new from Green Bay

[salmon31]

Hi,

Not new to Corvairs exactly. Owned a 1960 late model, a 1964 monza convert, and a 1969 all in around those same years. Retired and decided to relive my youth, LOL. So I found a 1965 Monza convert and spent the last two years welding, welding, welding. (Midwest salty car). So, done welding and still have lots to do. Got most everything working and trying to get the engine running right next.

It starts and runs and idles but missing badly. Bought a shop manual from Clarks and did all the engine tune section. So far I've done compression test, good all 123 to 128psi. Replaced all the vacuum lines. New plugs, points, rotor, cap, plug wires. Set the dwell and timing. Pulled the tank (had to anyway for welding)and cleaned it out along with all new fuel lines and filters.

Where I'm at, knowing I need to probably rebuild carbs next: I get almost no vacuum on the driver side and a wildly moving needle on the pass side at idle. When I increase RPM I can get about 8-10" on both sides. Did the trick of spraying carb cleaner around the carbs, no change in RPM. I even sprayed starting fluid against my better judgement and still no RPM change.

When I try and adjust the carb mixture screws I get very little response on either carb. I can't get the idle to change much but if I close the needles and it will die. I ran it up and down the road for a while and pulled the plugs. All plugs on driver side look good nice and tan. But on the pass side they are all black.
So are my black plugs on one side just another indication I need to rebuild at least that carb? This car did sit idle for several years I think and guessing there's varnish and crud in the carbs.

Please bear in mind that although I have a lot of tools and a car lift in my garage I am on SS and don't have many funds available to buy stuff and SEE if it helps.

Nice meeting all of you and thanks for any help I get.

[aslondon]

I'd rebuild the carbs. I just went through this with my 65. I put off rebuilding the carbs - hoping it was something else but NOPE! Very very simple job to rebuild them. Buy complete kits from clarks and take your time. Best advice I got was do one at a time so you have a reference point if you get stuck. I would also make sure you replace the phenolic insulators at the base of each carb and use new gaskets (2 on each )

Al

[cad-kid]

to the site from Central WI!

[salmon31]

So Al, I know you can't see what I got. But, You think I can get buy with the minor kit and new base gaskets? Those delux kits are pricy.
Thanks, George

[bbodie52]

Welcome to the Corvair Forum!

One possibility you might consider would be joining a local club chapter of CORSA (Corvair Society of America). There are four CORSA club chapters in Wisconsin, and the closest to Green Bay appears to be about 40-50 miles from you, around the Lake Winnebago area. Joining a CORSA chapter offers the opportunity of meeting and socializing with like-minded experienced Corvair owners. This can offer learning opportunities, and Corvair owners will often assist each other with troubleshooting and with making repairs on member's cars. The meetings and other social events can also make the hobby much-more enjoyable.

I do not have any personal experience with this club chapter. Since these CORSA chapters are all volunteer organizations, the degree of activity and interest depends on the members. I did notice that the website activity calendar is out of date (2012) so I'm not sure what you will find in this club. I would suggest making a few phone calls at the numbers listed below to see what such an initial contact will tell you. Here is some chapter information, if you are interested...

CORSA Chapter Locator - North East Wisconsin Corvair

Chapter ID: 541
Organization Name: North East Wisconsin Corvair
Street Address (Primary): 1274 E. Shady Lane, Neenah, WI 54956

North East Wisconsin Corvair Club
2251 Vinland Road
Oshkosh, WI 54901-1853

President: Gary DeNamur, (920) 743-4178
Vice President: Mike Lynch, (920) 722-1225
Treasurer: Ron Arndt, (920) 766-1539
Activities: Levi Roskom, (920) 494-3293
Membership: Mary Arndt, (920) 766-1539
Publicity: Maria Jaloszynski: (920) 733-3434
Director at Large: Don Frank, (920) 766-5403
Newsletter Editor: Dee Lynch, (920) 722-1225
Newsletter Name: The Spyder Web
Website: http://www.newcc.weebly.com
Email (Primary): arndt2205@sbcglobal.net

The editor for the North East Wisconsin Corvair Club's The Spyder Web printed newsletter is Dee Lynch.
Prospective members should contact her for two complimentary issues.

North East Wisconsin Corvair Club
C/O Editor Dee Lynch
1274 East Shady Lane
Neenah, WI 54956
(920) 722-1225

E-mail: mdlynch1274@yahoo.com

[salmon31]

Thanks for that CORSA info Brad, I'll give it a try

[bbodie52]

The greatest advantage to rebuilding the carburetors seems to come from chemically cleaning (carburetor parts dip) and flushing the passages that can become blocked from time-to-time. The paper gaskets may not be reusable, and the accelerator pump boot can get brittle and worn. And carefully checking the floats for leaks, and adjusting the float level and other carb adjustments tends to get everything right (there are really no shortcuts to this process). The carburetor base insulators and gaskets are important and often not reusable. The result of the effort is often well-worth the trouble.

The fact that your idle mixture screws are generally unresponsive can be a clue indicating clogged or partially clogged passages. Also check the vacuum break hoses and diaphragms for leaks.



Here are some guides that should prove helpful...

DELCO ROCHESTER - Models H, HV Carburetor Service Manual.pdf

DELCO ROCHESTER - Models H, HV Carburetor Service Manual

(1.79 MiB) Downloaded 201 times

1965 Corvair Chassis Shop Manual - SECTION 6 - ENGINE TUNE-UP.pdf

1965 Corvair Chassis Shop Manual - SECTION 6 - ENGINE TUNE-UP

(2.92 MiB) Downloaded 122 times

1965 Corvair Chassis Shop Manual - SECTION 6M - ENGINE FUEL.pdf

1965 Corvair Chassis Shop Manual - SECTION 6M - ENGINE FUEL

(8.87 MiB) Downloaded 90 times

1965 Corvair Chassis Shop Manual - SECTION 6Y - ENGINE ELECTRICAL.pdf

1965 Corvair Chassis Shop Manual - SECTION 6Y - ENGINE ELECTRICAL

(8.51 MiB) Downloaded 184 times

This link will guide you to many useful Corvair-related websites, including a couple that will provide you with a downloadable Corvair-related computer-based technical library of shop manuals, supplements, technical guides, etc. in Adobe Reader (.pdf) format at no cost.

Common and Useful Corvair Websites

Corvair Forum viewtopic.php?f=225&t=6007

[salmon31]

Ok, so I took off the carbs and cleaned them. Never saw anything so DIRTY inside. Noticed a couple of things: the floats are different from side to side. One has a spring on it and the other does not. The one that doesn't have a spring doesn't have the hole to install one either. How do I handle that? Have to buy two new floats? And which kind would I get, no listing for two different kinds. There was only the spacer under the carbs, no gaskets, spacer looked good. I made four gaskets and put on when I reinstalled them. The book shows a power enrichment needle, I'm not sure about that? I can see some brass where I think it should be but it won't come out and carb cleaner won't drain out of it, looks like a tiny hole there in the brass, but very hard for me to see down a half inch'ish. Its under the venture cluster, right?

Put it all back together and huge difference. Runs much better but still not right. I knew I'd have to clean everything anyway so decided to get that part done while saving to afford carb kits, base gaskets and balancer just to see if it would help, it did, a lot! I did all the adjustments in the book to and hope that by installing the carb kits some of them at least will only have to be checked. My mixture screws now do a little bit to. Still no vacuum at idle to speak of, maybe up to 5 in, raise RPM to 1500 and I get 10-15 in fairly steady. Is that anything like normal? Its a 4 speed so no modulator. I'm sure nothing is leaking air in unless something is cracked in the intake part of the head.

[bbodie52]

The Delco Rochester Models H, HV Carburetor Service Manual I attached in my earlier post describes this spring and the float assembly in detail on page 3. Your earlier float design will likely work OK. You would have to obtain a used float and spring assembly from a 1964 or later carburetor to substitute the correct unit.

It is possible that the two carburetors are not an exact match. The float may have been replaced, or the entire carburetor may have been replaced with a carburetor from an earlier model. There are subtle differences in different model years. For example, the radial venturi cluster in early years had equal spacing between the arms, while in later years they were staggered.

EARLY LATE

Tech Article

Carburetor Year Identification

http://www.northtexascorvair.org/tech1/octtech1.htm

If the carburetors are mismatched, the differences may not be significant or noticeable. The design changes and the reasons for the changes are described in the Delco-Rochester manual. You will have to decide if the mismatches between the two carburetors are significant or minor.

The 1964 and later Model HV carburetors use a torsion spring to increase the holding power of the float needle against the float needle seat. The float assist spring was added to maintain a constant fuel level during extreme rough road operation. Changes in the float pontoons and hanger were necessary with the addition of the torsion assist spring. The float torsion assist spring should not be used on earlier models as float settings and float levels differ.

Power Enrichment Needle...


http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... ow_page=55

[salmon31]

You are very helpful, thanks.

There was no power enrichment needles in either carb. I was very careful during disassembly on a white piece of poster board, I'm sure I didn't lose any parts. I'm also pretty sure neither acc pump is working though the cups do look good. Is there supposed to be a check ball under the pump? Or does the pump discharge needle take care of that. By the way I am studying the carb manual But the drawings are so blurry and I'm not real bright so I don't get everything. I just want to make sure I order everything I need and nothing I don't first try. I just can't spend over a hundred on those super delux rebuild kits.

The metal tags are still on the carbs, WOW, HUH?. Both are 7025023 but the numbers under that are different, one is FS, or F5 with ABG or ?BG. The other is a backwards C or 9 S, or ?S, followed by again ABG or "something" BG. So they are different in some way. I found the 7025023 number in the manual link you gave me as that they are HV. Can't find anything about the other numbers though I'm sure they mean something.

[bbodie52]

Carburetor ID Tag (2).jpg.png (140.41 KiB) Viewed 1199 times

7025023 CARBURETOR