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Those are honed. I took the picture right after I honed them.flat6_musik wrote:If they are cratered out where the rubber cups ride, forget it. I might give it a go otherwise. You need to run a hone through them before you add the new kit stuff. I've even gone inside there with a piece of fine sandpaper to remove small areas of rust. It's a crapshoot though, whether they'll be leak-free.
Those really aren't lookin' like too hot of a starting point from here........
Yes, I like that style better but both snap-on and matco only had the ball type in the size I needed. I have a small flat hone but t was slightly too large for this... Like you said it was about 6$ each for the kits as opposed to whatever Clark is charging for a whole w/c.tiger13 wrote:I personally don't use a ball hone to do wheel cylinders. I like to use the ones with the flat stones on them, I find they have a tendency to leave a much nicer finished surface when your done. Be sure to keep the hone wet with brake fluid while you are honing. And considering that "most" of the deeper pitting is centered in the middle of the cylinder where the spring would be compressed, you MAY get very lucky here. The cost of a rebuild kit is cheap enough to give it a try, but I would go back over them with a flat stoned hone if it were me.
Yes sir, I'm already re-plumbing the whole car. It's not worth the risk.bbodie52 wrote:If corrosion has eaten away that much of the wheel cylinders, you might want to consider the possibility of internal damage to the steel brake lines as well. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and over time absorbs and holds water molecules, which can result in the corrosion and pitting you have witnessed in your wheel cylinders. Internal damage and decay may have also occurred in your brake lines, which can burst without warning. The risk is somewhat worse in the 1961 Models which cannot be fitted with the dual master cylinder that was incorporated into the Corvair in 1967. A burst brake line anywhere leaves you only with the cable-operated rear brakes.