Choke issues

[aslondon]

Well, I finally got our "new" 65 Monza convertible started and idling OK. Have kind of an issue with the right choke. The left appears to operate just as designed - but the right seems to push instead of pull. Is that an indicator that the bimetallic spring has given up?

Al

[Jerry Whitt]

When you say "push instead of pull", not at all clear what you mean. Can you give a picture?

[aslondon]

on the left carb, the choke rod coming from the choke spring attached below the shroud pulls the choke flap off. You can feel the rod being pulled downward. On the right carb, the choke rod is actually being pushed upward by the choke spring. make better sense?

Al

[Jerry Whitt]

When cold, the coiled spring on the lower portion of the head should push the choke link upward, closing the choke plate. When the car starts, the choke pull off, (vacuum operated)
should pull the choke plate open, just a little. !/8th of an inch would be a good place to start. As the engine warms up, the coiled spring changes shape, allowing less pressure on the choke link. Gradually, as it warms, the coil moves to normal run operation. The choke plates should then be in full open position.

On the other side of the carburetor is the fast idle cam. When cold, and the accelerator linkage is depressed, the choke plate closes, another link pulls the fast idle cam into
position. As with the choke plate, the linkage will allow the fast idle cam to change to lower steps as the engine warms up.

[terribleted]

When the engine is cold the choke rod should push the chock closed. When the engine is warm enough the choke spring will shrink there by pulling the choke lever down and opening the choke. You need to make sure both choke rods are adjusted properly and then start and warm up the cold engine and watch the chokes for proper operation. I do not think I have ever seen a failed choke unit (stuck, loose, mis-assembled, but not failed).

Chokes must be set with the engine stone cold...over night cool down preferred. The shop manual outlines the following procedure: Remove choke rod from choke clip. Hold choke clip toward closed and operate the throttle fully open by hand to ensure that the choke is fully closed (lever not effected by choke steps). Hold the choke lever in this position and turn choke rod to and adjustment where the rod lines up with the hole in the choke lever. Adjust the choke rod out 2 additional turns and re-install it to the lever. Repeat procedure for the other carburetor. Start car and let warm up when the car is fully warm the chokes should be held fully open by the choke rods. Be advised that the left choke will generally open first as the left side seems to heat up first. (you must operate the throttle a couple times during this warm up to let the choke levers come off their fast idle steps). After about 10-15 mins at idle the engine should be evenly warm enough to see both chokes fully open. If on choke is still holding its choke plate closed and that side of the engine is warm or hot (feel the shrouding below the carbs to see) the choke may be failed. If both sides of the engine are not similarly hot, the cool side may still be choked (which would be normal as far as the choke itself is concerned). This indicates a carb problem on the colder side of the engine such as blocked jet or idle passages or low or no fuel flow.

[davemotohead]

I always screw the choke rod in as far as I can to were the spring barely holds the choke closed when cold but opens fully when hot,the less closed pressure the better IMO.

[aslondon]

Thank you for all the help. It is the right one I suspect as being bad. Ive been soaking the choke rod coupling in blaster before I start twisting on them.

Al