First look at my 64 MSC - AKA 'My God, what have I done!"

[Nickshu]

Thanks for the advice Scott. Steve Goodman is nearby in Denver, maybe I'll ship my carb to him for a rebuild. I ordered a rebuild kit from Clarks but maybe better to let a "pro" do it.

I did order a fuel pressure regulator but after your comments maybe I should not install. Opinions seemed to be mixed on this topic.

Yes my rubber "t" was rotted. Photo below of my tank removal yesterday...yuck!

[bbodie52]

Since you already ordered the Carter YH book by Bob Helt and a rebuild kit from Clark's, why not look over the kit and the book and then decide if you want to give it a shot and rebuild the carburetor yourself. Maybe you will be one of those with the "magic touch"!

[Scott V]

Thanks for the advice Scott. Steve Goodman is nearby in Denver, maybe I'll ship my carb to him for a rebuild. I ordered a rebuild kit from Clarks but maybe better to let a "pro" do it.

I did order a fuel pressure regulator but after your comments maybe I should not install. Opinions seemed to be mixed on this topic.

Yes my rubber "t" was rotted. Photo below of my tank removal yesterday...yuck!

there are a bunch of little things that need to be attended to on a old/worn out yh. sometimes its best to have a pro do it. im not saying that you wouldnt be able to do a nice job - but if you havent worked on a lot of yh carbs its hard to know what is right & what needs to be fixed.

bob helts book is great & with that & the factory shop manual maybe you want to give the carb rebuild a try. heck - if you dont get it right the worse that can happen is you send it off to a pro.

the factory return line does the same job as a fuel pressure regulator but you wont have another part hanging on the engine........just something else to fail or leak. :-)

the vent tube on your tank looks like its been repaired/modified. the factory stuff was soldered to the tank - not welded/brazed like yours. some turbo owners modify the fill tube & put a nipple on it for the return line. this gets rid of the factory rubber *t* & makes a cleaner/ez-er install.

-Scott V.

[Nickshu]

Well it would be nice to get rid of that T piece all together.

I ordered a whole new fuel tank from Clarks, along with $750 of other various little parts. So it begins! When I took out the fuel sender (which bench tested bad - gauge was not working) the tank is full of rust. Also don't you love the three hose clamps on the end of the fill tube hose? Someone tried to fit a universal hose, rather than the correct Corvair part, even with the three clamps on one end it still leaked like a sieve when filling up.

Considering a Por-15 fuel tank rust repair kit is $85 and a new tank is $164 it seemed like an easy decision just to buy a brand new tank and be done with it. Didn't make sense to me to spend over half of the cost of a new tank to put a "band aid" on it.

Today I stripped the fuel filler down to bare metal and primered it. Will paint it tomorrow. Lookin' good!

I may give the Carb a try. I have almost finished reading the YH book. Does not look too difficult but as you said I am sure there are little nuances that are not in the book.

[ral1963]

Since they changed the interior color it not not be applicable, but can you post a picture of your seat belts, if they are still in the car?

[Nickshu]

Seat belts are not original but a set of repros I just got off eBay are close to what original 64 belts look like.

[Am-Iron]

It is always good to learn about your car, I did my YH, but there are some things that Steve does that we would not think of. Most of the locals here run YH carbs. I think Steve runs a modified YH on his 3.0 Spyder. It looks like you have a great deal there!