New member from Cassville MO

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RoaringRiverRanger
Posts: 39
Joined: Sun Jul 26, 2020 6:09 am

Re: New member from Cassville MO

Post by RoaringRiverRanger »

Ok one of the shroud bolts also goes through the choke coil, holding it secure. I'll seal it up.
Steve
Cassville, MO
1963 Monza Coupe 4 Speed

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bbodie52
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Re: New member from Cassville MO

Post by bbodie52 »

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I had a question. I pulled the driver side valve cover and sheet metal tonight. Gasket looked ok, an old cork one. There is a bracket with a round coil spring that mounts to the bottom of the valve body. It had one bolt in it however there's another hole that went completely through the aluminum. I posted a photo of the hole on my new member greet, it's upside down but that's the bracket and hole I'm talking about. I'm assuming that should have some sort of screw in it. Sorry, I don't have my manual yet only the supplement, so I can't look it up. Appreciate it...Steve
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:link: http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... ow_page=56

Automatic Choke Coil & Bracket : Attaches to the head. The bimetallic coils fatigue and do not respond as quickly or with as much force as when new. Your choke may not open or close as fully and as quickly as it should. These are exact replacements for 1964–69.

Part number C1168: AUTOMATIC CHOKE COIL/BRACKET-62-69,62-63 OWNER ALSO ORD C885 UPPER ROD,RETAINRS=C1168R

Weight: 0 lbs 6 oz
Catalog Page(s): 16,56(46)

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Original Style Choke Coil Retainers: Set of 4 = 2 standard size and 2 oversize plus a drill for oversize and instructions. Hold coil to head.

Part number C1168R: ORIG STYLE CHOKE COIL RETAINERS SET/4 2 ORIGINAL, 2 OS & 1 DRILL BIT (1 SET/CAR)

Weight: 0 lbs 2 oz
Catalog Page(s): 56(46)
Price: $ 5.75


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Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible

RoaringRiverRanger
Posts: 39
Joined: Sun Jul 26, 2020 6:09 am

Re: New member from Cassville MO

Post by RoaringRiverRanger »

More out of curiosity...those retainers won't leak once installed?
Steve
Cassville, MO
1963 Monza Coupe 4 Speed

joelsplace
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Location: Northlake, TX

Re: New member from Cassville MO

Post by joelsplace »

No because there is no oil there unless someone drilled through into the rocker box assuming that is possible. I haven't looked at one for that issue. I know it can happen with exhaust studs.
113 Corvairs, 5 Ultravans and counting
Northlake, TX

RoaringRiverRanger
Posts: 39
Joined: Sun Jul 26, 2020 6:09 am

Re: New member from Cassville MO

Post by RoaringRiverRanger »

Yes the hole in my photo goes clear through into the rocker box.
Steve
Cassville, MO
1963 Monza Coupe 4 Speed

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bbodie52
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Re: New member from Cassville MO

Post by bbodie52 »

Since the oil in the valve cover area is simply draining back toward the oil pan sump and is not under pressure, it is unlikely that the oil will work its way past the rivet. A little gasket sealer on the "threads" when installing the rivet might help to ensure that there is no leakage.
Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible

RoaringRiverRanger
Posts: 39
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Re: New member from Cassville MO

Post by RoaringRiverRanger »

Thanks for the help. Was able to JB Weld the hole and replace the choke coil retainer. After a push rod tube o-ring glitch, and having to put it together twice, my car doesn't currently leak! Huge shout out to John Sweet and his pan gasket, very nice product. Now to figure out why my heater motor isn't getting power (motor checked out and works) and new shocks! Thanks again, Steve :woo:
Steve
Cassville, MO
1963 Monza Coupe 4 Speed

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bbodie52
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Re: New member from Cassville MO

Post by bbodie52 »

Corvair fan control wiring can be confusing. I would start at the blower fan location (bottom edge of the schematic diagram, to the left of the battery), and check with a multimeter for voltage at the fan input wire (with the ignition key and fan control switch ON). If you are lucky and have voltage at the input of the fan motor, check the fan housing to make sure it is properly grounded to chassis ground.

If there are problems with the different speed settings, or with getting voltage out of the control switch and resistor pack, further analysis and troubleshooting with a multimeter will be needed.

Left-click the image to enlarge for better viewing. Click a second time for maximum enlargement and to "Pan and Scan"...
1963 Corvair Passenger Car Combined Schematic.jpg
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bbodie52 wrote:Image

Your heater fan wiring difficulties are difficult to troubleshoot on paper. The 1961 shop manual wiring diagrams are a mess! I have come to believe that they simply published the engineering notes and wiring sketches in the shop manual instead of redrawing a combined wiring diagram in the final configuration. The 1962 wiring diagram is not much better. It looks like it was a first attempt at a consolidated wiring diagram, but they left some of it out! For example, if you start at the bottom of the 1962 wiring diagram and locate the HEATER BLOWER MOTOR, and then trace the 14 BRN wire back to the first multi-connector, you will discover that the wire goes nowhere! The other side of the multi-connector that is associated with the heater fan wire has nothing connected to it. At the other end, if you start at the fuse block and locate the 14 DG wire and trace it past the NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH, the wire continues to a connector labeled "HEATER TOTAL SYSTEM". :dontknow: The 1963 schematic diagram is more complete, in that the first multi-connector that is tied to the heater motor actually has a wire on the other side that leads to an actual HEATER SWITCH! Apparently, in 1963 the engineers and technical writers remember to add the wiring and switch and heater resistor that was needed to control the multispeed heater system fan. But I'm not sure what you will find in the way of color codes on the wiring harness that you are using.

The diagram at the top is for a 1965 Corvair. It is not from the shop manual, but is a supplemental drawing that was done by way of explanation to show which combinations are in the circuit to control the fan at full speed, half speed, and low speed. At full speed, the resistor pack is bypassed and a direct connection is established between the power source and the motor. Low speed utilizes only one resistor, which minimizes current flow to the motor. Medium speed connects to both resistors, using both in parallel to increase current flow to the electric motor to produce a higher speed. I have to assume that there is a short somewhere that is causing the resistor pack output to be connected to ground instead of the electric motor. Such a connection would likely cause too much current to be drawn because of the motor missing from the circuit, and this would cause the resistors two overheat because the current drawn would exceed their capacity. If the circuit had a fuse in it I would guess that the fuse would blow to protect the circuit. But if you have bypassed the fuse and connected to the resistor pack to ground in some way there is no circuit protection and the result would be fuses that begin to burn up.

The wiring diagram at the top basically shows the goal you are trying to achieve with the heater control switch and the resistor pack. You may have to resort to using a multimeter (with the power source from the battery disconnected temporarily) to check for continuity at different switch positions to see which terminals provide a direct connect and connection to one or both resistor terminals. In this way you can test each segment of the circuit to trace the wiring to see where it goes and if it reaches the desired component. The direct connect from the switch should run directly to the motor input. The motor itself is grounded through the mounting case to provide the ground return to the battery negative terminal via the car chassis. (Does the full speed setting at the switch cause the motor to operate at full speed?) You should be able to trace the wire that is routed from the low speed position on the switch to one of the resistors in the resistor pack. When you move the switch to the second position (MEDIUM), the wiring connection from the switch should be routed to both resistors. The resistor pack output should be traceable back to the motor input.

The EM fuse block shown below may be a little confusing, because it shows two different fuses associated with the heater. I believe the 10 amp fuse is intended to be connected to the illumination lamps associated with the heater blower control switch and heater controls and the glove compartment lamp. The other fuse associated with the heater (total system) is a 20 amp fuse that powers the backup lights and the heater fan. So the 20 amp heater fuse is the one that is intended to power the heater fan motor. The 10 amp fuse is only intended to power the control lights.
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The four pictures below show two variations of the Corvair heater resistor pack. You can see that the two resistor coils are different sizes. I'm guessing that the larger coil is the low-speed coil and has adequate capacity to dissipate heat when used by itself for the low speed setting when it is conducting current to the motor. The smaller coil would be an add-on coil that would also conduct current to the motor simultaneously with a larger coil to increase the motor speed to the medium setting. The smaller coil would not have the heat capacity to operate by itself.

It occurs to me that you might have the connections to the inputs (verticals spade connectors) reversed. (The output of the resistors is the horizontal spade connector). If the low switch setting is connected to the smaller resistor coil, it might overheat if it is the only resistor coil in the circuit that is connected to the low-speed switch setting. The resistor coil with a larger capacity would be the one that should be connected to the low-speed switch output. Having the wrong resistor coil connected to the low-speed switch output could be causing the resistor coil to overheat. Simply switching the two outputs of the heater switch to connect the low-speed wire to the larger resistor coil may eliminate the problem you are experiencing with the apparent overheating of the single coil that is operating by itself. The low capacity resistor coil may only be able to function properly when it is connected in tandem with the larger coil, thus sharing the load to the motor between the two resistors.

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I hope that this information may prove to be useful in helping you to troubleshoot and correct problems with your heater system wiring. Please let me know if you have any further questions and if you are able to get your system working properly. :pray:
If you have problems with the heater fan control switch itself, click on the link below to open up another "can of worms" and read about the internal details of that switch...

Image :link: http://www.corvairforum.com/forum/viewt ... 225&t=9252
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Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible

chris
Posts: 89
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2010 5:25 pm

Re: New member from Cassville MO

Post by chris »

Cool, I saw the heading of Cassville and immediately thought of Roaring River! I really enjoy going there and I think our family might be back in October (maybe I’ll actually catch a fish this time!)

I know it’s not super close for you but our club here in the Kansas City area is a great one. Once you get those leaks dried up it should be good to go.


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RoaringRiverRanger
Posts: 39
Joined: Sun Jul 26, 2020 6:09 am

Re: New member from Cassville MO

Post by RoaringRiverRanger »

When you're down Chris, shout if you see me prowling around!
Steve
Cassville, MO
1963 Monza Coupe 4 Speed

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