Its been awhile!!

[joelsplace]

Carburetor issues often show up after a period of sitting.

[azdave]

I just brought a 140 back to life after a long period of storage and after it was running a few minutes I had an excess fuel issue. Thinking it was a needle valve in the carb not seating fully, I tapped on the carb top with a screw driver handle. That usually works but this time did not fix the issue. I pulled the carb top and found one float was full of gas so the float could not rise high enough to shut off the fuel flow and it was spilling out the vent. Not unusual to have something like that happen. I was able to carefully solder the hole in the brass float. Ended up rebuilding all 4 carbs while I had all the tools out. Good decision as the fresh fuel had not dissolved the gooey gook left behind from 20+ years parked. Runs nice so far.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5UMgK7tIaE

[64powerglide]

Freejax, I had the same problem only my right carb was the one. If I drove it a while then shut if off for a short period of time & it would start on 3 cylinders & blow gas out the right exhaust. When it sat the gas expanded from engine heat & ran into the manifold & the plugs fouled out as soon as I started it again. I finally made a drastic change on the float setting & have not had any more trouble with it. Good luck!

[Freejax]

Hey guys I have been working on and off with this issue, I took the top of the carb off and measured the float, measurement was good so I put it back together and same thing happened. Took it all apart again removed the float and found it had a pin hole in the side, I have a parts car so I pulled one of the floats, tested it over night and put it in, no more fuel spilling everywhere. Now I have been fiddling with trying to set up carbs something has changed not sure what. Next week I plan to do a step by step tune up to the whole engine including points, timing and carbs, wish me luck!!

[64powerglide]

GOOD LUCK

[Freejax]

Good day guys been working on the Corvair trying to get the proper tune on it, I did put in a bigger cam from clarks, I am wondering if that would make it idle at a higher RPM? Another question I have, is it common for only one side of the hot air flaps on the rear to open, I took the lazy side apart tested the bellow (its brand new and it worked fine) put it back together made sure there was no binding anywhere, seems to be smooth operation but it is not opening up when engine is warm, the driver side is opening fine?? any suggestions, thanks!!

[bbodie52]

Depending on the camshaft performance grind, the more radical cams tend to idle poorly, with a "lumpy", rough idle that may demand a higher idle speed just to keep running. They are designed to get "on the cam" at high RPM "racing" engine speeds and are not really intended or designed for good performance at normal street RPM settings. Every camshaft design is a series of compromises, to optimize performance for its intended use. The same could be said about over-sized carburetors with high CFM flow rates that are really often designed to be run wide open, or close too it, for racing. A smaller carburetor is more of a compromise, to allow good street performance and fuel mileage, while sacrificing some top end horsepower.

Most V8 engines or overhead cam engines permit a fairly easy camshaft change, so experimentation and tuning by changing camshafts is a possibility. But the Corvair requires a complete engine disassembly to change the camshaft, so camshaft selection must be done carefully and as a part of an overall design and intended purpose and use. For example, a normally aspirated Corvair engine with the intake manifolds removed to permit installation of Weber 3-barrel carburetors on each side and tubular exhaust headers would be responsive to a carefully selected, more radical camshaft that would take advantage of the improved "breathing" capacity of the heads, with improved intake and exhaust systems. A hot grind in the cam alone cannot really perform with standard carburetors and a simple dual exhaust with the restrictive "log"exhaust manifolds. The wrong camshaft choice can produce a rough running engine that is almost unusable on the street. Some experimentation and experience helps with choosing the "right" cam for the intended purpose, but the overall design and capacity of the intake and exhaust system must all be considered.

The left "driver" side of the engine does include the oil cooler, so some additional heat would be passing on the left side thermostat. But generally I believe that both heads and cylinder banks should produce similar operational heat. A dead, or poorly operating carburetor on one side could cause that side to perform poorly and produce less heat. The poor operation of one side may be masked somewhat by the operation of the other three cylinders on the other side, but overall performance would be suffering and the lack of heat production from one side could be a performance symptom that points to a mechanical fault, or imbalance, on one side. the apparently inactive thermostat door might be a symptom, or clue, that a problem exists. Sometimes you can detect this with a dual exhaust system by an exhaust that is noticeably cooler on one side when compared to the other. Careful examination and comparison of the spark plugs may also reveal weak, or different performance when comparing the two sides. A compression test can also reveal a mechanical fault in one or more cylinders.

[Gregory_Miller]

I had an issue where the plug wire for #2 cylinder failed so that side would stay choked since that's right where the choke coil lives, thankfully didn't take long to figure that out, but it sounds like it's still a carb issue on that side.. do you have a Uni-Syn?

[Freejax]

Thanks for the great info Brad, lots to consider. My cam grind is not radical it is only one step up from stock with bigger jets in the carbs. I found one of my problems is my dwell, I am having a hard time setting it as the distributor bushings are worn, going to electronic ignition to solve that problem then I will retune the car. And yes I do have a carb balancer.

[Freejax]

Hi guys my car almost passed safety but one thing that stopped it was the reverse light switch was not working. I bought a new one from clarks and when I went to put it back in I noticed the wire and plug of wire was no good either. I asked clarks if they just sell the wire and plug part and they do not carry them, any suggestions on a fix, I don't think mine is repairable as it seems the wires are almost broke off where they contact to the plug, thanks guys.

[bbodie52]

In North Carolina, vehicles more than 35 years old are exempt from the annual safety inspection. I guess they assume that older vehicles never develop faults.

The backup light switch harness is a simple two-wire arrangement. I would think you can fabricate a replacement portion for the defective harness with some wire and hardware, connectors, etc. that wold be available in most auto parts stores. Simply replace the bad wire and use some insulated butt connectors to crimp on the needed components.

Left-click each image to enlarge for better viewing...

1965 Corvair - Four Speed Transmission Backing Lamp Assembly Diagram

1965 Corvair 3-speed Backup Light Switch

For schematic wiring diagrams, click on the link below...

CORVAIR COMBINED WIRING SCHEMATIC DIAGRAMS
http://www.corvairforum.com/forum/viewt ... 25&t=12968

I would suggest looking over the attached Corvair wiring harness listing from M&H. It shows numerous small specialized sub-harnesses for special features, and includes a number of backup light harnesses on page 4. I believe M&H builds the harnesses sold by Clark's Corvair Parts. It might help you to telephone M&H to discuss your specific needs so you can determine just what you need to order.

Here is a second source for Corvair wiring components...

» Thu Sep 03, 2015 12:46 pm

I'm an electrical person and I just wanted to say I had a great experience with M&H Electrical Fabricators in the Los Angeles area...

...Clark's sells M&H wiring harnesses and as far as I can determine M&H is the ONLY supplier that makes ALL the Corvair harnesses, even the one wire with connectors for the Spyder/Corsa thermistor (drives the temperature gauge).

I stopped by M&H's place of business and they were very helpful (I'm modifying one of their harnesses) and knowledgeable. I've used their harnesses in both my cars and fit and function is excellent.

M&H makes harnesses for lots of cars, but there commitment to the Corvair is worth noting. There are other suppliers, but over the years I've seen a number of so called "Corvair" wire harnesses from other suppliers that were incorrect or badly assembled that caused owners problems.

M&H Corvair Wiring Harness Catalog.pdf

M&H Corvair Wiring Harness Catalog

(849.15 KiB) Downloaded 28 times

http://www.wiringharness.com/

Mailing Address:

M&H Electric Fabricators, Inc.
13537 Alondra Blvd.
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670

e-Mail Address: sparky@wiringharness.com

Sales and Customer Service: (562) 926-9552
Technical Support: (562) 926-9562
24 Hour Fax Line: (562) 926-9572

Repro Wiring Harnesses for America's Muscle Cars

M & H Electric Fabricators manufactures a complete line of exact reproduction wiring harnesses, battery cables and switches for Classic GM, Chrysler and AMC Muscle Cars.

All of our harnesses are hand assembled to original OEM specifications to ensure a perfect fit in your classic Muscle Car. Wire gauge, length, color and tape are exactly like stock original down to the last detail. Our rigid Quality Control Standards ensure that the harness you receive will look, fit and function as original. In fact, we are so confident in the quality of our harnesses that we offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee.

Just "click" around our web site for a while and see everything we have to offer. You can place an order, view any of our catalogs on-line or request a catalog via snail mail. Be sure to check out our FAQ page, it's loaded with answers and helpful tips.

In addition to servicing the Classic Muscle Car market, we also manufacture custom harnesses, pigtails and wiring assemblies for Original Equipment Manufacturers (OEM) as well. Some of our markets include: Automotive OEM, Performance Automotive Aftermarket, Heavy Truck and Bus, Farm Equipment, Marine and Industrial markets. Check out our list of customers.

We can build pigtails or harnesses to your print or help you design. Our extensive inventory of thousands of hard-to-find connectors and terminals (including discontinued GM part numbers) is unmatched in the harness industry. We specialize in low volume harness assemblies, pigtails and prototypes. Wire marking and printing is available, and our automated processing equipment ensures quality every step of the way.

Also consider...



http://www.ronfrancis.com/

Ron Francis Wiring
(a.k.a. Wire Works)
200 Keystone Road, Suite #1
Chester, PA 19013

INSTRUCTIONS FOR CALLING US
Toll Free: 800-292-1940
Local number: 610-485-1981

To place an order or ask questions pertaining to placing an order, hit Option #1

To ask technical questions in reference to a product that you already own, or what you may consider an extremely technical question, and return authorizations, hit Option #3

To request our latest printed catalog to be mailed to you, hit Option #2

Our shop is open Monday through Friday from 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Eastern Standard Time. Sorry, but we are not open on the weekends. We do not have a showroom, but do allow customers to pick up their product from our location. If you are standing in our Pennsylvania location, you will pay Pennsylvania sales tax (6%) so weigh the benefits of shipping versus tax (plus the cost of gasoline) before you make the trip. We love to see our customers, and their cool cars, but we're not always worth the trip...

Please call for exact directions. We are located at the intersection of Rt. 322 (Conchester Highway) and Interstate 95 (near the Commodore Barry Bridge) on the Upper Chichester & City of Chester town lines, on a dead-end street that appears on both sides of the highway, at an interchange.

Their catalog is available for download at their Web site.

[61SuperMonza]

M&H harnesses are of great quality. I have main body and engine harnesses. I am very pleased with them.

[joelsplace]

I know you'll want to fix it but you might check the actual law where you are and see if they are required on a '67 model. They don't check reverse lights on any cars here in Texas.

[Freejax]

Must be nice, here in Canada they check everything to the last bolt. In a way I guess that's a good thing if I am hauling my family to car shows in it. Just have to bleed brake lines and take it back for final inspection, keeping my fingers crossed she passes this time.