LCA Bushing Orientation

[Aaron65]

I've had an issue with my LCA bushings on my '65 (they're pushing out the rubber and I'm getting a steel on steel squeak). I replaced a bad one that was 15 years old last fall and the new bushing is already toasted, so I'm double checking things.

Does the bushing enter the passenger LCA from the back side (the side with the sway bar bracket) or the front side?

It looks like I could technically put it in either way, but I also don't want to do it wrong, because this is one of those minor pain in the rear jobs to be doing over all the time. Thanks!

[RexJohnson]

Its been awhile but I believe that the control arm and bushing are both stepped so that they only go in one way?

[Aaron65]

I should have done this first, but I just watched one of Dave's videos and he discussed it at length. Thanks Dave, and thanks Rex.

[66vairguy]

I've had an issue with my LCA bushings on my '65 (they're pushing out the rubber and I'm getting a steel on steel squeak). I replaced a bad one that was 15 years old last fall and the new bushing is already toasted, so I'm double checking things.

Does the bushing enter the passenger LCA from the back side (the side with the sway bar bracket) or the front side?

It looks like I could technically put it in either way, but I also don't want to do it wrong, because this is one of those minor pain in the rear jobs to be doing over all the time. Thanks!

This LM lower front suspension arm bushing problem is an OLD problem. I checked my notes and the complaints about the Clark's LM lower control arm bushing coming apart started in 2014!!!! More than one person complained and Clark's response was that the bushing WAS NEVER VULCANIZED SO THE RUBBER IS NOT BONDED. I found this was NOT TRUE after locating some NOS bushing that are indeed vulcanized (rubber bonded to inner and outer steel units). Yes they were OLD rubber, but I put them in and so far NO problems in almost a decade.

Keep in mind LIKE MOST SUSPENSION bushing, you SHOULD NOT tighten down the bushing bolts UNTIL the car is setting level!!!!! If you tighten the bolts while the wheels hang down, then rubber will be under twist force when you lower the car and this will cause an early failure!!

Another problem is folks collapse the lower arm installing the bushing, then the arm "walks" back and forth in the suspension member.

[Aaron65]

Thanks! I read some of your previous posts about that, and I do tighten the bushing with weight on the front end. What torque value do you use to tighten the camber nut? The manual says something like 110 ft./lbs., and that has to be a misprint. The last time I torqued it to 65 or 70.

[66vairguy]

Thanks! I read some of your previous posts about that, and I do tighten the bushing with weight on the front end. What torque value do you use to tighten the camber nut? The manual says something like 110 ft./lbs., and that has to be a misprint. The last time I torqued it to 65 or 70.

Your welcome -

Great question!! The 1966 shop manual supplement CORRECTS the 1965 shop manual specification. In 65 it was 90 - 120 ft. lbs!!!! In the 1966 supplemental is is stated as 80ft. lbs. NOTE the stock eccentric bolt has the eccentric at the head welded in place. The bolt is ONLY cut down for the eccentric on the nut side, BUT the shaft is round (full diameter). The Clark's bolts are cut down ALL THE WAY to the head to get the both eccentrics on!!! I AM NOT SAYING THE CLARK'S BOLTS ARE AN ISSUE, but out West the stock eccentric bolts are usually good so that is what I use.

BTW -- 80 ft. lbs. is required. I have seen the this adjustment slip if not torqued to 80 ft. lbs. (alignment shops are notorious for NOT torquing the LM front and rear eccentric nuts.

The rear camber arm eccentric nut is 85-95 ft. lbs. and I use 90 ft. lbs. Clark's tech sheet says the rear is 70 - 90 ft. lbs.