Massive oil leak

[TheBusDriver]

I just changed the oil for the first time. After fighting the oil filter seal I got that to stop leaking.

Took it for a drive and had a massive oil leak while out on a drive. It appears to be from the oil pressure switch. It's kinda bubbling out near the plate by the pressure switch. If this is the case, do I need a special tool to tighten it? Or does it need replaced?

[jimbrandberg]

There is a special socket but I tightened plenty with a pliers before I had one.
It's odd that I can't seem to see the the oil pressure switch in the picture, I'm assuming the fuel inlet line is in the way.
The gasket (C483A) for the alternator mount could be the culprit too.
The sender is C484 from Clarks but you can get one locally.

[TheBusDriver]

You can see the switch in this picture, I disconnected it and tried to turn it but I can't grab it so I'll probably grab the tool tomorrow.

It seems like it's coming from the area around the arrow with the bolt in picture

it's a 1964 I always forget to add that.

[Dennis66]

Recently worked on a 64 for a friend. Sender on that one started leaking. Of the 4 or 5 senders I had, none worked or they leaked. bought a sender from Autozone (one day order) and the socket too.

[TheBusDriver]

I have the switch changed out. I had to pull the generator out and now I can’t get the back bolt (towards front of car) in with the fan on. The fan won’t go on after because the fuel line is in the way. This generator design is real silly, and I’m feeling really discouraged.

[Wittsend]

I have the switch changed out. I had to pull the generator out and now I can’t get the back bolt (towards front of car) in with the fan on. The fan won’t go on after because the fuel line is in the way. This generator design is real silly, and I’m feeling really discouraged.

I assume "with the fan on" you are referring to the fan belt? There is an ADJUSTBLE idler pulley across from the generator pulley. With that loosened and moved forward the belt will slacken and the generator should bolt in. BTW, the generator is intended to be non-adjustable. It just bolts in at one position. Tension is set by pulling the idler pulley backwards. The tension is debatable but the general consensus is that the generator fan can be rotated counterclockwise (backwards) when pulled with one finger.

[TheBusDriver]

I have the switch changed out. I had to pull the generator out and now I can’t get the back bolt (towards front of car) in with the fan on. The fan won’t go on after because the fuel line is in the way. This generator design is real silly, and I’m feeling really discouraged.

I assume you mean "with the fan on" you are referring to the fan belt? There is an ADJUSTBLE idler pulley across from the generator pulley. With that loosened and moved forward the belt will slacken and the generator should bolt in. BTW, the generator is intended to be non-adjustable. It just bolts in at one position. Tension is set by pulling the idler pulley backwards. The tension is debatable but the general consensus is that the generator fan can be rotated counterclockwise (backwards) when pulled with one finger.

I have the tensioner pulley loose and the belt disconnected.
I’m referring to the generator fan. I can’t access the bolts with because the fan is in the way. I can’t put the fan on after because the fuel line is in the way.

[Wittsend]

I see, yes, the bolts can take an odd assortment of sockets, ratchets, extensions and universals and it still could be difficult. My Lakewood has the oil pressure sender in the block (passenger side) and without shrouds easy to access. Plus I have an electric fuel pump (stock FP removed and plugged), the fuel lines moved and easier access. You have my sympathies and my apology. It slips my mind how easy I have it.

[TheBusDriver]

[Frank DuVal]

Edit: Oh, I see, you did remove the nut!

I truly have no idea how you got the generator off it has the 1964 generator cooling fan!

The little blades are shrouded by a very large plate which covers the generator mounting bolt heads.

Consult the shop manual first! Of course I did my learning the hard way too as in "that's so simple a task, why look in the shop manual?" School Of Hard Knocks they call it.

And it is available online here:

https://www.corvair.org/chapters/corvan ... anuals.php

You want to read the 1961 shop manual and the 1964 Supplement.

You will want to order these in paper form too, as the pictures will be better. They are reproduced for little money compared to modern shop manuals!

On a true 64 generator with the large backed fan you have to remove the generator nut and fan to access the bolts. There is a 1963 generator fan pulley with a smaller back section that almost lets you get to the bolt heads. This might be the generator fan you have.

Oh, BTW, the Corvair generator (not alternator) fan/pulley nut is left hand thread from the factory. Now, a normal GM car armature will fit, so sometimes the nut is right handed, just to make life difficult! Best to follow the exposed threads to find out. Then there is the how do you hold the fan to loosen or tighten the nut. NOT by the blades! They fold quick, then break off, making the fan unbalanced with dire results after a while .

Fuel line moves easy, but you do need to buy some "line wrenches" "flare nut wrenches"*. A 1/2" for the incoming fuel line and a 9/16" open end to hold the brass adapter on the fuel pump from turning. NO PTFE tape on flare fittings. It will tighten back up fine (99.99% of the time).

The very first oil pressure switch socket I bought fit the switch w/o removing the generator/fan/pulley/fuel line. That was of course 50 years ago. Then I saw people struggling and saw the sockets were large! Not decrease diameter near square drive end. I did put some of those sockets in a lathe and got them to look like my original SK. Now I know most people do not have a lathe... I used the one at work, shh!

Oh, and even the SK one fits the switch at a slight angle, with nothing removed, but grips enough to work.

So I understand why you did what you did. Lesson learned. You are now a member of the school of hard knocks!


*this is a tool I would not buy at Harbor Freight. The "old" Craftsman (as in USA made) and Husky work fine. Even better is the Snap-On RXS series! Buy them used of course.

[Wittsend]

Oh, yea, and add oil filler to the list of things the Lakewood doesn't have in the way. Not trying to be obnoxious but have you considered a wagon with an electric fuel pump (manual pump delete)? Given my situation I think others will be more helpful. There has to be some combination of tool to get the job done. How did you get it out in the first place? Can you put the problem bolt closest to the fan shroud in first by tilting it upward, forward and tightening (at least snugging it) and then do the other bolts?

Fuel Pump Delete.JPG (39.53 KiB) Viewed 161 times

[TheBusDriver]

Frank I read it was a 10 minute job and I was like oh I'll do it on my lunch. I sometimes go in head first and then figure stuff out.

LONG story short. I got it back together. It seems like every time I touch this thing It makes it worse.

It now has a weird ticking issue and I may have over tightened the tensioner pulley as it made a pop noise when I tightened it.

On to the oil leak. It's better but continues. It's coming from the arrow.

[TheBusDriver]

I let it run for a bit and the oil level didn't change. But it was seeping out of the top shroud. I think it's fixed it's just hard too tell because there is so much oil everywhere. The oil switch is not leaking. and the oil filter isn't leaking.

I'm gonna take it for a rip around the neighborhood and see what's what.

[TheBusDriver]

Well the test drive went well, I will take it on a longer one tomorrow. Fingers crossed

[Frank DuVal]

Excellent work!

You should just pull on the idler pulley with your hand, not a tool (until you get a feel for it and older where you can't pull as well anymore....But enough about me). Just pull back on the idler until you can just turn the generator pulley with one finger pulling on a generator fan blade. This was learned by Corvair owners after years of overtightening belts and wearing bearings and belts. More of that school of hard knocks thing.

The oil will be seeping out of that shroud for a while. Wipe it up and drive on, keeping a check on the level.

Usually one looks at the engine while it is running to figure out the oil leak and the faulty switch squirts oil in your eye!