starting bodywork

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Mathew Gibson
Posts: 7
Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2010 9:56 am

starting bodywork

Post by Mathew Gibson »

Here is a car i have rescued from a field. Finally have the money to start the paint job.
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mlevair
Posts: 189
Joined: Tue Dec 22, 2009 7:47 pm

Re: starting bodywork

Post by mlevair »

nice! :tu:
Michael LeVeque
LeVair Performance & Restoration
Anderson,IN
765-617-9307
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flat6_musik
Posts: 2659
Joined: Sun Apr 04, 2010 10:03 am
Location: Hesperia, CA

Re: starting bodywork

Post by flat6_musik »

Cool!.....looks like you're getting somewhat close. Do you still have rust areas to cut out and replace?
bjbuchanan
Posts: 27
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2010 10:02 am

Re: starting bodywork

Post by bjbuchanan »

Looks awesome keep it up
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terribleted
Posts: 4584
Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2010 2:36 pm
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Re: starting bodywork

Post by terribleted »

I am assuming that these pictures depict what the car looks like before you start working on it?? Please tell me that you did not do any of this primer etc. into the old crusty rust under it finish. If you did I strongly suggest you start over. A car in this condition really must be stripped to the bare metal in order to get an even lasting final finish. The rust that I can see in the photos is enough for me to tell that there is almost certainly corrosion under that old paint that will surface through whatever you apply over it. I hate to see someone spend time and money for less than optimal results.

It does not take that much work to strip it then fix it then paint it when compare to fixing it painting it , fixing it, painting and finally stripping it and doing it right. Body work is a lot of work, best to do it once only. Here in Atlanta you can farm out the stripping to a couple different media blasters (jambs and exterior stripped for around $600-800 food for thought if you are low on elbow grease and have the cash to spare). The paint can be removed to the metal with sandpapers and more of that elbow grease, for heavily shaped areas (door jambs, corners etc.) aircraft stripper is useful and available at auto paint stores by the gallon or in spray cans for small areas (be careful with this stuff, protect anything you do not want ruined and clean residue off thoroughly after). Prime any bare metal as soon as possible after stripping (the same day is best as flash rust can reform on the surface for moisture in the air in a short time) . After stripping and priming then fix the rust holes and do any needed bodywork.
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/

Located in Snellville, Georgia
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Mike J
Posts: 131
Joined: Mon Jan 11, 2010 6:04 pm
Location: Nor-Cal - Rescue, CA

Re: starting bodywork

Post by Mike J »

Nice start ... going Red I assume? It will be nice when you finish it up.
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mlevair
Posts: 189
Joined: Tue Dec 22, 2009 7:47 pm

Re: starting bodywork

Post by mlevair »

Matt just told me he welded in metal in all the rusty spots. I can hardly wait to se the finished car as he got it from me.
Michael LeVeque
LeVair Performance & Restoration
Anderson,IN
765-617-9307
4carbcorvair
Corvair of the Month
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Joined: Fri Dec 11, 2009 5:50 am
Location: Maine

Re: starting bodywork

Post by 4carbcorvair »

:cool: :tu:
1966 Corsa convertible, 140, 4sp.
1965 Monza Convertible, 110, PG.

Dirigo Corvair group.
http://www.dirigocorvairs.net/
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flat6_musik
Posts: 2659
Joined: Sun Apr 04, 2010 10:03 am
Location: Hesperia, CA

Re: starting bodywork

Post by flat6_musik »

I love seeing aftermarket mini-gauges in a Corsa dash! :checkeredflag:
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