Ball joint for FC/ what reamer to use?

[vanwyk4257]

I have verified that a '55-'57 chevy drop spindle will work on the FC after doing some research. It does however require having the lower ball joint reamed to properly fit the FC lower ball joint pin. Does anyone know if a standard 7-degree reamer is appropriate for this? I have found a great setup with 2" drop spindles and disc brakes and am committed to making this work on my '95.

[atwistedgrip]

I'm not sure what the proper reamer is... but let me know how it turns out.
I'm very interested in this mod and would like to do the same to my FC's.

[vanwyk4257]

Will do

[Vanman]

As long as the spindle retains the correct geometry, this would be super. I would die to replace my front drums with disks, just to get away from the wandering under med/heavy braking. Along with the benefit of drop spindles. Though I would have to replace the front springs as my van would be way to low for how I drive it.

[vanwyk4257]

I found a post elsewhere from someone who had done this conversion using Heidts spindles for a 55'57 chevy. They were able to bolt on the stock FC steering arms and all they had to modify was having the lower ball joint opening reamed at a local shop. I still haven't been able to find any more detail. I may just break down and buy a new balljoint and take it to a machine shop friend of mine to see if he can help me out. The thing I like about doing drop spindles instead of cutting coils is it doesn't screw up the front steering/suspension geometry. I have to imagine that these things aren't the best steering vehicles with the convoluted steering linkage stock, and I would assume any change in tie rod angle due to cutting coils has a pretty significant affect. The spindles I am looking into come from Speedway Motors. They work with 10.5" late 70's-80's GM disc brake setups. The kit with spindles and brakes runs $400. I am looking into the possibility of installing C5 brakes since I want to do a full C5 corvette rear suspension/brakes if feasible. I am also looking at the possibility of replacing the stock brake pedal/MC assembly with an aftermarket Wilwood setup that would hang from the dash and have two MC's with a balance bar mounted in reverse position to place them up behind the dash. I'm not wild about having the MC below the calipers, which I certainly would with my intended ride height. I know you can put a residual pressure valve in to prevent any fluid back flow, but it just seems like using a bandaid instead of treating the injury.
The reamers typically come in 7 degree of 10 degree varieties from what I have seen, I don't know if GM had a standard or not. I think the main issue is that because they're tapered, you need to not only have the proper taper, but have the machine shop dial in the reamer to the proper depth.

[Vanman]

Not even for a Chevy, but this is used on a VW Bug front end to flip the tie rods on a dropped bug. Gives you a idea about what is involved in doing what your talking about. Realy not much to it. I did notice he was doing a little crooked.

[vanwyk4257]

Speedway motors sells reamers, and I assume some of the circle track shops have them. I think the biggest challenge is jigging the spindle so that the reamer is perpendicular to the hole as you indicated.

[Vanman]

I bought the reamer for my Bug at Sears. You just need to know which it is. You could do it in a drill press, idealy. But with a straight steady hand it can be done by hand.

[vanwyk4257]

I have a friend with a machine shop and the guy I bought my van from is partners with an acquaintance from my car club, they have a really nice machine shop, so I really just need to figure out what reamer I need and one of them should be able to hook me up with the equipment to get it done.

[rodnokn6]

I found a post elsewhere from someone who had done this conversion using Heidts spindles for a 55'57 chevy. They were able to bolt on the stock FC steering arms and all they had to modify was having the lower ball joint opening reamed at a local shop. I still haven't been able to find any more detail. I may just break down and buy a new balljoint and take it to a machine shop friend of mine to see if he can help me out. The thing I like about doing drop spindles instead of cutting coils is it doesn't screw up the front steering/suspension geometry. I have to imagine that these things aren't the best steering vehicles with the convoluted steering linkage stock, and I would assume any change in tie rod angle due to cutting coils has a pretty significant affect. The spindles I am looking into come from Speedway Motors. They work with 10.5" late 70's-80's GM disc brake setups. The kit with spindles and brakes runs $400. I am looking into the possibility of installing C5 brakes since I want to do a full C5 corvette rear suspension/brakes if feasible. I am also looking at the possibility of replacing the stock brake pedal/MC assembly with an aftermarket Wilwood setup that would hang from the dash and have two MC's with a balance bar mounted in reverse position to place them up behind the dash. I'm not wild about having the MC below the calipers, which I certainly would with my intended ride height. I know you can put a residual pressure valve in to prevent any fluid back flow, but it just seems like using a bandaid instead of treating the injury.
The reamers typically come in 7 degree of 10 degree varieties from what I have seen, I don't know if GM had a standard or not. I think the main issue is that because they're tapered, you need to not only have the proper taper, but have the machine shop dial in the reamer to the proper depth.

Thanx for the great thread .I am very interested in doing exactly this upgrade I believe I read the same post @ corvaircenterforum . I believe it talks about making a special extension to run the reamer thru the upper spindle hole to the lower spindle hole . If you have any sucsess with this please post some info/ pics thanx again and good luck...

[vanwyk4257]

I will be sure to report back once I can find something out. For now I'm focused on getting it running so it can move in and out of the garage under it's own power. Once I get the engine running I'll focus my attention on the suspension and brakes. Given how busy I am with work and family (son playing basketball right now every weekend) it will probably be a while...

[rodnokn6]

It is therefor possible that I tackle this upgrade before you do. My truck has its drivetrain out and the complete front suspension out. I am in the process of getting everything to the powder coater and rebuilding the front suspension. I am quite sure it has never been disassembled ( riveted on ball joints, original delco shocks, FROZEN bolts etc. etc. etc.) I will not drive this truck without disk brakes up front.... (been there done that) If I make progress ahead of you I'll share what I learn...

[Vanman]

I will not drive this truck without disk brakes up front.... (been there done that)

Your no fun. Front drums are part of what make driving my van so interesting, or is that, such a pain in the azz? Its also why no one else gets to drive my van. Im just messing about making it fun, but it deffinetly makes you pay attention to say the least. Especialy when I live in the Chicago burbs and people have not one ounce of respect for others on the road, especialy a 47 year old van with 4 wheel drum brakes. It can stop, its the pulling that gets my heart going sometimes, which is why I want to do a disk setup so badly. However lack of depth of my wallet keeps this a distant option right now.

But I am anxiously waiting to hear back about this, and if someone does this, document what you did, and take pics also if you could, it would help alot of FC owners out there. Even if someone didnt want the drop spindles, just use stock height spindles and discs.

[vanwyk4257]

It is therefor possible that I tackle this upgrade before you do. My truck has its drivetrain out and the complete front suspension out. I am in the process of getting everything to the powder coater and rebuilding the front suspension. I am quite sure it has never been disassembled ( riveted on ball joints, original delco shocks, FROZEN bolts etc. etc. etc.) I will not drive this truck without disk brakes up front.... (been there done that) If I make progress ahead of you I'll share what I learn...

I did some checking around on other forums knowing that the lower ball joints are shared with many of the 60's full size chevy's and the '63-82 corvettes. I have been told that it should be a 7 degree taper.
The way my schedule is you will definitely get to it before I do, so I will follow your progress!

[gwydionjhr]

Hey guys.

I was the one that pioneered the Tri-5 Drop Spindle set up. Unfortuneately I don't know the specs on the FC lower ball joint, as I was re-doing the entire front end and had a loose example to take to the machine shop as a reference.

Here's a shot of the jig for reaming out the lower ball joint hole.



Hope this helps!

[rodnokn6]

Hey guys.

I was the one that pioneered the Tri-5 Drop Spindle set up. Unfortuneately I don't know the specs on the FC lower ball joint, as I was re-doing the entire front end and had a loose example to take to the machine shop as a reference.

Here's a shot of the jig for reaming out the lower ball joint hole.



Hope this helps!

BRAVO! Thanx for the pics and the info. How does your truck ride ? how low is it ? are the springs stock height ? What master cylinder are you running??? Thanx again...