Advice on new windshield, 66 Monza Coupe

[tzchris27]

Looking for a new windshield for my 66 Monza Coupe. I see some online for $175-$500......

Any advice on where to get one and what to watch out for, tint, shade, clear......?

I am getting a complete kit of parts, clips, silicone, installation cord from Clarkes. The car I bought was supposed to come with one but we couldnt find it (long story) but I dont want to spend too much on this but also want it right.

I removed the old front windshield yesterday, all studs are in great shape as well as the metal, gotta love the Texas cars!

Thanks for your help. Chris

[66vairguy]

Looking for a new windshield for my 66 Monza Coupe. I see some online for $175-$500......

Any advice on where to get one and what to watch out for, tint, shade, clear......?

I am getting a complete kit of parts, clips, silicone, installation cord from Clarkes. The car I bought was supposed to come with one but we couldnt find it (long story) but I dont want to spend too much on this but also want it right.

I removed the old front windshield yesterday, all studs are in great shape as well as the metal, gotta love the Texas cars!

Thanks for your help. Chris

First --- There is a company in the U.S. that makes reproduction EM (60-64) windshields that are said to be top quality. Unfortunately the last time I checked the LM (65-69) windshields were only made in China or S. America. The units from China tend to be poor quality (as I learned the hard way). The units from S. America were a better quality. This was five years back and I haven' t kept up with the changes.

Wholesale glass houses have low prices, but once you drive off it is YOURS for better or worse. Vendors charge a lot more, but they will replace a problem windshield (warped, wrong size, scratched, etc.).

Your 66 Corvair has the "glue in glass". I've done several GM cars over the years with that system. The worst was a 1969 Olds Vista Cruiser wagon with SIX pieces of glue in glass. The glass is held in with an adheasive butyl cord (3M still makes it). Do NOT confuse this with liquid butyl used to seal rubber glass gaskets.

Today most glass shops DO NOT HAVE EXPERIENCED PERSONAL to install glue in glass or the old rubber gasket glass (60-64 Corvair). Today glass fits in precise opening and uses a thin gasket (sometimes) with an urethane sealer. Gaps are VERY small.

The 60's glue in glass windshield frames had relatively large tolerances (worst case I've seen was off by 1/4" from one side to the other). At the factory the butyl bead was attached to the glass. A machine positioned the glass and once the adheasive butyl touches the painted meatal frame the glass is ADHEARED INSTANTLY and the only way to remove it is to cut the butyl!!!! So with out proper equipment how do you position the glass??????? The butyl bead has a wax paper backing. Most install the butyl around painted windshield frame and leave the was paper on the butyl and install the glass on the wax paper to fit the glass. Use masking tape and a marker to set up a guide between the body and glass. Remove windshield and the wax paper from the butyl and you and a buddy (it takes two people) positiong the glass using the reference marks just above the butyl (usually let bottom of windshield touch butyl first) and push the glass on to the butyl. IT CANNOT be removed unless you cut the butyl !!!!!!

BTW the butyl cord should come with rubber blocks that go between the lower glass and the windshield frame. Cut these blocks to center the windshield BEFORE removing the wax papwer off the adheasive butyl. They ARE NEEDED or the glass will slowly but surely moves downward over weeks (butyl stays pliable for about a decade, longer if kept out of the sun)!!!!

Corrosion was always and issue with the windshield and backlight (back window) frames. The only way to ensure it won't happen again is to take the metal glass frame down to BARE METAL and fix corrosion and pitting. Then paint with a two part EPOXY primer. The primer and new paint. Then adheasive and glass.

Do you still want to do this??? Yes it a lot of work, but doable. WARNING some just rip out the glass, scrap off the old buytl and lay down a strip of the new urethane and plop in the windshield (can't drive the car for a few days until urethane cures) and cover up the mess with the stainless trim. Fine for a while, but eventually you have problems to deal with.

Some of the new glass is thinner than original (what a surprise). If needed you can use a thicker butyl bead, but I find it's usually better to use the original 5/16" bead. If the windshield sits too high you can get the stainless trim on! BTW - DO NOT use the metal trim clips, the nylon aren't as durable, but they DO NOT TEAR THE PAINT and RUST!!!

3M butyl 08611 see ---- https://www.amazon.com/3M-Windo-Weld-Ri ... 5842&psc=1

NEVER USE SILICONE SEALER around the windshield. It is an inferior adheasive for this area. Anyone who suggests it is not knowledgeable.

Anymore question --- feel free to ask!

[tzchris27]

Thanks for the info. I'm in! Just found a new windshield from local glass place for $220, didnt ask who manufactured it, maybe I should check?

Should be able to tackle this next week, I'll post some pictures and let you know how it goes.

Thanks again for the detailed notes, very helpful! Chris

[66vairguy]

Thanks for the info. I'm in! Just found a new windshield from local glass place for $220, didnt ask who manufactured it, maybe I should check?

Should be able to tackle this next week, I'll post some pictures and let you know how it goes.

Thanks again for the detailed notes, very helpful! Chris

Your welcome --- if the glass place does not have a return policy for defects, then make sure glass is clean and free of scratches and is NOT warped (use a light reflection to check curve of glass). Do not lay the glass down flat as it can bend and crack. I learned for the glass guys to ship glass on it's edge sitting on a firm but malleable form (like wood).

I've probably got more information in my notes, but my old memory doesn't recall everything now. If you any questions drop me a PM here. I may not have an answer, but I'm will to check my notes. Good luck.

[tzchris27]

Update.

Installed my new windshield yesterday, was planning on making a short video but the 105 Texas heat (working outside) was brutal and I just couldn't deal with setting up my camera.

I'm going to say this was one of the easiest things I have done to the Corvair so far. Yeah, its not perfect but damn near it! I used the butyl tape from Clarkes as well as new metal trim clips and caulk sealer around the edges. I cut and used spacers as well as some blocks I put in temporarily to prevent the bottom edge from accidentally contacting the studs, maybe overkill but didn't want to take any chances of the edge catching a stud and chipping the windshield while I rotated it into position.

My only complaint was Clarkes said it took 20 clips for the front windshield so I bought 2 packs of 10, well my car has 22 studs so I was 2 clips short of reinstalling the trim. I do have a couple spare clips that are good from the removal process but did not have them with me at the time of install.

I also did the windshield myself using 2 suction cups.

[66vairguy]

Nice job. I see you used the masking tape and guidelines in about the same place as I do. This is one of those jobs that if you do it right it goes well.

About the trim clip studs, yes if you look at different cars you will see the locations, and number of studs, vary!!! Basic "close enough" manufacturing back then.

Two of the rubber blocks MUST stay in place permanently or the glass will slooooowly slide down over time. The butyl stays flexible for years, as intended.

[jimbrandberg]

I don't see spacer blocks available and wonder what folks make them out of and how far away from the frame you want to be so the trim fits well.
I took the windshield out of this 65 some 20 years ago.
I've got a glass guy coming and I don't think we're planning to use cord, just butyl or urethane from a tube. He doesn't like doing old cars but does it as a favor since I've known him somewhat since he was a lad.
I imagine a spacer at the top to hold the glass out a certain distance and also something on the bottom to keep it from sliding down like in hot weather. Thanks,
Jim Brandberg

[Frank DuVal]

Got an old tire and a Saws-All? Make your own. Seems difficult to cut small pieces, so maybe not. Or slit some hose fully and glue it together at the proper height. Proper height is where the windshield is equally distant from top and bottom of opening. Or grab some from the parts cars.

The spacer block does not go where the butyl tape goes. It goes at the bottom edge of the glass to the opening edge where the trim clips clip on.

The butyl tape of 3/8" flattens to about 5/16", but, the glass may be thinner than what was there 50 years ago, so measure with a piece of trim clipped in place without the glass. I too have mounted the windshield with urethane and no butyl tape. It is tricky getting the urethane at the same height (bead size) all around the opening.

[cnicol]

I have my glass installed by a pro; it's super cheap, $50 or $75 depending on complexity. Corvairs are simple so low end of that range. LM windshields are DW659 and my guy gets them from the local PPG warehouse.

First, he primes the area where the urethane lands with a brush-on primer. Next the urethane bead. Since he does multiple windshields everyday, he can put-down a perfect uniform bead of urethane in a "tall triangular" shape. Two spacers at the bottom preclude "slide".

Then, in goes the glass. The tall urethane triangle provides the opportunity to "fist pound" the glass to the exact height despite being thinner than original. While the car can be driven, it can't be driven in the rain for a day and it's best to not slam the doors with the windows closed for a day. The urethane installation is longer lasting than the original butyl tape.

[66vairguy]

I have my glass installed by a pro; it's super cheap, $50 or $75 depending on complexity. Corvairs are simple so low end of that range. LM windshields are DW659 and my guy gets them from the local PPG warehouse.

First, he primes the area where the urethane lands with a brush-on primer. Next the urethane bead. Since he does multiple windshields everyday, he can put-down a perfect uniform bead of urethane in a "tall triangular" shape. Two spacers at the bottom preclude "slide".

Then, in goes the glass. The tall urethane triangle provides the opportunity to "fist pound" the glass to the exact height despite being thinner than original. While the car can be driven, it can't be driven in the rain for a day and it's best to not slam the doors with the windows closed for a day. The urethane installation is longer lasting than the original butyl tape.

Thanks for the information. Yes the butyl tape is more difficult to set the height. I leave the backside on the tape and fit the glass before the final install. Over the years I've found a lot of variation in Corvair windshield frames. The urethane is easier, BUT you cannot move the car for awhile as you noted or the glass shifts.

The biggest problem with old cars is most glass shops can't clean up the channel well so you end up with rust after awhile. For those that can't clean and repair the channel, and put down a durable paint I suggest they go to a body shop first to get that done. The body shop can install the windshield or have someone come in.