dual master cyl and disks on a '65 A/C car

[Bughappy]

I'd like to add dual master cylinder & front disks to my '65 Monza.. however the Clarks kit says "Does not fit 65-66 with A/C" (and mine IS a factory A/C car) ... what experience I have with cars is nearly all body and paint work.. so I'm hoping someone here will be able to tell me how to work around this prob..... thanks guys

[notched]

I can't see why you can't use a dual reservoir master cylinder with a/c. The only item close to the brake lines would be the washer fluid reservoir.
As a matter of fact, the dual reservoir set up first became available in 1967 and a/c was still available. No differences with the master or washer fluid reservoir. When I converted my 66 I used the 67-69 pieces.

[funvairs]

Give Clark's a call. I have good luck with their tech people.

[66vairguy]

BINGO!! I have a 1966 Corvair with A/C. The reason Clark's kit won't fit is because they have A HORRIBLE BRAKE LINE ROUTING SCHEME from the master cylinder for the rear brakes. Don't get me wrong, I like Clark's and they have been great to deal with, but they need to revise their dual master cylinder kit!!!

The dual master cylinder will fit an A/C car!! Many have done it.

The Clark's issue is the A/C cars relocated the windshield washer bottle NEXT TO THE MASTER BRAKE CYLINDER!! The Clark's routing for the rear line goes out into the trunk (were it's subject to being bashed up by things) and then goes through a hole you drill RIGHT WERE THE WINDSHIELD WASHER BOTTLE IS ON A/C CARS!!!. BTW - The Clark's kit requires bending the line to the rear wheels up under the dash 90 degrees to fit the Clark's adapter and usually folks tend to kink that LONG line and swear a lot.

There is a much simpler solution now used by many. It's been posted with pictures on the other forum so go search. Basically you drill a hole right behind were the single master cylinder line goes into a fitting at the bulkhead. Then you use the adapter to go into a three port fitting and put a plug in one side port so you have the line coming in the top via a fitting in the bulkhead and a side port for the rear line. Since this position is only about an inch from the original position the rear line fits with NO bending. All the parts are available at auto parts stores.

The only issue is you have to bend a line for the rear brakes from the dual master cylinder to the new adapter you put in the bulkhead. It's all very neat and keeps BOTH lines behind the master cylinder out of harms way. EVEN BETTER you can keep the windshield washer bottle in the stock location for A/C cars.

PM me if you have any questions.

[Bughappy]

Most EXCELENT reply 66vairguy! I'll be ordering the kit tomorrow... constantly AMAZES me how many knowledgeable 'vair people there are here and how willing everyone is to share that knowledge THANK YOU!

[66vairguy]

Most EXCELENT reply 66vairguy! I'll be ordering the kit tomorrow... constantly AMAZES me how many knowledgeable 'vair people there are here and how willing everyone is to share that knowledge THANK YOU!

Order who's kit??? If you are going to modify the Clark's kit, then fine. The point of my response was to say DON'T use the Clark's kit since you can buy a dual MC and parts and do the install better to fit an A/C car.

Another option is to use the parts from a 1967 car like notched did. No line bending, just add the parts. The block with the wire next to the 67 MC is simply a switch to light a brake light in the 67 cars if one brake circuit failed. It is NOT a front/rear balance circuit like some believe. BTW - you don't need the warning light. If one circuit of a dual MC fails you WILL know it as the pedal will go down much farther, but the car will still stop. I'm old, I've experienced a few brake failures with dual MC units and no not Covairs, these were relatively NEW cars supplied by the companies I worked for. Still better than a single MC failure - that get's REAL exciting, hence the term "Emergency Brake" in the old days. Now it's called a "Parking Brake".

[martyscarr]

Are you looking at the Clark's kit C10077? That looks like a dual master for a drum/drum car. Since you're adding front discs, you need a disc/drum master cylinder. The disc/drum master cylinder has a greater reservoir for the disc brake calipers.

You might want to consider using this master cylinder, it has a 1" bore, ports on both sides and can be used for drum/drum, disc/drum or disc/disc setups. I haven't used it, it was recommended by a friend.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal ... ,4316.html

HTH
Marty Scarr

[65Monza140]

A BIG thank you to 66VairGuy who posted his solution to the A/C equipped '65-'66 cars. His solution is simple and logical. The new circut line plumbs to the new fitting in the trunk, right "behind"(rear of) the existing line thru the trunk and into the car under the dash. This allows one to put the rear brake line into the new "T"/union from the existing "T" with no bending, as '66VG says. The existing T gets used for the front brake circut, and already has all lines hooked up, except to the new MC in the trunk. (minimal bending required there.) The existing "T" will need a plug in it where the rear brake line came out. One will also need a new short line from MC to the new, rear fitting / "T".

Brilliant.

Only needed a new '67 Corvair MC from Orieley's (lifetime warrenty for total of $45), and a short line to the new, rear fitting in trunk (to under dash), and a union and a plug. Need to make sure the correct line size is selected at the store, so take the MC out of the box and fit it at the store. As '66 told me, "DON'T over-tighten!"

Thank you again 66 VairGuy!

Now to hone & rebuild all those 4 old wheel cylinders...There was not much fluid in the system...been sitting quite a while. Will use DOT 3, too, and bleed new fluid in every other Spring. Thanks for that lesson, too, '66!

[Wagon Master]

Stockish setup but you get the idea.

[66vairguy]

Great picture wagon master.

Basically I use the same 67 Corvair design shown in wagon masters picture without the low fluid circuit pressure switch (it is NOT a pressure balance valve as many claim). The BRAKE warning light was required by a regulation, but believe me that when one brake circuit fails YOU WILL KNOW IT without the light. As the center spring between the dual master cylinder pistons collapses the brake pedal will go nearly to the floor! Still works, but with only two wheels stopping the car, brake force is considerably reduced! That said it certainly is better than nothing.

One nice thing about the 67 - 69 BRAKE light is it tells you if the emergency (hand) brake is NOT completely released. A buddy had "kids" that had a bad habit of only partially releasing the emergency brake and it would overheat the rear shoes and ruin them. He finally put in a BRAKE light switch.

BTW - years ago I bought the LAST NOS Clark's brake warning light kit for a 65-66 care. It's a novelty for me and folks always ask "What's that for" which is a good conversation starter at shows. The brake switch parts from a 67-69 pedal assembly can be bolted to a 65-66 pedal assembly. All you need to do is find a 12VDC lamp to bolt under the dash.

[66vairguy]

I forgot to mention adding disc brakes on a Corvair is complicated as most "kits" are by hobby guys. Some see to work fine, others not so much based on forum comments over the years.

I put disc. brakes on a few 60's muscle cars and the process worked great, but they were either parts from "factory cars" or kits made my reputable large companies and the kits were engineered to work well.

The LM Corvair brakes are fairly large by 60's standards, while not adequate for racing, they work fine in daily use and I've kept them on my Corvairs without issue, BUT I had to find a brake shop to install softer (like original) shoe linings and arc the shoes to fit the drums. They work great. Pedal effort is low and the car stops straight and quickly. That said I have driven Corvairs with SCARY BAD drum brakes!!!!