New Clark's oil pan Which gasket?

[aj_ed]

Doing final assy on my 65 140, put oil in engine (on engine stand) spun up distributor to check for oil pressure 45lbs
and leaks. Using orig oil pan straight and bolt holes straightened, and neopreme gasket, started leaking at front of pan on both sides. Never been a problem before, even with new offy pans. Gave up, and ordered Clarks thicker pan. I have 4 different gaskets, thin cork, thicker rubber and cork, thin and thicker paper gaskets.
Which gasket works best?

Ed in Wildomar
65 Corsa 2nd owner since 70

[66vairguy]

Doing final assy on my 65 140, put oil in engine (on engine stand) spun up distributor to check for oil pressure 45lbs
and leaks. Using orig oil pan straight and bolt holes straightened, and neopreme gasket, started leaking at front of pan on both sides. Never been a problem before, even with new offy pans. Gave up, and ordered Clarks thicker pan. I have 4 different gaskets, thin cork, thicker rubber and cork, thin and thicker paper gaskets.
Which gasket works best?

Ed in Wildomar
65 Corsa 2nd owner since 70

Talking oil pans and gaskets is nearly as bad as "what oil should I use". Plenty of opinions. Just my experience --- the neoprene, or any softer gasket like the cork and rubber, tends to distort or "squish" out of shape when you tighten the factory bolts to specification. With a used steel pan (typically bent) I use the thicker rubber and cork and "The Right Stuff (slow set up)" and put lock washers under the bolts. I tighten JUST until the gasket starts to deform.

Originally a new "un-bent" oil pan used a paper gasket. Like any gasket it eventually leaked and instead of installing a new gasket folks would OVER TIGHTEN the oil pan bolts bending the pan.

With a new thicker oil pan I would use a paper/fiber gasket with "The Right Stuff" sealer and torque the bolts to spec, which is 100 INCH pounds (not foot pounds as some have tried). With lock washers and thick cork/rubber gasket I only got to 40 INCH pounds. Not saying you should do this, just what has worked for me on older bent oil pans. Of course an aluminum oil pan with a paper gasket works IF the oil pan is straight and some are NOT due to manufacturing issues.

Let us know how the new "thicker" steel oil pan works for you. I would seat it against the block WITHOUT as gasket first to make sure it is straight!! Just me.

[SpyderMan]

Thick paper and right stuff, factory torque specs 100 in lbs.

[American Mel]

I haven't had a need to replace mine, YET.
But word on the street is that John Sweet has the BEST oil-pan gasket on the market.
I am NOT a fan of the Neoprene gaskets.

[66vairguy]

I'll add that with a paper/fiber gasket coat the inside edges with sealer (Right Stuff). That will minimize oil migration through the material. ALSO use the sealer SPARINGLY. You do not need much with a straight/level oil pan.

DO NOT use the 1 minute Right Stuff as it will literally harden before you can get all the pan bolts torqued!!!

Use the "90 Minute Right Stuff". Unfortunately both use nearly identical packaging so look carefully before buying. Only downside is waiting for it to cure before filling the engine with oil since the Corvair pan gasket sits BELOW the oil full line.

[toms73novass]

John Sweet's oil pan gasket. 100%

[caraholic4life]

When I install Valve Cover or Oil Pan Gaskets, I make sure that the Aluminum surfaces are clean and do not apply any gasket cement to those surfaces.

By not applying gasket cement to the Aluminum surfaces, it reduces the chances of gouging them when attempting to remove gaskets that have been adhered to those surfaces time after time over many years.

I apply only enough gasket cement on the Valve Cover or Oil Pan to hold the gasket in place during the installation process.

When tightening the bolts, I usually run the bolts in by hand using a socket and short extension without the ratchet.

Once all the bolts are in contact with the Valve Cover or Oil Pan, I then attach my ratchet to the socket and extension and lightly snug the bolts all the way around.

Next I go around once more while closely watching the gasket. The moment the gasket shows signs of movement, I stop and go to the next bolt. After all the bolts have been tightened to that point, I leave them alone. Usually this works well for my needs.

Later when it is time to remove Valve Covers or the Oil Pan, they will release relatively easy and the Aluminum surfaces will often be easy to clean since there was no gasket cement used during the installation.

The Valve Covers or Oil Pan can then be worked on at a bench to clean the gasket material and adhesive from them rather than on my back under the vehicle.

This has worked well for me over the years, your results may vary and or be different.....Do what works best for you.

[aj_ed]

OK, found the problem. After putting the rubberized paper gasket on, oil still leaking. pulled back off the pan, and cleaning and stoning case (and cleaning again), the stone was bumping at the bellhousing. Laying a straight edge on the case, the bellhousing was angled back at the gasket area. Apon measuring the drop, the housing was .028 lower than the case. My thought is that the bellhousing was run loose. Where the housing meets the cases, they met even.

Ed