Rear Wheel Driver Side

[JoeW1962Turbo]

Greetings
I was driving my 62 Spyder Convertible, I just purchased, this was my first drive and it was running well. Suddenly, I heard a noise that sounded like something mechanical giving way and when rolling forward produces a loud thump seemingly with each tire rotation. Lifted the rear and the drivers side wheel wobbles when moving from side to side. It also produces the thump irregularly as the tire is manually rotated. Looking at the wheel one stud is new and longer than the other 3 which look original. I removed the lug nuts abut could not get the tire off. I'm sure I can with extraordinary effort (and a sledgehammer) but I didn't want to risk it by the side of the road. I'm having it towed home.
Any ideas what the problem is and what parts I need to repair it?
Thanks in Advance
Joe

[joelsplace]

If the lug nuts/studs are not loose you have a failed wheel bearing. I guess the u-joint could have let go. Did you lose drive power? If not, wheel bearing. If yes look at the u-joint/yoke.

[JoeW1962Turbo]

Joelsplace
The lug nuts were still tight and the car would still move forward when I released the clutch. It just made a clanking noise as the wheel rotated. I did then Pull the lug nuts but the tire would not come off without hammering it from behind so I left it alone until I get the parts I need. You think the wheel bearing and it makes good sense but should I order the yoke/u-joint and how about the axle? Thoughts?
Thanks
Joe

[joelsplace]

I wouldn't order anything until you get under there and look at it. It should be obvious since it has slop. The u-joint is at the transmission and the wheel bearing is out at the wheel. The u-joint is cheap but the wheel bearing is $$$.
You'll probably want to get an axle seal too since you'll be in there.

[jimbrandberg]

I would figure out what's bad rather than ordering everything.
Usually I check the wheel bearing after removing the drum so I can grasp the wheel flange. I feel for play in and out play in the bearing as well as a growly sort of feel.
You can check the u-joint somewhat by grasping the axle with one hand and the yoke with the other.
Early wheel bearings are expensive and a little difficult to deal with. It requires a hydraulic press or something and there's shims and such. The bearing is barrel shaped and unique.
I suppose another possibility for a noise would be the yoke splines where they go in the differential but I wouldn't expect it to be wobbly.
It's not unheard of to have to hit a wheel from the backside to get it off if it's been on there a while.
I'm sorry to hear that you're having trouble with a new car and hope it will get better for you once you work through a few things.
You can trade the axle in at Clarks or probably Corvair Corvairs for one with a new bearing installed if you don't want to do it yourself or have a shop that's handy. You often need a puller to get the yoke off the axle in order to pull it out.
I'm anxious to hear what you find.

[kmart356]

Take a good look at the back side of the drum/backing plate - might be an indication that something came loose such as bearing retainer nuts. If those nuts are loose, the end of the axle could flop and be causing the noise... maybe?
The axle & yoke assembly (shown on right of illustration) could also be tested as already mentioned.
Once you get the rear end up and safely on stands, that wheel needs to come off to do further investigating by removing the brake drum.

rear axle view.jpg (20.99 KiB) Viewed 1319 times

[Dennis66]

It should go without saying that this is a good time to check the OTHER side as well.

[Gasman63]

If the wheel hasn't been off in years it could rust itself on to the flange. Using a rubber mallet you can hit the rim on the inside to break it loose. Try not to hit right where the bead of the tire seats as bending that is not good. I recommend putting on a couple lug nuts loosely so the wheel don't go bouncing off anything important when it come off.

Sounds like a bearing issue to me. The shaft isn't hard to remove. Its just hard on the wallet getting a new bearing installed on the axle shaft.

[Frank DuVal]

My crystal ball seems to be broken, so I cannot see where you are to know if help is available in your area. Lots of people around that like to help.

Eyes on a problem are the best, next is pictures.

[erco]

That's a BUMMER of a first drive. Good advice here already, hope you get it sorted out quickly.

[RexJohnson]

To get the wheel loose put the lug nuts back on but leave them a turn or two loose. Now drive or push the car slowly (if driven) in some circles until the wheel comes loose. This is a GM Tech Tip from years ago.

[JoeW1962Turbo]

Greetings all and Happy Holidays
I removed the rear wheel and was able to see the problem causing the clunking while driving. It looks like the U joint is in bad shape (see picture). Any guidance as to the best replacement approach? I assume the whole axle needs to come off and I would guess I should check the other side as well. Any other fun hints
Thanks
Joe

[Dennis66]

No.
> You jack and support the rear of the car.
> Remove left rear wheel and brake drum. There will be a hole in the axle hub to access the 4 backing plate nuts / bolts,
remove the 4 bolts. This will allow the axle to slide out
> Remove the 4 U bolt nuts at the U-joint (shown in your picture. Separate axle yoke (with axle) from U-joint. Pull axle out just far enough to clear.
> Pull U-joint and inner yoke from differential. It should just slip out. Have a clean pan to catch any axle fluid that may leak out
> Remove U-joint just like replacing one in a regular driveshaft.
> Might want to check condition of axle outer bearing while axle is disconnected.

[Tramp61]

If you just purchased this car I would also advise to check the level of gear oil in the differential once you have made repairs to the u joints and it is all back together. When you remove the axle the yoke will come out of the differential. There is a fill plug just a little toward the front of where the axle comes out on the drivers side of the car where you check and add gear oil. If needed, top off the gear oil until it reaches the level of this hole. Make sure the car is level, left to right, and be certain that it is up to the level of the bottom of that hole. This is often neglected and leads to very expensive repairs to rebuild the differential if it is driven with little or no oil. Welcome to Corvair repair and maintenance!

[Dennis66]

I thought about mentioning that as well as checking the seal where the yoke goes in (but it appears clean in the picture). Also note: GL-4 if manual trans (differential and transmission share fluid) can be GL-4 or Gl-5 if automatic.

[Wagon Master]

The check/fill plug is just to the REAR of where the axle slides in. Its the square headed 3/4" pipe plug visible in your picture. Even though they share fluid, check the transmission fluid level at the large hex headed plug in the sheet metal side cover on the drivers side of the transmission.