play in the front end

[jwarren]

Over the past year I have replaced on my 66 Monza Convertible, the pitman arm bushing with a Clark's kit, replaced the sway bar bushings, had an alignment and still have excessive play in the steering wheel. When I had the alignment done at a local shop that has a good reputation, the mechanic saw nothing wrong. He said old cars are just not as tight as modern cars. I have studied the shop manual and still cant figure out what the problem is. I have had a helper turn the wheel back and forth and see no excessive play on the various components. Perhaps a slight bit between the input from the steering wheel to what comes out on the pitman arm The steering box appears to be newer than other components on the car. I am thinking that it is a replacement.

[rv6aaviator]

What do you term excessive play is? On my 63 I just rebuilt the front suspension, steering, new shocks, tires and a correct 4 wheel alignment. The car is as tight as its ever been and I still have a little play in the steering wheel. I estimate that I can move the wheel about 3/8" to 1/2" either way while driving and not much happens. It's true that older cars seem to have what I can only explain as "not quite as tight" feel.

[UNSAFE]

If the steering wheel moves but the pitman arm doesn't the play is in the steering box .

There is an adjustment screw under the plastic plug in the trunk . You may be able to remove some play by adjusting it .

Also make sure the wheel bearings are tight enough .

[jwarren]

I have about 3" of play. I am going to recheck the wheel/ptiman play again

[Jerry Whitt]

The previous reply showing a picture of the steering box is in the right area. Inside the trunk area, strait in front of the driver on the floor of the trunk is
a rubber plug. Remove the plug and you will find a lock nut with a flat blade screw head sticking up. This is the adjustment. Loosen the lock nut.
Then turn the adjusting screw a little bit at a time. You should feel the screw adjuster get tighter. Lock the adjustment with the lock nut. Now feel
for steering wheel play. It should be less than before. If good, stop. If still not quite right, adjust a little more.

[jwarren]

When I bought the car, it looked like the steering box was new or had been repaired due to its shinny exterior in relation to the other front end components. I asked the alignment guy about tightening the screw and he said to leave it alone. I always thought that it was worth a try.

[flat6_musik]

[bbodie52]

The steering box adjustments, as described in the shop manual, are a little more involved than previously described.

Left-click with your mouse on the image to enlarge it for better viewing...

I have attached the appropriate section of the 1965 Corvair Chassis Shop Manual, which includes all of the illustrations and references.

[Jerry Whitt]

Finding an inch pound torque wrench might be a bit of a chore.

[bbodie52]

I just did a search on eBay for "inch pound torque wrench" and got 149 hits.

They are also available all over Amazon.com, through Sears Craftsman tools, and at numerous other tool suppliers. I also found they are useful when rebuilding a Corvair engine, because the smaller 3/8" drive head will fit in the cases, around the crankshaft, and will allow you to torque the connecting rod nuts. I've had my Craftsman inch pound torque wrench since 1969.

On the Corvair engine, the smaller torque wrench is also useful when torquing smaller bolts into the aluminum engine components, such as around the perimeter of the oil pan. The small-capacity torque wrench helps to prevent stripped aluminum threads, broken bolts, and helps to prevent over-tightening the oil pan — potentially deforming the oil pan sheet metal around the bolt head, and crushing it into the thick gasket. This causes oil pan leaks on the Corvair, made even worse since on a Corvair all of the oil sits in the crankcase above the flat oil pan and oil pan seal gasket, rather than in an oil pan trough below the gasket, as with most engine designs.



Only $13.13 at Sears

[bishop1073]

looks like I know that my next tool purchase is.. :)

[bbodie52]

Don't forget anti-seize compound on those aluminum threads. It is highly recommended. One container lasts a long time... I still have the one I bought when I was 16 in 1969!

See NEW MECHANICS: Engine Rebuilding & Maintenance Tips.

Corvair Forum viewtopic.php?f=225&t=4064

[UNSAFE]

You do not need a torque wrench to adjust the steering box free-play .

Just loosen nut with wrench and turn adjuster screw with a screwdriver . Adjust a little at a time and avoid going too far . Check for play.

Most of the free-play will be near the center position and going too tight may cause some binding at other positions .

If the adjuster screw is protruding several threads above the nut it likely has not been adjusted previously and you might get lucky.

If the screw is nearly flush with the nut it has likely been adjusted already and is probably worn out

[jwarren]

Thanks. Been busy working with my son on his 69 Jeep pickup. There"s still a lot left sticking out.

[terribleted]

Thanks. Been busy working with my son on his 69 Jeep pickup. There"s still a lot left sticking out.

That is probably a good sign. If it is flush or below the box is likely no good like Unsafe said.

A buddy of mine came to me the other day complaining of shake and steering slop. His box was so loose that the end of the shaft would wobble around a nearly 1/4" if we pushed a front wheel while jacked. His idler arm was also shot (likely a result of the very loose steering box). We looked at the adjusting nut. The shaft was almost turned in all the way thru the lock nut, confirming that the steering box was trashed.