Weekend Job Update

[kumquatbob]

Hi Folks,
The Kumquat is progressing. Every job is an adventure.
All the lower tin is on with the new pushrod tube O-rings installed. (Thanks, I read all the old posts about that). Just put in the engine oil.
The shift clevis was very sloppy, so I ordered another one from Clarks. The holes were wallowed out some, but the rubber part is still OK. Trying to be more accurate with the adjustment, I ordered the nylon lined unit. Well, the shafts are not lined up well at all and I cannot get the pin in without pliers, too stiff. I guess the factory figured in a little wiggle room for it. We don't want a bind on the shaft bushing, so Plan B tomorrow. (there are a lot of posts about this, too. Thanks). I also forgot to order a shaft seal so now I wait for that.
The clutch cable was rubbing on the side of the hole out of the tunnel, so I put a piece of fuel hose over that point. Remember this was a dune buggy and the bottom got the "heck" smashed out of it. All the boots were gone and the section of the tunnel where they were supposed to go was wasted, everything was rubbing. All good now.
Good news: the heater fan works! I blew out all the rest of the mouse mess into a bag. I did put some screens on the engine shroud where the heater hoses attach, in case some critters get in there they can't get up into the fan anymore. (bellows failure). My Dad had blocked off the 'fresh air' duct at the engine shroud for max cooling in the desert. A 1-pound Folger's coffee can fits perfectly (4") inside the hose, and you can keep the hose on for looks or convert it back later if needed. I left it all on due to needing heat at my feet in the winter, (no top). Sure don't need a defroster.
Thanks everyone for the tips.
Bob

[jimbrandberg]

I enjoy reading about this project.
The view from the rear is interesting with the cut-out for a turbo exhaust and the "dog legs" for the air grille modified so the lower body line goes straight across.
It's funny that my mind went straight to thinking it's a 63 because of the tail lights.
The cool factor goes way up knowing the undercarriage got bent up while being used and abused.

I'd like to see how the rear wheel wells were modified.

[guthrie1068]

Can you take a pic of the trailer hitch mounting for me?

[kumquatbob]

Thanks for the comments,
Chad, here are your pics of a Corvair trailer hitch. Dad made this mainly for towing parade floats (never overheats), also for towing a tiny trailer with our camping gear. it also is very high due to the monster tires on the back. But that's how it's mounted. He even trimmed out the plate frame to cover the bolts. I wish I could ask him about Hatfield.
I was wondering about the back body as well, Jim. I had to look at a regular one to see how he did it. Dad was self-proclaimed, "My body work isn't worth beans" he would always say. I inherited that gene. It is actually the patience you need. He was mechanical, if it didn't do anything what's the point.
Bob

[guthrie1068]

Thank you for putting those pictures up, I bought a similar hitch and have been looking for pictures of how it was mounted. I appreciate it!!

[kumquatbob]

Hi, Folks,
Got the shifter problems sorted and now have a Question: IS or IS-NOT the trans (4 speed) fluid shared with the differential. The manuals show separate capacities. I am changing the shifter shaft seal and might as well change the fluid. The trans does have a drain plug, and the cute red plastic label on the filler plug. . I read Bob Helt's book and No mention of shared fluid.
Hey, even the back-up lights work!
Thanks, Bob

[jimbrandberg]

Yes they share the oil but it's a slow process so it's best to fill them both.
I think drain plugs mean '62 and earlier.
It's good to have GL-4 gear oil to help protect the brass parts in the transmission. Commonly available GL-5 doesn't have that. It's good to have Hypoid for the smear of the ring and pinion. Red Line MT-90 may not have that.
I've been buying Brad Penn GL-4 80/90 on Ebay 12 quarts at a time but you can buy less.
If someone wants synthetic I've been buying Amsoil, there's some sort of a classic blend. I think it's a 75/something viscosity. I got a guy who comes by this area once a week and we can shoot the breeze about the old days in SCCA road racing. Looks like the hardware store has Amsoil now too.
In a 65 and earlier you might get by with 4 quarts. 66 and later you probably need 5.

[66vairguy]

Yes they share the oil but it's a slow process so it's best to fill them both.
I think drain plugs mean '62 and earlier.
It's good to have GL-4 gear oil to help protect the brass parts in the transmission. Commonly available GL-5 doesn't have that. It's good to have Hypoid for the smear of the ring and pinion. Red Line MT-90 may not have that.
I've been buying Brad Penn GL-4 80/90 on Ebay 12 quarts at a time but you can buy less.
If someone wants synthetic I've been buying Amsoil, there's some sort of a classic blend. I think it's a 75/something viscosity. I got a guy who comes by this area once a week and we can shoot the breeze about the old days in SCCA road racing. Looks like the hardware store has Amsoil now too.
In a 65 and earlier you might get by with 4 quarts. 66 and later you probably need 5.

Per Jim's suggestion I ordered Brad Penn GL-4 80/90, although it is now called "Penn Grade". You can order it on Amazon.

It has a good rating and my cars shifted better vs. using the common Sta-Lube 85/90.

[RexJohnson]

'63 was the last year for drain plugs in the trans and diff.

[kumquatbob]

More mysteries on the K.
The differential housing HAS a drain plug, a flat with threaded holes for cross spring and a plugged boss for a dipstick ('64?). Dad put in the 3.89 gearset for the big tires.
The trans is probably '63 since it's got a drain. Stamped= P0702. Good for me, both counts.
I never heard of a differential dip stick before. These posts are great.

The measured heights of the Trans and Diff Fillers are exactly the same height from the ground, so it doesn't matter about any shared oil being siphoned. (As long as it's the same).

The side cover bolts were quite loose, maybe my leak. I cleaned the whole drive train dry so any leaks will show. The trans was only low 1/4 inch. Same with the differential.
Bob

[66vairguy]

Bob -- As mentioned before --- when filling check BOTH fill plugs, and more than once as the lube SLOOOOWLY transfers from one side to the other during filling.

Nice have a 64 case, now all you need is the rest of the "leaf spring" suspension.

Years ago a fellow put the 64 rear suspension in his wagon and the front suspension from a LM (bolts right in) because it has the biggest front sway bar. He moved the EM spindles to the LM suspension arms (to keep the brakes and track EM). He took the car to an autocross and did very well with it.

[kumquatbob]

I just looked at some of Dad's notes on the Kumquat and found it is a 3.65 first gear he put in a '63 tranny. Also, quick shift kit and the quick steering arms plus Metallic brake shoes. I guess that means I need to get a 7/8-inch master cylinder (frozen solid). Man, you guys know your stuff.
The trans axle is from a '64 Powerglide car, that explains the case. he must have put in the drain plug and the dipstick delete.
Yes, the brakes come last, as soon as I figure out the front turn signals won't blink.
Bob

[RexJohnson]

A PG diff would not have a place for the clutch fork to pivot from. It would also have an air vent to the rear of the top cover for the convertor. I'm sure that your dad could've figured out the fork pivot but I would think that he would have wrote a tech article on how to do it?

[jimbrandberg]

The differential dipstick was only on 64 and 65s.

[kumquatbob]

Thanks, I got a little carried away with my small amount of knowledge on these things. PG bell housings of course would be different. You are right Rex, if Dad didn't have one to use, he would have figured it out.
I did figure out the turn signal switch is bad from Brad Bodie's great wiring diagrams. That is the best description of how it works I have ever seen. I worked at Chevrolet for 20 years doing wiring, but didn't know the wire colors. The Kumquat is a mix of "63 & '64 stuff. It is cool not having to pull the steering wheel to diagnose the switch. I will be doing an autopsy on it.
I also figured out from posts why I only have one heater fan speed. Dad did a defogger delete which included the place where the resistor goes, along with all the ducting, and wiring. (High only).
Just put the in-the-car tunnel cover back on. Remember the gas tank is only 1/2 inch away under them screws!
This is getting fun (now all the cleaning underneath is done).
[Fun fact: early PG Novas Had a converter with fins all over it instead of a cooler. The bell housing had big holes in it as well as a lower pan with an exit duct built in].
You guys are keeping me on the right path.
Thanks,
Bob

[kumquatbob]

4/15/25
Even more fun, I started up the Kumquat engine today! Last ran June 2013! It took me an hour to get the gas back to the carbs. I had to use all my tools. The vacuum pump to get gas to the fuel pump, then take all the lines off and then crank the engine to get it primed. It only had about 3 inches of vacuum. (Normal?). That took making a whole bunch of different sized tubes. Then siphon gas through to the carbs. Cranking it, the right carb was leaking at the brand-new line. It turned out to be the fitting on the carb, which I stole another off my spare engine. It then started, but it ran terrible, popping and dying. There was a bad knock from the cylinder that I had un-stuck a valve and replaced a broken pushrod. I pulled the valve cover, but it seemed OK, just a little spongy on the exhaust hydro lifter. I put it back remembering someone telling me on the forum that sometimes it takes awhile for them to pump up. I hated running it like that but something else had to be wrong. Wait, what's the firing order? Yep, 4 and 6 were switched in all my futzing. Then it fired up right. After a couple of minutes, the lifter pumped up and the popping stopped completely!
Man, that is a strong engine! Has a wicked lope to it with the Turbo cam. Remember the Turbo engines have less compression than this one. Dad told me once that you can shorten the cylinders a little for even more, don't know about this engine. (Factory 110 HP-9.0/1, 150 LB cold cranking).
Then the checklist:
Tach, check.
Oil light, check.
Gen light, check.
Temp Gauge, check, (250 degrees).
Gas gauge, check.
Alternator, 14.1 volts, check.
Chokes, minor adjustment, check.
Idle mix & speed adjustment, check.
*Vacuum gauge, inop*.
*Damper doors, barely open*.
Mufflers, loud, check.
The distributor was never moved, whatever curve Dad put in it.
By the way, I put that Royal Purple 75W-90 Gear lube in the trans and diff. (thanks guys, man, that's sticky, I might have to retire that pan).
No time to rest on laurels, just found in the body from the heater box to the floor vents plugged on both sides with more mouse mess. Fix that while waiting for new turn signal and headlight switches from Clarkes.
Bob