1st oil change
1st oil change
Hi again. Changing the oil in my 66 monza 140 engine. I've heard it's best to use oil containing zinc. Is ok to use 'shell rotella t4' oil and a zinc additive together in my engine?
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- Posts: 2009
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 12:51 pm
- Location: Northlake, TX
Re: 1st oil change
You should use oil with the correct amounts and not try to play chemist. Too much ZDDP can cause excessive wear.
157 Corvairs, 5 Ultravans and counting
Northlake, TX
Northlake, TX
Re: 1st oil change
O.K. it's simple. The "zinc" or ZDDP issue is poorly understood and subject to a lot of hype. Until the late 50's motor oil had little ZDDP in it. What? Yes ZDDP was increased after the "Big Three" auto manufacturers decided to extend oil changes to save the consumer money. Seemed like a good idea until camshaft failures increased under warranty!!!! What to do? The automakers did not want to walk back the oil change interval (it would have annoyed a lot of car owners) so they worked with the motor oil manufacturers to improve motor oil life. The ZDDP levels were increased to solve the camshaft failure issue when the oil started to wear out, but note the too much ZDDP corrodes the engine so it's a precise amount that works well.
Now low ZDDP motor oils are far superior and reduced ZDDP (to protect the catalytic converters on new cars) isn't that big an issue. If you are worried then it's simple, just change your Corvair oil every 1,000 miles before the oil starts to deteriorate. Any name brand 10W30 oil will be more than adequate IF you change it before it wears out. Since most folks don't drive their old hobby cars that much it's not a big deal to change oil at 1,000 miles. If you are driving your Corvair a lot and don't want to change oil at 1,000 miles a higher ZDDP motor oil might be worth it. As far as the "Diesel" motor oils go, even those now have lower ZDDP because of new emissions control, but again diesel motor oil, like gas engine oils, is now far superior to anything sold in the 60's even with lower ZDDP.
The exception is new cam shaft break-in. Always a critical period and the use of camshaft break-in lube and a higher ZDDP oil will reduce the possibility of new camshaft failure. That said flat tappet camshaft break-in has always been a critical period, even with higher ZDDP oils. Once a camshaft is "broken-in" simply keeping the oil clean with frequent oil changes will ensure a long life.
All this information is in the SAE oil papers describing using ZDDP to compensate for motor oil surface tension break down as the oil ages. Not as critical with the superior motor oils sold now.
About synthetic motor oils. Most motor oils are partially synthetic now. The only advantage of a full synthetic motor oil is the ability to tolerate higher temperatures encountered during "hard" driving or racing. They get just as dirty as standard motor oils so they offer NO advantage unless you are racing or driving under hard loads like towing in high temperatures. Contrary to the hype they need to be changed just as often as standard motor oil during normal driving.
Now low ZDDP motor oils are far superior and reduced ZDDP (to protect the catalytic converters on new cars) isn't that big an issue. If you are worried then it's simple, just change your Corvair oil every 1,000 miles before the oil starts to deteriorate. Any name brand 10W30 oil will be more than adequate IF you change it before it wears out. Since most folks don't drive their old hobby cars that much it's not a big deal to change oil at 1,000 miles. If you are driving your Corvair a lot and don't want to change oil at 1,000 miles a higher ZDDP motor oil might be worth it. As far as the "Diesel" motor oils go, even those now have lower ZDDP because of new emissions control, but again diesel motor oil, like gas engine oils, is now far superior to anything sold in the 60's even with lower ZDDP.
The exception is new cam shaft break-in. Always a critical period and the use of camshaft break-in lube and a higher ZDDP oil will reduce the possibility of new camshaft failure. That said flat tappet camshaft break-in has always been a critical period, even with higher ZDDP oils. Once a camshaft is "broken-in" simply keeping the oil clean with frequent oil changes will ensure a long life.
All this information is in the SAE oil papers describing using ZDDP to compensate for motor oil surface tension break down as the oil ages. Not as critical with the superior motor oils sold now.
About synthetic motor oils. Most motor oils are partially synthetic now. The only advantage of a full synthetic motor oil is the ability to tolerate higher temperatures encountered during "hard" driving or racing. They get just as dirty as standard motor oils so they offer NO advantage unless you are racing or driving under hard loads like towing in high temperatures. Contrary to the hype they need to be changed just as often as standard motor oil during normal driving.
Re: 1st oil change
If you like to read, this info is from a fellow Corvair owner and oil expert Richard Widman.
https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf
Unless it is brand new engine I'm breaking in or I'm running very stiff valve springs in a performance engine, I worry very little about ZDDP levels and certainly never ever use any additives. On my beater Corvairs I run whatever 10W30 or 10W40 is on sale and have done that for years. It is still way better oil for these engines than they were fed back in the 60's and 70's. I've never wiped out a cam or had oil pressure issues.
https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf
Unless it is brand new engine I'm breaking in or I'm running very stiff valve springs in a performance engine, I worry very little about ZDDP levels and certainly never ever use any additives. On my beater Corvairs I run whatever 10W30 or 10W40 is on sale and have done that for years. It is still way better oil for these engines than they were fed back in the 60's and 70's. I've never wiped out a cam or had oil pressure issues.
Dave W. from Gilbert, AZ
66 Corsa 140/4 Yenko Stinger Tribute
66 Corsa 140 Coupe w/factory A/C
65 Monza 4DR 140/PG w/factory A/C
65 Monza 4DR EJ20T/5
64 Greenbrier 110/PG, Standard 6-Door
66 Corsa 140/4 Yenko Stinger Tribute
66 Corsa 140 Coupe w/factory A/C
65 Monza 4DR 140/PG w/factory A/C
65 Monza 4DR EJ20T/5
64 Greenbrier 110/PG, Standard 6-Door
- Bruins_Fan
- Corvair of the Month
- Posts: 374
- Joined: Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:45 am
- Location: North Shore, MA
Re: 1st oil change
I run this, it does contain Zinc. I had a PM conversation with Richard Widman and he gave it his stamp of approval. Corvair Forum mobile app
Sent from my SM-G975U1 using '66 Monza Convertible 110hp Powerglide
Re: 1st oil change
I doubt if Richard Widman would endorse bacon grease as engine lube, but this Youtuber found that it kept the combustion chamber very clean. Bacon has decent amounts of the minerals iron, magnesium, zinc and potassium. too. :)
Just for chuckles, obviously.
Just for chuckles, obviously.
Re: 1st oil change
You guys are the best! I value each and every comment I get here. Thanks again! If I knew how to paste a foto I would. My 66 Monza convertible is in really nice shape
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- Posts: 2009
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 12:51 pm
- Location: Northlake, TX
Re: 1st oil change
"They get just as dirty as standard motor oils so they offer NO advantage unless you are racing or driving under hard loads like towing in high temperatures."
Since when do Corvairs not run high temperatures?
Send your oil out for analysis. Unless you are changing it every 750 miles good synthetics have huge advantages.
Since when do Corvairs not run high temperatures?
Send your oil out for analysis. Unless you are changing it every 750 miles good synthetics have huge advantages.
157 Corvairs, 5 Ultravans and counting
Northlake, TX
Northlake, TX