Carbs / gas tank / rust

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Mcwho
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Carbs / gas tank / rust

Post by Mcwho »

After realizing i had issues with my carbs, monza 110. The in carb filters were fillled with rust particles. So i am having them rebuilt. I am concerned about the rust. Is there a way to ckean and seal the fuel tank without completely replacing the gas tank.

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1965 Corvair Monza Coupe 110, 4 speed, Liberty Blue

joelsplace
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Re: Carbs / gas tank / rust

Post by joelsplace »

There are lots of different ways to clean a tank. Radiator shops can often do it for you, there are various ways to use acids to remove rust, the way I like is electrolysis. There are also various ways to coat or plate it after it is clean. I'm not a fan of coatings. If your time is worth anything a new one is the way to go.
113 Corvairs, 5 Ultravans and counting
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bbodie52
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Re: Carbs / gas tank / rust

Post by bbodie52 »

Brand new gas tanks are better than the original new tank was. Why go through all the hassle of trying to salvage a 50+ year-old rusty tank? A new replacement is not that expensive. The labor to remove/restore/replace the original tank or to simply install a new tank makes the new tank look pretty good! Don't forget to replace the old hoses, clamps, and mounting straps and hardware.

Image

New Gas Tanks: 1961–69 Cars - Gas tanks usually rust from the inside and start to leak. These are EXACT REPROS made from "GAS TANK STEEL" that Is thicker than the originals. Pressure tested, wrapped and boxed.

Part number C151: 61-69 CAR GAS TANK-MUST ORDER NEW GASKET *C155 (CAN'T REUSE)-SUG RETAINER(C156)& HOSES

Weight: 40 lbs 0 oz
Catalog Page(s): 69
Price:
1 - 1 $ 178.30
2+ $ 172.95



HERE IS SOME SUPPLEMENTAL MATERIAL TO ADD TO THE ABOVE EXCELLENT GUIDELINES AND PROCEDURAL ADVICE...

You may find this Dave Motohead video helpful...

OPTIONAL: In the above video, he mentioned that front suspension removal makes it easier. Here is his video on how to remove the front suspenson from a late model Corvair...


I had the same thing happen on my 1965 Corsa years ago -- the filler neck hose develops a leak, which is not noticeable except when the tank is full, which brings the fuel level to the point where the fuel is high enough to reach into the filler neck. Then you see signs of the fuel leak. Once you drive far enough for the fuel level to drop down below the filler neck, the leak disappears. The repair parts are cheap, but installing them is a pain!

If you are certain that the filler neck is the culprit, you might as well go ahead and order the hose, clamps, etc. from Clark's so that you have them on-hand when you are ready to perform the repair. You might also want to consider buying a few additional items to do a complete fuel tank service while you are going through the process anyway, such as Item 2A (C261 - Fuel Tank Strainer). You also might consider the condition of the fuel tank mounting strap, nuts and special bolts. If the old units are rusted, corroded or in poor condition, new stainless steel bolts, Item 5 (C1494) and possibly a new strap, Item 4 (C153E or C153R) might be appropriate. Also, if you intend to remove the gauge sending unit to finish draining the tank and to replace the probably decayed fuel tank strainer, you should order a replacement gauge gasket seal, Item 3 (C155).

:wrench: I have attached diagrams from the 1965 Corvair Assembly Manual to illustrate the tank installation, and also attached the section of the 1961 Corvair Shop Manual and 1964 Shop Manual Supplement, as well as the 1965 Corvair Chassis Shop Manual (in Adobe Reader format) that will provide you with procedures for removal and repair of the fuel tank.

If the hose is leaking, it requires a special size hose as shown on the second page of the Clark's Corvair Parts catalog, as shown below...

:link: http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... IN&page=69
Image

:link: http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... IN&page=70
Image

Part number C1045: HOSE-60-69 CARS GAS TANK FILLER NECK *ENOUGH FOR ONE TANK, CLAMPS=C1044 2 NEEDED

Weight: 0 lbs 2 oz
Catalog Pages(s): 70(8)
Price: $ 7.85
Image

Part number C1044: CLAMP,GAS TANK INLET HOSE (ALL STAINLESS =C8208)

Weight: 0 lbs 2 oz
Catalog Pages(s): 36B,70(11)
Price: $ 1.30
Image

Image

Image

Image
Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible

joelsplace
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Re: Carbs / gas tank / rust

Post by joelsplace »

I keep a tank on the shelf along with EM and LM senders and the filler hoses.
113 Corvairs, 5 Ultravans and counting
Northlake, TX

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terribleted
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Re: Carbs / gas tank / rust

Post by terribleted »

Not worth the cost and effort to remove clean and reuse an old tank in my opinion. New tanks are only $180, so replace with new is the best answer.
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
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66vairguy
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Re: Carbs / gas tank / rust

Post by 66vairguy »

Buy a new gas tank!!

I haven't found a radiator shop that will clean a gas tank now due to the expense of hazardous material disposal.

As you've discovered the carburetor "stones" are not that effective and if plugged the spring lets fuel by-pass them. Install an inline generic metal case fuel filter on the rubber line, either up by the tank or back before the bulkhead.

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Mcwho
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Re: Carbs / gas tank / rust

Post by Mcwho »

My monza has an electric fuel pump right near the connector to the fuel tank. There is a rubber hose loop right there that connects that loop to a metal fuel line.
Image%20(2).jpeg
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1965 Corvair Monza Coupe 110, 4 speed, Liberty Blue

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azdave
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Re: Carbs / gas tank / rust

Post by azdave »

Until you can get a new tank, put in a generously large metal-cased fuel filter either at the tank outlet or above the rear axle where the two fuel lines have a short section of rubber hose between the body line and the engine line.
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Re: Carbs / gas tank / rust

Post by 66vairguy »

That "little" filter on the front of the electric fuel pump will plug up fast with a dirty tank (typical on AirTex or Carter pumps). I toss it and just use a fitting with the metal canister fuel filter AZDAVE illustrated. A common fuel filter, BUT DO NOT USE THE PLASTIC CASE VERSION!!!

joelsplace
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Re: Carbs / gas tank / rust

Post by joelsplace »

That little filter is there to protect the pump. Not a good idea to remove it unless you are going to protect it some other way.
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Re: Carbs / gas tank / rust

Post by terribleted »

Mcwho wrote:
Mon Oct 05, 2020 9:58 am
My monza has an electric fuel pump right near the connector to the fuel tank. There is a rubber hose loop right there that connects that loop to a metal fuel line.Image%20(2).jpeg

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You should rework this setup. The rubber hose making an S bend like that is asking for trouble. Hoses do not make good 180 turns in a small radius and will kink off eventually. I would either redo what it there with a piece of steel line bent to make the shape turns and joined to fuel pump and tank outlet with small rubber joiner hoses or move the fuel pump behind the steel wall that is behind it and route hose and again use a steel line piece for any sharp bend. I usually mount my pump behind the bulkhead and shorten the main body line. I run a connecting hose from the pump outlet thru a new hole in the side of the tunnel wall using a grommet to protect it and join it to the shortened main body line inside the tunnel . I use a tubing bender and a piece of 5/16 steel line to bend a piece to run from fuel pump input to the tank, joining with 2 short rubber joiners and clamps. I form my steel line to fit up close to the fuel pump filter inlet and also the fuel tank outlet. There is a good size hole in the bulkhead already out near the subframe that I use to pass the line thru. To make sure it is protect from from rubbing on the steel I make a protector grommet by splitting a length of 3/8 rubber hose to position over the edge of the steel bulkhead hole. a little weather strip adhesive and getting just the right length on the piece keeps it in place nicely. Behind the bulkhead the pump is more protected from possible impact by road debris as well.
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erco
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Re: Carbs / gas tank / rust

Post by erco »

I'm a hardhead and cheapskate, I just spent way too much time, energy & money to saving my tank. De-rusted with 2 gallons of Evapo-Rust and used RedKote sealer. The final product turned out well and I will use it but if I knew then what I know now I would have just bought a new tank. Amazon recently had 'em for $180 but just jumped to $200+. Autozone sells them for $180, I'm sure special order.https://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/ ... et/corvair

When I get a chance I will make a post about the process I used. Biggest surprises:

1) Tank interior will flash rust IMMEDIATELY after derusting, I waited too long and had to derust twice, another 2 gallons of EvapoRust. You need to allocate several days to the process, turning the tank in all orientions to get the Evaporust everywhere. Final full day is quite busy, when you dump Evaporust, rinse out, degrease and seal the first coat.
2) 2 quarts MINIMUM of Red Kote required. Clark's says one will do 2 coats but they are smoking crack. I put 2 quarts in for the first coat, tilted around for an HOUR, one quart came out. That quart went in the following day for the second coat, nary a drop came out.

I also derusted & redkoted my gas filler tube. I'm planning to clean out my steel fuel line by circulating some fresh EvapoRust through it, likely using a small aquarium pump running for a whole day. Immediately afterward, rinse out with gas and keep it full of gas to avoid rust.
Last edited by erco on Sat Oct 10, 2020 1:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

joelsplace
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Re: Carbs / gas tank / rust

Post by joelsplace »

That is strange I've never had anything flash rust after using Evaporust. Everything I've used it on seems to resist rust like it leaves something behind.
113 Corvairs, 5 Ultravans and counting
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erco
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Re: Carbs / gas tank / rust

Post by erco »

I've had just the opposite experience. Evapo-Rust does a good job of rust removal after 8-12 hours, then I rinse thoroughly in hot water. Bolt threads, vice grips and gas tanks start re-rusting immediately, especially after degreasing the tank with purple power & water.

Are you just wiping the evaporust off instead of rinsing? There is a slimy coating to it which may prevent rust.

All of the Youtube videos I have watched about cleaning tanks before warn about flash rust. "Not to be truffled with," as Michael Scott would say.

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Re: Carbs / gas tank / rust

Post by terribleted »

erco wrote:
Fri Oct 09, 2020 3:01 pm
I'm a headhead and cheapskate, I just spent way too much time, energy & money to saving my tank. De-rusted with 2 gallons of Evapo-Rust and used RedKote sealer. The final product turned out well and I will use it but if I knew then what I know now I would have just bought a new tank. Amazon recently had 'em for $180 but just jumped to $200+. Autozone sells them for $180, I'm sure special order.https://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/ ... et/corvair

I try to let people know this. Not a lot of savings over a new tank especially if you value your time at all. If it stays together you saved some dollars. if not you wasted some dollars and your time.....time will tell. I have used Redcoat in the past and when I used it it stayed put for at least a few years. I have seen tank sealers peeled off in tanks before. Often look like sheet of latex peeled off and laying in the bottom.
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/

Located in Snellville, Georgia

joelsplace
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Re: Carbs / gas tank / rust

Post by joelsplace »

I just rinse with water and it is amazing how rust resistant things are that would normally flash rust.
113 Corvairs, 5 Ultravans and counting
Northlake, TX

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