Center/drag link

[plrgpr]

Hey all, I need a new center/drag link for my 66. Clark’s has the rubber and nylon bushing version. Which one should I get? Also, when I down sized I got rid of my press. Hopefully a press is not needed for this swap? The Corvair service manual does not talk about R&R for this. The most sophisticated suspension tool I now possess I a “pickle fork”

[bbodie52]

Are you referring to the Pitman Arm Bushing?

If the steering seems to be loose and sloppy, inspect the pitman arm bushing. It is somewhat common for these rubber bushings to rot and decay with age. I've seen some that were little more than the bolt moving loosely within the metal sleeve, with very little rubber filling the gap. Having an assistant rocking the steering wheel back and forth while you observe the steering mechanism from below may reveal any loose or worn components, from the steering box through the rest of the linkage.

IDLER ARMS
Bad idler arms can cause squeaks and shimmy. The Clark Repros all have grease fittings.

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... w_page=151

Part number C177A: 65-69 IDLER ARM-*ORIGINAL STYLE -REPRO

Weight: 3 lbs 0 oz
Catalog Page(s): 151,156(1)
Price:
1 - 1 $ 84.95
2+ $ 80.70



Recommend you take a look at the Pitman Arm Bushing on the other side, and replace it if worn.

https://ssl.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalo ... N&page=156

[terribleted]

Hey all, I need a new center/drag link for my 66. Clark’s has the rubber and nylon bushing version. Which one should I get? Also, when I down sized I got rid of my press. Hopefully a press is not needed for this swap? The Corvair service manual does not talk about R&R for this. The most sophisticated suspension tool I now possess I a “pickle fork”

No press needed to install a rebuilt drag link. The new bushing already installed in the drag link does require a press. To remove and install you will need a small joint (pickle) fork to separate the drag link from the car. The nylon bushing is more precise and has less (no) slop than the rubber one which allows a very little give. The nylon will last longer.

[plrgpr]

Thanks much Ted! Brad, sure thank you for your advice, but, no slop in the steering, it’s great. I bent the center link (please don’t ask ).

[joelsplace]

They aren't that hard to straighten. Not as easy as bending them of course...

[terribleted]

They aren't that hard to straighten. Not as easy as bending them of course...

I have straightened them with a couple blocks and a hand sledge before. Depending on how they are bent they might be perfect or maybe not, but in reality, they only need be straight enough to be able to adjust toe-in properly and not hit stuff.

[joelsplace]

IIRC I've used ratchet straps and a floor jack to straighten them on the car.

[plrgpr]

Ted, Joel. I thought about the ratchet strap thing, but how would a floor Jack be involved? I thought about straightening it still installed on the car as I know when it’s straight when the steering wheel is aligned again???

[terribleted]

Ted, Joel. I thought about the ratchet strap thing, but how would a floor Jack be involved? I thought about straightening it still installed on the car as I know when it’s straight when the steering wheel is aligned again???

If it is bent forward from someone towing with it the ratchet strap would be used to straighten it I would think and the floor jack to hold it up in place so it does not twist under the stain of the pull. You would need a large strap to generate enough force.

[plrgpr]

Gotcha Ted and, yes, it’s bent forward.

[joelsplace]

Ted's right. The straps will tend to pull down as well as back. You'll use the jack to push it up and correct any downward bend. You just want the center part to be straight. The ends aren't supposed to be straight.
Don't worry about the steering wheel. You'll have to set the toe in and that will be what straightens the steering wheel.

[plrgpr]

Thanks Joel!