1962 150HP distributor question

[axj7145]

For whatever reason, when I get my distributor dialed in to 24 degrees the pressure retard is positioned with the hose nipple basically pointing strait back towards the rear of the car. Is this the correct position? It seems awfully close to the belt. I'm certain I had the rotor pointing towards the number 1 wire in the cap when I installed it. I mean the car is running like a top it just seems to close to the belt.

Also, does anyone know what the correct weights look like?

Thanks.

[bbodie52]

Set the crankshaft position so that the timing mark is at 24 degrees BTDC and, with the cap off, look to see where the rotor is pointing. With the number one piston at 24 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC) on the compression stroke (Intake and Exhaust valves closed) the rotor should be pointing at the number one cap position as shown in the photo above. (If it is pointing in the wrong direction you are on the number 1 cylinder exhaust stroke. Rotate the crankshaft one more time back to 24 degrees on the timing mark to place it on the compression stroke). If the rotor position is OK, but the distributor housing orientation is incorrect, you can probably obtain the desired housing and cap orientation by simply rotating the distributor housing one cap tower position to place the pressure retard device where you want it (away from the fan belt). Then re-insert the number one spark plug wire to match the rotor location, and then re-insert the remaining spark plug wires for the correct firing sequence. Finally, re-adjust the ignition timing.

If the rotor position is incorrect with the timing mark a 0 degrees on the No. 1 cylinder compression stroke, you may have to pull the distributor out and move the housing and rotor position one drive tooth on the timing gear to reinsert it for proper positioning. (If you have to re-index the timing gear in this manner you may have to turn the oil pump drive at the bottom with a screwdriver to orient it so that the distributor drive shaft tab will engage with the oil pump drive slot when it is properly orientated in relation with the crankshaft drive gear.

The goal is to obtain proper distributor orientation and rotor positioning with the crankshaft at 24 degrees BTDC so that the distributor housing ends up positioned like the one in the picture. Make sure that the plug wires are inserted properly so that wire number 1 is sitting where the rotor is pointing with the crankshaft at 24 degrees BTDC.

The attached shop manual supplement section 1962-1963 Supplement - Chevrolet Corvair Shop Manual - Section 8 - Electrical Systems, page 8-5, provides another explanation on how to insert the distributor properly to engage it properly with the crankshaft and to obtain the proper distributor housing and cap orientation.

[axj7145]

My original thought was I was going to have to turn the oil pump and then move it one tooth. It would appear it is one tooth off. Thank you very much for the information.

[toytron]

That's why we keep Brad on the payroll Lol.

Ed Stevenson

[axj7145]

Last night I pulled the distributor out, turned the oil pump slightly and re installed it. Fit like a glove and it was right on the money. Once again thank you for that detailed information.

The only thing I was still curious on were the weights inside. This whole project started because I wanted the correct part number 1110290 distributor installed because it's correct for the year and it had one out of a 63 turbo installed in the engine (which drove me insane because I'm all about originality). When I had them both out on the bench, I noticed the weights in the 63 distributor were much larger in size than what was in the 62. I didn't know how much that made a difference or not. FYI I did not change the weights, I left them alone.

[66vairguy]

CORSA's Tech guide has a list and pictures of the different weights used in the distributors, but caution is needed. I've found a number of distributors with parts swapped. The springs are very difficult to I.D. Bottom line ---- find someone with a good distributor machine and test it to check the mechanical advance against specifications. Clark's Corvair sells a pamphlet showing all the distributor curves.

Since you are into "originality" you'll find the 62- 63 turbo ignition ballast and coils were different vs. the standard Corvair. The parts were also used on some of the V8 Chevy Hi-Performance engines of the time and were found to shorten the life of the points. GM issued a fix to use the standard 1.8 ohm ballast and a different coil, but oddly never applied the fix to the Corvair. Instead the 64 and later turbo Corvair used a ballast wire in the harness (like the non-turbo Corvairs) and a better coil. In 65 the turbo and 140HP used the same coil. Bob Helt (RIP) did a simple, but fair, test and found the 65 140HP and turbo coil performed better than the Flamethrower coils that were supposedly superior.

Sorry I don't have all the details handy. PM me if you want the part numbers.

[bbodie52]

Tue Aug 21, 2018 8:24 am

The only thing I was still curious on were the weights inside. This whole project started because I wanted the correct part number 1110290 distributor installed because it's correct for the year and it had one out of a 63 turbo installed in the engine (which drove me insane because I'm all about originality). When I had them both out on the bench, I noticed the weights in the 63 distributor were much larger in size than what was in the 62. I didn't know how much that made a difference or not. FYI I did not change the weights, I left them alone.

The chart below compares the specifications for the various turbocharged Corvair model years. It shows that a change was made in 1963 that limited the total centrifugal advance to only 12 degrees instead of 17 degrees that was programmed into the 1962 distributor. The new 1963 specification remained in 1964, but the pressure retard specification changed in that year.

LEFT-CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE FOR BETTER VIEWING...

[miniman82]

Whatever you do, don’t push the engine hard on boost if you hear signs of detonation. It’s a bit like a rattle can of paint being shaken, if you hear that get off the gas.