Turbo Exhaust Question

[miniman82]

Header wrap=busted exhaust pipes

Ask me how I know...

[Skrain]

Header wrap=busted exhaust pipes

Ask me how I know...

Somehow, I get the feeling it was from personal experience!
Drove about 100 miles today, the longest single day since I got the car. No real problems. A little trouble with a low idle in the afternoon, and seemed to run a touch rough, but not really bad.Perhaps the points need some attention.
Going to go to an electronic ignition when i can afford it.
One question...when sort of coasting down a hill in gear, is it normal to hear a little "burbling" and "popping" from the exhaust? Not backfiring, just a gentle burbling.

[Skrain]

Here are some shots of the engine room with the proper turbo cover mounted!
I think I got the last one in captivity from California Corvairs!
Clark's didn't have any listed as being available, so I assume since it was a one year part, they are VERY hard to find!

[Skrain]

Well, an update. When we were working on the busted u-joint, and tightening all the nuts and bolts on the underside up to spec, we found that the ENTIRE exhaust system had been wrapped in asbestos(?) cloth, and covered with sheet metal!
We took ALL of it off and I noticed when I took the car to see about getting the paint dings in the door fixed (ANOTHER story!!! ), the head temps were down a good 25* or 30*!
Also, it seemed that it didn't ping or knock going up the small mountain between here and town! I bet the lower exhaust temps might have had something to do with that as well!

[doctorwire]

Hi all. Just wondering, is there some sort of insulation or a wrap of some sort on the exhaust inlet pipe going into the turbo on a 140 HP engine?
At least I'm assuming it's the inlet side, the single pipe that comes up through the engine cover and feeds directly into the turbo under the chrome/stainless cover.
Also, how does that cover mount tightly? Mine is a bit loose, and I'm wondering if that might be the source of some odd knocks and jingling/rattling from somewhere in the engine room.

Just wanted to clarify something for you:
The turbo inlet is under the turbo. The turbo is sitting on it. The pipe covered with the shield is outlet to the muffler.
Cheers!

[miniman82]

Well, an update. When we were working on the busted u-joint, and tightening all the nuts and bolts on the underside up to spec, we found that the ENTIRE exhaust system had been wrapped in asbestos(?) cloth, and covered with sheet metal! We took ALL of it off and I noticed when I took the car to see about getting the paint dings in the door fixed (ANOTHER story!!!), the head temps were down a good 25* or 30*! Also, it seemed that it didn't ping or knock going up the small mountain between here and town! I bet the lower exhaust temps might have had something to do with that as well!

You'll get an extra 50*F bonus if you take the lower air shrouds around the exhaust logs off, if you haven't already done so. Can't say if it's an actual bonus or if the shrouds just hold extra heat next to the head temp sensor, but if the gauge shows less I'm all for it.

On the other side of the coin, when I lived in Chicago I couldn't get the air doors to open in winter no matter how hard I drove it. I think the highest I could get the head temps was 250*F or so, low engine temps can be just as much of a problem as high temps. Cabin heat really sucks with 250*F head temps, lemme tell ya!

[Skrain]

I'm in a fairly moderate temperature area here in Southern Kentucky, so having it hold around 400* or slightly less is fine by me.
The less I have to fiddle with the shrouds and the sheet metal, the happier I am.
We usually peak out in the high 80s and the occasional low 90s during the summer, so it's not like I'm in southern Texas or in Florida, dealing with 90s for 3-4 months of the year!
I used to live in Florida, so I DO know how hot it can get there!
Also, we can get cold enough for it to snow and freeze here, so having heat is a good thing, especially in a convertible!

[miniman82]

They aren't a pain to remove at all, and IMO it's worth it. I like to see less than 400*F all the time, I think mine hovered around 375 with the lowers off. 400 doesn't leave you much margin for error, if you suddenly need to accelerate- you're right at the danger zone. If you're a conservative driver it likely won't matter, but I drive like an asshat in my car. So if I can't get into boost at will, I'm not happy. lol

[MBlaster1]

The lower shrouds are not hard to take off or put on you could take them off in summer and put them back on in winter. LOL

[Skrain]

O.K., any pics on how to drop the shrouds?
Also, a couple of basic questions...what IS the proper head temp for a 64 Spyder Turbo, and, when downshifting, what is the recommended R.P.M. operating range for the engine?

[bbodie52]

The lower shroud is fairly easy to remove, if you have removed ALL of the attachment screws. In addition to the 6 bottom-facing small bolts that screw into aluminum engine parts, there are several small sheet-metal screws that must be removed, and the thermostat rod must be detached from each rear door after removing the clip.

I have attached extracts from the shop manual and assembly manual to guide you. The Shop Manual specifically addresses removal of the lower shrouds on page 6-15.

[miniman82]

what IS the proper head temp for a 64 Spyder Turbo

Below 400*F.

Above 400, things can get hairy in a hurry. Let's say for example you're at 400, and about to climb a grade. You will quickly find your head temp gauge rocketing past 450*, and the engine will protest. High loads and high temps are a recipe for disaster, add boost to the equation and it's lights out for sure if you don't know what detonation sounds like and how to avoid it. Take the same situation beginning at 325 or 350*F, you'll be able to climb farther before having an issue because you're starting at a lower temp and the lowers removed means better cooling airflow.

All of this assumes your gauge is accurate, which they never are. They are used more to alert you to a departure from normal readings than anything else, if you want an accurate head temp you must go aftermarket unfortunately.