Engine mystery

[jimbrandberg]

I would respectfully disagree on the number of turns the lifter has until bottomed out, I'm thinking about 1 3/4 turns. The first lifter design of 60-61 or so has more turns.
I set most of them to 3/4 turn down from zero lash and think 1 turn would be okay too. The Service Manual calls for more than that. Once again, more on the 60-61.
I feel bad disagreeing with people who know more than me and I could be wrong. I do buy lifters from him...
Jim Brandberg
Isanti, MN
CorvairRepair.com

[miatawnt2b]

pulled the pushrod and lifter this evening. The pushrod was in correctly. The lifter looks really clean and smooth. I was hoping just to take it apart and clean it, but the bottom cup is pretty much permanently installed and I can't move the checkball. Checkball malfunction would explain no oil and a loose rocker for sure. I really was hoping to just rebuild it though. Instead I'll be installing a new tappit on an already broken in cam. Not ideal, but will probably be fine.
-J

[caraholic4life]

pulled the pushrod and lifter this evening. The pushrod was in correctly. The lifter looks really clean and smooth. I was hoping just to take it apart and clean it, but the bottom cup is pretty much permanently installed and I can't move the checkball. Checkball malfunction would explain no oil and a loose rocker for sure. I really was hoping to just rebuild it though. Instead I'll be installing a new tappit on an already broken in cam. Not ideal, but will probably be fine.
-J

Make sure it is a NEW never installed or used Lifter.
Installing a used lifter would more than likely create other issues fairly quick.

[Vairone]

Since the heads I installed were rebuilt the gasket surfaces were machined. To compensate I use the 1/2 instead of factory 1 turn after zero lash.

If shorter pushrods are used, which are shorter than stock by the amount the heads have been surfaced, you can use the full factory lifter preload. This assumes everything else is factory; camshaft base circle, valve tip lengths, rocker arms, etc. Any changes from factory, then the pushrod length needs to be further adjusted.

[miatawnt2b]

I think I may have overtightened the rockers. Had the car out last night and it idles well, low RPM power is good. However, power above 3000 RPM is really flat. If I get on it from a start, the engine pulls hard to 3000RPM then it just quits pulling. It's like a completely different car than when I parked it 2 weeks ago.
I used the cold valve adjusting method as I can't hear valve clatter above the exhaust volume. Took out the preload on the pushrod and then gave it an extra 3/4 turn.
-J

[2LZ]

I set mine cold at 1/2 turn per Davemotohead's video. Now if I can just get the time tp put it all back together......

[miatawnt2b]

Reset the lash and gave it 3/8 turn from preload. Much better.
-J

[cnicol]

Reset the lash and gave it 3/8 turn from preload. Much better.
-J

That's great! Where did you come up with 3/8 turn past zero lash? General recommendation is 1/2 to 3/4 turn past zero lash. FYI, The most reliable way to find zero lash, the starting point before preload, is with a .002" feeler gauge. There are other methods that also work but those require a delicate touch and some experience.

Again, great news on you success!