oil coming out of dipstick hole

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toytron
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Re: oil coming out of dipstick hole

Post by toytron »

Dick, where in Iowa are you located? Are you on the Mississippi? I am not too far from the quad cities and there is a corvair club in the quad cities.

Ed Stevenson


Last edited by toytron on Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: oil coming out of dipstick hole

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dick2256 wrote: Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:05 pm the engine has set 3 days since it was last run I ran several cycles on each piston with the starter
the tech guys on Clarks corvair said to pull the heads and see what I can find they said I only had two good pistons and the rest are way to low
my problem is age I will be 85 in December and I enjoy running our river so I think I will go ahead and spend the money for a few more rides
still searching for a good motor here in Iowa

Yeah if it has been run recently then sounds like the cylinders/rings are worn out. The number 5 may be a broken piston or rings, or a valve issue, but, yeah with those comp readings and freshly oiled (run) things are not up to snuff.
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Re: oil coming out of dipstick hole

Post by dick2256 »

located in western Iowa Missouri river near Omaha
but I run on a small river the west nishabotna
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toytron
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Re: oil coming out of dipstick hole

Post by toytron »

Oh. Well I was hoping that you were near. I though that I would have been able to stop by and lend a hand.

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Re: oil coming out of dipstick hole

Post by dick2256 »

I'm could use some help I am to old to be trying to be a mechanic but I will work thru it somehow
back in the early 70s I bought an engine out of a junk yard and did a complete overhaul
it was a 1964 110hp
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Re: oil coming out of dipstick hole

Post by dick2256 »

ok I took TerribleTeds advice and removed the valve covers and cranked all of the rocker arms so they were loose here are my new readings
1= 95#
2= 165#
3= 110#
4=65# (number 4 has a valve issue it was reading about 45# and I tapped it by the spring and then held 65#)
5= 160#
6=145#
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Re: oil coming out of dipstick hole

Post by bbodie52 »

dick2256 wrote:ok here are the results of the compression test
1=75#
2=150#
3=135#
4=90#
5= 0#
6=95#

ok I took TerribleTeds advice and removed the valve covers and cranked all of the rocker arms so they were loose here are my new readings
1= 95#
2= 165#
3= 110#
4=65# (number 4 has a valve issue it was reading about 45# and I tapped it by the spring and then held 65#)
5= 160#
6=145#
Looks like a careful valve adjustment might resolve much of your engine problem! Cylinder #5 has returned from the dead!
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Re: oil coming out of dipstick hole

Post by 64powerglide »


Watch this video Dave has on youtube and adjust the valves as he says.
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Re: oil coming out of dipstick hole

Post by terribleted »

Hmmm interesting results. Looks as if you have valve sealing issues and MAYBE not so much compression ring cylinder wear. It is not unusual for these engines to give varying compression test results depending on recent operation and oil distribution on the rings. They tend to test low after they have been sitting. The results you give are after approximately the same number of crankshaft rotations? (compression may pump higher with more rotations...I generally try to get 5-6 compressions on each tested cylinder for each reading) I assume all the plugs were removed during the compression testing and that the throttle was held wide open as well. Plugs in place can cause variation. This test should be done with the throttles held wide open.

You as you noted you have an issue in #4 (not sealing) (could be a loose valve seat or valve sticking or bent). It seems something was stuck in #5 causing it to not seal. If there was a hole in the #5 piston playing with the valves would of course have zero effect. If it was my engine I would first try a running valve adjustment. If I still had bad readings I would then remove and rebuild the heads, re-install and see what I had. These type of symptoms are usually caused by sticky lifters, valves sticking, or badly worn valve guides (causing bind) or loose valve seats. While the heads are off the cylinder bores can be easily inspected for signs of wear or bad ring issues. Further disassembly might be warranted depending on how they looked.
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Re: oil coming out of dipstick hole

Post by dick2256 »

can I set the valves with a feeler gage and then tighten up a 1/2 a turn after that or
what ever is recommended
it seems to me as I tighten the one valve on number 4 it increases the pressure(the intake)
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Re: oil coming out of dipstick hole

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I prefer to adjust the valves running. Take an extra valve cover and cut the center raised section out of it making 2 partial short valve covers. Install them on both sides of the engine with 1/2 gaskets. Your 5/8 socket should fit to the rocker adjusting nuts just above the partial valve cover. You must have an initial valve adjustment that is not totally loose. This can be accomplished by rotating the crankshaft while watching the valves. Once a valve has opened and then closed you need to make sure that that valve is not flopping all over. Just make it so there is no slop plus maybe 1/4 turn more. Once all valves are like this start the engine. Any noisy clattery valve can be slowly tightened until it is are just quiet. Let engine warm to operating temp. Loosen each valve until clatter is just heard. Wait to see if clatter stops (20-30 secs). If so loosen until it clatters again. once the valve has a constant slight clatter tighten it until the clatter stops and then slowly turn in an additional 1/4 turn. repeat for all valves. Go around again and slowly tighten each an additional 1/8 turn. Go around again and add another 1/8 turn. Repeat....read below first....until you get to your final adjustment. You want 1 full turn total on STOCK FACTORY lifters as per the shop manual. In reality many replacement lifters will not take this much pre-load before they start holding the valve open and the engine starts to bog. If you find as you are adjusting that the engine starts to bog out you may have reached the pre-load limits for the lifter installed. I have found that many small block Chevy lifters commonly used as replacements in Corvair motors will not take more than 3/8-1/2 of a turn. Once I find a happy spot for such lifters I adjust them all the same. If I can get 1 turn in I use it.

In your case once the lifters are adjusted evenly, repeat compression tests. If you are lucky things will be reasonable and more even:)
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
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Re: oil coming out of dipstick hole

Post by terribleted »

dick2256 wrote: Fri Apr 14, 2017 10:53 am can I set the valves with a feeler gage and then tighten up a 1/2 a turn after that or
what ever is recommended
it seems to me as I tighten the one valve on number 4 it increases the pressure(the intake)
This might work as a basic starting point as long as you ensure that the valve is not being pushed by the camshaft when you set your preload. Rotate the crank and watch the valve open and then close so you are sure it is not active before you make your adjustment. With factory lifters 1/2 turn will be loose. With some replacement lifters 1/2 turn may be too tight causing valves to be held open.

Concerning your #4 comment. If the valve was so loose that it was not opening and therefore not allowing the engine to draw in a good charge of air to be compressed then tightening it could easily increase compression.
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Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
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Re: oil coming out of dipstick hole

Post by 64powerglide »

When I bought my 64 110 I watched Dave's video on how to install the head and adjust the valves cold. I did what he said with a feeler gauge, I then watched a video on how to readjust them hot. I ordered a 1/3 valve cover & gasket from Clark's & did the hot adjustment & I think it said loosen them until it starts to click then tighten until the click stops then give them another 1/4 turn tighter. This 64 I have runs like new & I haven't had to readjust anything since I did it 4 years ago & it has been my daily driver except for the winter of 2015.
This is a video Rafee did.
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Re: oil coming out of dipstick hole

Post by dick2256 »

I tried to watch that today but was taking to long to load
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Re: oil coming out of dipstick hole

Post by dick2256 »

I reset the valves like Ted said to do and I am not pumping oil out of the dipstick hole and there was no smoke or steam coming out of the
crankcase vent tube
engine responded real good but I was only reading 2000rpm on my cheap china tack so I have another tack I will try
I liked the idea of having a half of a valve cover but my prop was pulling the oil out of the open cover
Going to have some lunch and then go pull the plugs and check the compression after I try my other tack
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Re: oil coming out of dipstick hole

Post by terribleted »

For a valve adjusting covers for your rig (without removing the prop) you could take corvair valve covers and cut holes above each rocker nut (or cut out the center part of the face leaving the top, bottom, and ends intact). This type cover would allow adjustment and minimize oil blow. Was not thinking about a prop rushing air past the engine;)
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/

Located in Snellville, Georgia
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