Ticking sound. Rear wheel 1963 vert

[Richgj3]

Hi All

Recently purchased a 1963 Monza Convertible with auto trans. There is a clicking sound from the left rear wheel which I suspect is a wheel bearing. At least in other cars it would be my first choice but since I’m new to this world ( my last Corvair was sold in 1970 and it was a 66) I’d like to ask your opinions. I have the noise with or without the hubcap on and when I got the car a few weeks ago we pulled all the wheels to look at the brakes which looked excellent.

Rich G

[bbodie52]

Welcome to the Corvair Forum!

I would like to encourage you to expand on your first post and tell us more about yourself, as well as about your Corvair. If you can provide your personal assessment of your mechanical skills and abilities, that would help a lot. Members of the Corvair Forum love to be helpful in assisting other Corvair owners with technical support and advice, but it helps a lot if we have some understanding of your technical background and mechanical abilities, your Corvair-related knowledge, etc. Helping us to know more about you will help us to write comments to you that are tailored to your needs and experience. Knowing your specific location is also useful, because knowing where you live can sometimes suggest possibilities.

The link below will provide you with a list of useful websites that are Corvair-related. Some of the links will lead you to an extensive technical library that will allow you to download shop manuals and other technical references in Adobe Reader format at no cost. There is also a link that will help you to locate nearby CORSA (Corvair Society of America) club chapters. While the Corvair Forum can be very helpful as you work on your Corvair, having local friends and contacts in your region who are knowledgeable about the Corvair can also be very helpful. These family-friendly CORSA chapters often offer picnics, group scenic drives, technical training and assistance, car shows, and competition events that can greatly enhance your enjoyment of Corvair ownership. You will also find a list of essential Corvair parts suppliers. Clark's Corvair Parts in Shelburne Falls, MA is the biggest and oldest Corvair supplier in the world. You will find a link that can provide you with a series of videos that amount to a tour of the Clark's Corvair Parts facilities. I think you will be amazed at the quality of the reproduction components they offer — particularly the interior carpeting and re-upholstery items. Parts suppliers such as this truly make our Corvair hobby possible.

Common and Useful Corvair Websites

http://www.corvairforum.com/forum/viewt ... 225&t=6007


Clark's Corvair Parts says that early model rear axle bearings can be the most dangerous part of the car. While I've never had an EM rear axle bearing fail on a long journey, I can think of several Corvair Forum members who have had them fail and even break an axle in one instance. I have had rear axle bearing failures in two 1965 Corvairs — one during a cross-country trip from California to new Jersey (it failed in Cheyenne, Wyoming) and the other failed in Germany. In any case, you might want to spend some time inspecting/replacing the universal joints and inspecting/lubricating the rear axle bearings, as described in these two videos...

Badly worn universal joints can produce a clunking sound — especially in turns — as the cross shifts within the needle bearing cup. That sound may telegraph and the sound source maybe difficult to identify. Universal joints often are neglected — especially if they don't have grease fittings to allow them to be lubricated regularly. I recommend you inspect yours.

The applicable section starts on page 165 of the Clark's Corvair Parts catalog...
http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... w_page=165


FYI: Front-end clunking might also be a badly worn ball joint. The pitman arm bushing can also rot and leave a lot of slop in the steering connection between the steering box pitman arm connection and the steering linkage.



I've seen them so bad that the rubber part is completely missing, leaving only the bolt floating within the steering link.

[bbodie52]

Here are a few more tips for a new Corvair owner...

As you are probably aware, the emergency/parking brake is the ONLY thing that prevents your Powerglide automatic transmission-based Corvair from rolling away when it is parked. Unlike most automatic transmission-based cars, the Corvair Powerglide does not have a PARK position on the shift lever! There is no mechanism in the Corvair automatic transmission to lock it when parked. This makes the condition of the Corvair parking brake cables and pulleys particularly important.

An aging cable can snap without warning, and nobody has to be present to witness the event! You should also inspect the plastic cable pulleys along the main cable route.



http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... N&page=148


Part number C469: 60-64-FRONT EMERG BRAKE CABLE-114 1/4" NUTS=C469A

Weight: 1 lbs 0 oz
Catalog Pages(s): 148
Price:
1 - 1 $ 25.55
2+ $ 23.55


Also, I recommended a few safety items to keep in the trunk that can be useful if you have to work under the car or have a roadside breakdown at night. Here are a few examples...

Compact jack stands. Never trust a scissors or hydraulic jack if you intend to crawl under the car. Also, unlike modern cars most Corvairs lack emergency flashers. Wheel chocks are a useful safety item that I first discovered bundled with my jack and lug wrench when I owned a Datsun 240Z. I always felt that was a thoughtful idea. For a Powerglide-based Corvair, wheel chocks would provide an extra measure of security when parking on a steep incline. Here are some examples...

Torin T43004 3 Ton Aluminum Jack Stands (Sold in Pairs)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007X ... PDKIKX0DER


Valterra A10-0908 Red Wheel Chock
http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A10-0908 ... 654&sr=1-1


3 FlareAlert 9.1.1 LED Emergency Beacon Flares with Storage Bag
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LQ ... UTF8&psc=1


A bright LED work light can last for many hours on a set of batteries, and can provide essential illumination for nighttime repairs on a dark road.

[Richgj3]

Brad

Thanks for that detailed response.

This 1963 Monza Convertible is a nice driver, not a concourse car. It is silver blue with a white top and a blue interior. Back in the day, 1964 or so we owned a 60 four door Corvair. In 1965 my father bought a new Monza Convertible. In 1968 when I got out of college I bought a used 66 Corsa Convertible, 140 HP.

After that, there were no more Corvair’s in my life until I got interested recently. I have two other collector cars. A 1966 Corvette Convertible 327/350 and a 1968 Corvette coupe, 427/435. I’ve had them for about 16 years. The 66 is a nice driver condition car. The 68 is mostly original with 40K miles.

Mechanically, I have done many things and understand how things work. I’m about to turn 73 and as such would rather pay someone else to do the heavy lifting. The biggest thing I’ve done myself recently is control arm, sway bar and shock bushings on the 68 Vette. Before I ask someone to work on my cars I want to make sure I understand what’s going on.

I was trained as an electrical engineer and worked in telecommunications until my retirement. I hold a commercial pilot license with an instrument rating and I’m a flight instructor for airplane and instrument. I never worked full time at this but did work part time for a few years after retirement.

I have rebuilt an airplane and have done mechanical work on aircraft engines.

This 1963 Corvair has 67K miles on it and claims to have 1500 miles on a rebuilt motor. It runs and drives very nicely. The paint can’t possibly be original, but if it is a repaint it was done a while ago and shows its age in spots. I bought this car at Fall Carlisle and am very happy with it. I recently joined CORSA.

Rich
Brookhaven, LI, NY

[Richgj3]

Brad,

I have all the shop manuals and the CORSA tips ring binder. After the initial reading I was wonder if the universal joints could be the issue. I have the shop that works on my Corvettes lined up to look at it but once again I’d like to be educated on the subject so I can tell if they understand. Not sure what Corvair experience they have.

Rich

[Richgj3]

And I’m familiar with Clark’s.

[64powerglide]

Do you hear the noise if you lightly touch the brakes? I have all new brakes & wheel bearings on my 64 & have a little click, if I touch the brakes it stops. Now I just turn the radio up. Mine sounds like it's coming from the front.

[Richgj3]

Jeff,
Yes. Applying the brakes does not change the sound. I can even hear it when the car is rolling in neutral with the engine off. It’s definitely coming from the left rear.

Front bearings are a lot easier to get to. When we pulled the wheels to check the brakes we cleaned and repacked the front bearings. Also inspected the e brake cable as suggested above.

Thanks for the reply.

Rich

[joelsplace]

I've found that often wheel bearings will get quieter when you hit the brakes because it unloads the bearing. You'll have to unbolt the axle to check the u-joint anyway so you can look at both.

[Richgj3]

Joelsplace

Thanks for the reply. I post what we find. Plan to get after it next week.

Rich G

[64powerglide]

Those 63-64 wheel bearings are a bear to get off, I had to find a guy with a 40 ton press to remove the old ones. They ain't cheap either!!!!