My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

[64CorvairMonza]

Well. I'm not finding anything related to Corvair fuel overflow relief drains or hoses except under Corvette 1965 and up and nothing you described. I couldn't find it in Clark's online catalog either. If you find a link. please share it.

You have the Clark's paper catalog? If not you need one.

Yes, I have one. They sent me one with my last order. I'm so frustrated trying to figure out the code names they give these items!! I've looked under gas/fuel and nothing!! Should I look under glass, wheels, carpeting, ......?? They have the only parts catalog where they rename items to their own dictionary and I'm not out to figure puzzzles!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I just looked through OPG's cat. and it's in very nice simple English but still no fuel drain parts for the Fuel door fuel filler hose pocket...... IF you know where it is just say so, I know how to open a book and turn to a page NUMBER.... Thank God nobody can disguise numbers!!! ...........

[bbodie52]

Is this what you were looking for?

Well. I'm not finding anything related to Corvair fuel overflow relief drains or hoses except under Corvette 1965 and up and nothing you described. I couldn't find it in Clark's online catalog either. If you find a link. please share it.

You have the Clark's paper catalog? If not you need one.

Well. I'm not finding anything related to Corvair fuel overflow relief drains or hoses except under Corvette 1965 and up and nothing you described. I couldn't find it in Clark's online catalog either. If you find a link. please share it.

You have the Clark's paper catalog? If not you need one.

Yes, I have one. They sent me one with my last order. I'm so frustrated trying to figure out the code names they give these items!! I've looked under gas/fuel and nothing!! Should I look under glass, wheels, carpeting, ......?? They have the only parts catalog where they rename items to their own dictionary and I'm not out to figure puzzzles!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I just looked through OPG's cat. and it's in very nice simple English but still no fuel drain parts for the Fuel door fuel filler hose pocket...... IF you know where it is just say so, I know how to open a book and turn to a page NUMBER.... Thank God nobody can disguise numbers!!! ...........

Gas Tank & Related Parts
http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... ow_page=70

9B. Gas Filler Drain : 1961–64. Keeps gas from spilling on the tire. As original this fits nylon insert in bottom of gas filler pocket and runs down side of fender.
C3596 4 oz.

9C. Nylon Drain Insert: 1961–64. Pushes into gas pocket and hose attaches. C9814 1 oz.

9D. Clip: 1961-64. Holds drain hose in place. Minimum of 2 needed. C9815 1 oz.

Part number C3596: HOSE-61-64 GAS FILLER DRAIN NYLON INSERT = C9814, METAL CLIP= C9815

Weight: 0 lbs 4 oz
Catalog Page(s): 70(9B)
Price: $ 5.60



Part number C9814: 61-64 GAS PCKET DRAIN INSERT-ALSO FITS FC BATTERY TRAY

Weight: 0 lbs 1 oz
Catalog Page(s): 70(9C),80
Price: $ 2.95



Part number C9815: 61-64 GAS PCKET DRAIN HOSE CLIP-MINIMUM OF 2 NEEDED/CAR

Weight: 0 lbs 1 oz
Catalog Page(s): 70(9D)
Price:
1 - 1 $ 2.65
2+ $ 2.40

[terribleted]

You will find a lot of Clark’s parts located with their closest sub assembly. Like here the fuel drain parts are located with the zags tank parts. I rarely even use the index as I have thumbed through the CAT enough to have a pretty good idea what part of it to look in.

[joelsplace]

Well. I'm not finding anything related to Corvair fuel overflow relief drains or hoses except under Corvette 1965 and up and nothing you described. I couldn't find it in Clark's online catalog either. If you find a link. please share it.

You have the Clark's paper catalog? If not you need one.

Yes, I have one. They sent me one with my last order. I'm so frustrated trying to figure out the code names they give these items!! I've looked under gas/fuel and nothing!! Should I look under glass, wheels, carpeting, ......?? They have the only parts catalog where they rename items to their own dictionary and I'm not out to figure puzzzles!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I just looked through OPG's cat. and it's in very nice simple English but still no fuel drain parts for the Fuel door fuel filler hose pocket...... IF you know where it is just say so, I know how to open a book and turn to a page NUMBER.... Thank God nobody can disguise numbers!!! ...........

I'm guessing Ted just suggested a catalog because I already answered your question complete with a link as requested. He probably didn't feel the need to repeat it. Clark's index isn't the best but it only took me about 5 seconds to find it. Searched "fuel" and then clicked on "tank hose & parts" in the results. I have no idea where you came up with "Corvette 1965 and up" but I doubt it was Clark's site. Unless you really know your Corvair parts you really need to stick to Clark's or call one of the other Corvair specific vendors.

[64CorvairMonza]

Yes, I've seen the black rubber funnel looking item and the hose seems to be standard 3/16 fuel line. I guess I expected there to be a clip to hold the funnel in place but maybe it just pulls through and locks into place and the clips are to route the hose inside the fender lip. The Corvette uses the same items back then. I found them using google search. I'm going to have to spend some time and thumb though my new books to get familiar with it. I was just trying to confirm that but at the time I couldn't locate it. OK, I got it figured out now.

I believe I will need to change my oil and filter. I run the dipstick across my paper towel and it's quite watery and leave a path of nasty liquidy charcoal looking grit.. It looks like about 20 weight now... I think it's suppose to be 10w-30 or my preference of 10w- 40. It smells of fuel also. I changed my plugs and it runs great now but after it warms up and I try to drive down the street, I get what sounds like water knock.. Do you think that thin gassy oil is causing it? I think it's called pre- detonation knock or something like that. I had Volkswagen beetles that did that on occasion when they got hot and I think it was a timing or fuel issue for some reason. When my beetle couldn't hardly climb a paved road incline, I found it to be a simple turn of the distributor. I'm going to see if I can figure out how to check the timing. The distributor was very nice and clean at the contact points. Speaking of points, I forgot to check them. Fuel smells rich also. I'm using 90% octane. I pulled on to the road and I pushed the gas pedal and it was sluggish and put the pedal to the floor and nothing changed but a louder knock. I know it's not the rods. The carbs are suppose to be new but I think they need to be adjusted. I see one screw with a spring on the inside of the right carb and on the outside of the left carb. Is that a fuel adjuster? Seems there should be a gas/air mixture adjustment. While I was backing in through the backyard to put it back in my shop, I stopped to see if my ramps lined up with the tires and when I tried to go again, it didn't have enough umph, so I put it in drive and moved a few feet forward and then back into reverse and I was able to back up the ramps (slight incline maybe 6" with 12' long 2" x 12" boards) and into the garage. On the road, there's no backing issues. It just don't like to work hard on soft ground. Luckily we haven't had any rain in a week or so. How do you adjust the idle and I spose it's done evenly for both carbs. Is there a MAIN adjustment at the throttle rod that will do both cars at once? To check if my carbs are in sync should not be a tuff job with only two carbs. Do we have a help forum with HOW TOO instructions and tips for what I need?

I'm also almost ready to install my headlight bucket gaskets and from removing the old ones, I spose they glued the gasket down to the rear of the bucket first. Maybe using a thin layer of black rubbery silicon. I have E6000 that should do the trick. It's like GOOP but a tad thinner and sets up nicely after a few hours but I would wait over night just to be safe and use screws in place to make sure the holes stay lined up. I couldn't find anywhere on tips for removing old gaskets but I laid the buckets in the sun and after about an hour my scraper blade sliced right under them and separation was nice. When it's a tad cold, forget it!! I got the thick gaskets and they should be great. Today I welded the two bolts onto each bucket and that turned out great. I'm using .25 wire set at 100 amps and a low heat setting on my mig and it was great. I love these new mig welders. I can run as high as 250 amps if need be but I usually just do sheet metal work. The two bolt on each bucket are for #1>> The top of the mud shield and #2 >> to secure the bottom of the buckets to the body. And BTW, any tip on how to remove the old undercoating from the mud shields that I did remove from in front of each front tire? Do I have to propane torch and heat the stuff up and scrape it off?? Luckily I don't have a lot of that nasty coating they splattered on. I want to clean them up and repaint them. Well, that it for now. I'll put up some new pictures of my latest accomplishments soon. Thanks for your help.

[terribleted]

Do you have the GM Corvair shop manuals for your car? You need the 1961 Main book and the 64 supplement at least.

"I believe I will need to change my oil and filter. I run the dipstick across my paper towel and it's quite watery and leave a path of nasty liquidy charcoal looking grit.. It looks like about 20 weight now... I think it's suppose to be 10w-30 or my preference of 10w- 40."

Good plan if you had the manual you would know that SAE 30 is specified 10W 30 is good replacement if you can not find the single weight.

"It smells of fuel also."

Either carbs flooding or bad mechanical fuel pump dumping raw gas into crankcase.

"I changed my plugs and it runs great now but after it warms up and I try to drive down the street, I get what sounds like water knock.. Do you think that thin gassy oil is causing it? I think it's called pre- detonation knock or something like that. I had Volkswagen beetles that did that on occasion when they got hot and I think it was a timing or fuel issue for some reason. When my beetle couldn't hardly climb a paved road incline, I found it to be a simple turn of the distributor. I'm going to see if I can figure out how to check the timing. The distributor was very nice and clean at the contact points. Speaking of points, I forgot to check them. Fuel smells rich also. I'm using 90% octane."

Detonation normally caused by timing too far advanced or low octane fuel. These cars were designed to use 95 or so octane fuel. I run only 92 octane or better unleaded in mine. Timing adjustments are in the manual.


"I pulled on to the road and I pushed the gas pedal and it was sluggish and put the pedal to the floor and nothing changed but a louder knock. I know it's not the rods. The carbs are suppose to be new but I think they need to be adjusted. I see one screw with a spring on the inside of the right carb and on the outside of the left carb. Is that a fuel adjuster? Seems there should be a gas/air mixture adjustment. "

There are 2 adjusting screws on each carb. The ones facing the center of the engine are the idle mixture. these should be about 1.5-2.5 turns out from seated. The other screws are on the front or rear of each carb and are for idle speed. Sounds like your "new" carbs may not be so hot. Rebuilding and adjustment procedures are in the GM Shop manuals.

[64CorvairMonza]

Advice for anyone having an engine that just don't want to run right or maybe won't idle right. I had a buddy that owns his own automotive shop but refuses to work on Corvair engines ( specifically balancing the carbs LOL ) suggest and bring me the spark plugs!!! The plugs are E3.46 for $7 each! I was having a problem starting my car and when I finally got it started, if it quit the battery would die before I got it restarted again. It smelled rich, the old plugs were fouled and black and smelled funny. After I installed these plugs, all I had to do was set the choke and turn the key and it started right up!! And if for some odd reason the engine died later after running, I could start it right back up. I think the passenger side is running way too rich and that gas adjuster looks further out that the side than on the carb side I don't have issues with,but, those plugs gave me a platform to work from!! The old plugs I removed were AC and I was surprised they weren't doing their job. These E3 plugs are something else, and a 5 year warranty!!!

Bout ready to spray paint and assemble my headlight adjusters and glue the gasket onto the back of them and finally get them installed. Some idiot decided to cut square holes in one of them and install modern headlight adjusters and plaster them with black RTV. Well, it was tedious work but I removed the plastic and RTV and cut tiny metal squares to the shape of the odd Dremeled out holes and tack weld them in as I did the two new (non galvanized) stove bolts. The 'domed' heads fit perfectly for this and were a good base to weld from!! .025 wire on a low setting works great for touch and go and it's the preferred wire that body shops use for sheet metal work because it melts like butter. Good thing I have a pedestal grinder and wire brush for shaping them squares as it took a few trips back and forth. Anyway, it worked great and after some rust pit Bondo filling, I'm ready to sand and evaluate before painting. That Bondo looks plentiful now but will look great after it's sanded and the bolts are cleaned up.

I'm still waiting on an answer on the gasket installment, if it is preferred to glue them in place prior to installation. Tell me about your experiences, cause that part in the middle that curves looks like it would pull the gasket out of place above and below it. IF you did answer it, sorry if I missed it.

[terribleted]

Never heard of E3 plugs. Be advised that plugs of the wrong heat range will not work well and could damage the engine. Even more important is that many sources list plugs as acceptable for our engines that are too long in reach. These can actually contact pistons or burn holes in the top of them. I use Bosch W8AC plugs generally in my Corvair engines. There is an NGK number that is also excellent but the number eludes me at the moment.

Balancing Corvair carbs is simple. You purchase a Uni-syn carb synchronizer and follow simple instructions and they are balanced. This assumes that the carbs are in good condition and properly adjusted internally (ie, rebuilt in most cases) as balancing screwed up carbs give mediocre results. Rebuilding these carbs is also simple there are step by step instructions in the GM factory Shop Manuals and supplements. the 1964 Shop Manual Supplement has the data you need for your car assuming the carbs have not been swapped over the years.

[joelsplace]

Beware of magic spark plugs. Replacing fouled plugs with new plugs will solve the issues temporarily. If you don't fix the issue that caused the old plugs to foul and these magic plugs don't foul also then they are way too hot and you will have problems like Tom said.
Fix your carburetors!

[64CorvairMonza]

I hear what you are saying but it came up when they were cross referencing the original plugs and if it was dangerous or a risk for the engine, he would have told me. I always listen to my engines and don't think they are hotter as much as there's more contact points for ignition. And yes, we may not know what is going on inside except that it now purrs like a kitten.

I finally got to paint my parts today and now after about a 3 day cure time, I will be able to glue my gaskets in place and install after I install my headlight adjusters. I'm really getting excited but won't rush things. Got my parts hanging in the sun so the paint can cure. I think once the mud shields are in place, they should be rubber coated with undercoating to help kill the sounds of debris that the tires may throw at them. Anyway, stay tuned for headlight assembly w/ the custom headlight covers being installed. The chrome trim rings I got from Clark's fit the headlight covers perfectly!!! I was afraid I'd have to do some Dremel trimming of the edges....

[terribleted]

The plugs may be fine just check that the reach is correct to be sure.

[64CorvairMonza]

The plugs may be fine just check that the reach is correct to be sure.

Yes, I did check the reach, or length and it was identical to the original AC plugs I pulled.

Also can someone please tell me or send me a link on the subject of > How do you install the new springs in the headlight buckets? My rivet gun won't go down into the spring and that hook is in the way anyway, but, I can either use a screw through the spring from the top or use a rivet from behind maybe by dropping a rivet washer through the inside of the spring. I'm thinking a screw would be the best procedure.

I didn't get any fasteners with my springs but I think I recall other kits including screws. I did get rivets to secure my headlight adjusters in place and I will have no problem there with rivet gun accessibility. Thanks for all your help.

[terribleted]

A properly sized screw should work. The rivet from the back with a capture washer in the spring sounds like an elegant solution but will need to be pretty strong as the spring has pretty good tension on it. A screw and nut set up would certainly be strong enough I would think.

[64CorvairMonza]

I found nice 2" tapered Phillips head screws and washers and lock washer to lock the nuts in place. I had to trim about 1 1/2" off the scew to make them the perfect size and they snugged them springs down nicely. I slipped the bucket gaskets on and all holes lined up great and stuck the buckets in place and drove the screws home!! That bottom bolt was not fun,but, at least doable. I have big hands but managed to slip the washers and nut on and with my short 7/16" box end wrench, I snugged them up!! Then I hooked up the grounds on the harness and tested them and that's where I am for the night. Tomorrow I will install the headlight bulbs, and the turn signal gaskets with the new turn signal lenses I got for it, then light covers, and front trim and I'll be finished!!!! Can't wait to get photos of the finished front end. The front emblem with the Chevy emblem looks much better that with it being black. Let's see what I have in my photo bag for now........

[64CorvairMonza]

I finally looked under that rear of my car and located the two air engine vents. They're cool looking like that on the front sides of a stealth fight LOL... I took my fingers and found the passenger side springy and workable, but, the drivers side was a bit stiffer and not so springy. Are these easy to clean and to get working properly? Maybe it's a matter of spray lube or WD-40. I finished assembling the front end headlight system and what a difference!!!! I had to put my camera battery on the charger because it was too low to take photos. Later, Scott

[64CorvairMonza]

OK, just took fresh photos of my beauty sitting in the Florida sun after finishing the headlight system!!! These are for my 'sale ads' also for $3000.