New 1963 Monza Owner

[wlcarroll]

Hi all, I picked up my first Corvair recently as a non-running project and thought I would start a thread to introduce my 1963 Monza convertible to the forum. Don't know anything of the history of my car other than it has a CORSA North Carolina decal on the windshield. I'm located near Baton Rouge, LA. Any other Corvair owners in the area?

[doug6423]

[66vairguy]

Great looking car. Everyone should own a convertible at least once.

When asking questions, state cars year, engine HP, auto or stick, etc.

How long did the car sit without running. If more than 8 months, DRAIN THE GAS TANK before adding new gas, or starting the engine. Old gas, even when mixed with new can cause engine damage.

Find a Corvair club for help and information.

Brad may post a list of things to check.

[Gasman63]

I too have a 63 convert. Even looks like the same color.

Take your time and read lots if info to get started. I know there is a list of things somewhere here that explains getting started with an unrunning car.

[wlcarroll]

How long did the car sit without running. If more than 8 months, DRAIN THE GAS TANK before adding new gas, or starting the engine. Old gas, even when mixed with new can cause engine damage.

Not sure how long it sat up, but I went ahead and drained the tank. The gas was definitely old, but not terrible. The tank is in nice shape; it was replaced at some time. The sending unit looks great too, so it was replaced as well. Been going through the whole fuel system to be sure all is good before running.

[66vairguy]

How long did the car sit without running. If more than 8 months, DRAIN THE GAS TANK before adding new gas, or starting the engine. Old gas, even when mixed with new can cause engine damage.

Not sure how long it sat up, but I went ahead and drained the tank. The gas was definitely old, but not terrible. The tank is in nice shape; it was replaced at some time. The sending unit looks great too, so it was replaced as well. Been going through the whole fuel system to be sure all is good before running.

Good to hear. Next, but not critical as long as the car is driven locally at low speeds, would be to change the brake fluid. If it is clear then that is a good indication. If dirty from rubber material, replace fluid until clear and check the flexible rubber lines - if easily collapsed (soft) then replace. If there is rust in the brake fluid then I usually pull and inspect the master and wheel cylinders - a lot of work. If the metal brake lines are rusty you'll have to decide if they are dangerous and need replacing. Of course tires over eight years old area suspect. I had a set on one car that were 8.5 years old and looked great. The first trip on the highway after about 15 minutes I heard WUMP, WUMP, WUMP and the car was shaking. One of tires sidewall separated!!! Fortunately I got off the highway before it blew.

Of course first you have to get the engine running. I usually dismantle the carburetor to see what is in the float bowl, but since your tank is good and the fuel wasn't full of dirt and rust you may not have to. It's a lot of work and requires some experience. BTW - The Corvair Rochester carburetor literally changed every year! If you want to work on the carburetors, I'd suggest buying Bob Helt's Rochester Carburetor book. Not perfect, but well done. Many vendors sell it.

Good luck with the car. It will make a nice cruiser.

[66vairguy]

I don't recall you mentioning which drivetrain you have. Either manual or PG, check the transaxle lubricant level. A fellow in our club bought a nice coupe and drove it for two weeks and then it had "axle noises". He was asked if he checked the transaxle lube level - well no!

There was only and inch of nasty black goo in the bottom of the transmission and differential!! Too much damage for a basic rebuild.

Chevy never stated when to change the transaxle lubricant, but ever 30,000 miles is what I've found is practical (more often if racing). I recently learned Chevy suggested draining and replacing the 3 quarts in the PG pan ever 12,000 miles!

[bbodie52]

This article is well-worth reading, and will help you to "cover all the bases" before you attempt to start that stagnant Corvair...

Removing your car from storage/Reviving a Dead Corvair

viewtopic.php?p=33694&hilit=Great+artic ... ool#p33694

Common and Useful Corvair Websites

Corvair Forum viewtopic.php?f=225&t=6007

WHAT A BEAUTIFUL STARTING POINT!!!

[wlcarroll]

Thanks everyone for the encouragement and the great tips!

I'm basically doing what was suggested in the links. Working on checking out the fuel system completely before any attempts at starting. The gas tank is empty, blowing through all of the lines with my compressor, adding a fuel filter just behind the firewall, etc. Carbs have both been rebuilt. Will likely go ahead and convert to an electric fuel pump.

Once running, will go through the brakes completely before going for the first drive.

Trying to figure out what I have engine-wise. The engine code is T0205YC, which seems to indicate 80hp. But, the cylinder head number on the passenger side is 3813516. 102hp? Maybe it was upgraded at some point?

The transmission is a 4-speed manual.

Also changed some of the engine gaskets. Oil pan, valve covers, top cover, oil cooler. Engine appears to be very clean on the inside!

Have been spinning the oil pump with my drill, and rotating the crankshaft. All seems great so far.

Here's a pic of the trim tag:

[bbodie52]

Trying to figure out what I have engine-wise. The engine code is T0205YC, which seems to indicate 80hp. But, the cylinder head number on the passenger side is 3813516. 102hp? Maybe it was upgraded at some point?

The transmission is a 4-speed manual.

The 102hp heads are very similar to the 80hp heads,in that the intake and exhaust ports, valve sizes, intake manifolds, etc. are all the same. The primary difference would be the combustion chamber shape and volume, that would bump the compression ratio up from 8.0:1 to 9.0:1. The crankshaft stroke and piston sizes are all the same. The 102hp camshaft grind is somewhat more aggressive on the 102hp engine, but that is not easy to determine. The different camshaft details can be found in the engine specifications pages in the attached 1963 Chevrolet Corvair GM Heritage Center Specs.

The Corvair distributor number is stamped on the back of the housing (the side that faces the top engine shroud so it cannot be easily seen). The number may be meaningful if the internal centrifugal advance weights and springs are the original components.

[wlcarroll]

A little update: Finished sorting out everything under the hood and got the engine started and running well. Smoked a bit on startup, burning off all of the Marvel Mystery Oil I added to the cylinders. But, seemed strong and sounded great!

Now working on a brake job. Ordered one of the Clark's kits that comes with the shoes, springs, hoses, and rebuild kits for the wheel and master cylinders.

Ready to get this done so I can take it for the first drive!