Stiff clutch pedal

[my65]

My clutch pedal is stiff and catches very close to the floor. I have tried adjusting the linkage but no major improvement. The transmission disengages and shifts ok with just a little clutch chatter if the rpms are high when you start out. If I remove the clutch rod from the cross shaft, the pedal is smooth and feels like my other Vair.
I removed the engine and separates the transaxle looking for my problem. The retaining clip on the throw out bearing fork to the bell housing pivot ball needed to be closed up. That was done and now the fork returns toward the transaxle when operated and holds the throw out bearing nicely. The clutch rod ( Clark’s part c991r from page 114 ) has a bend or kink on the end that attaches to the throw out bearing fork. Does anyone have a sketch or drawing of this part. Should it be straight?? Could the cross shaft be a source of excessive resistance??
I will be putting in a reworked flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing when I go back together. Is there something else that I need to look at that may be the source of my stiff pedal and clutch catching so close to the floor??

[joelsplace]

Close to the floor is just the adjustment. I can't remember noticing a bend in the release rod. The Clark's catalog shows it to be straight.
I wouldn't think it would really make any difference though. I'm interested though in how this turns out since I have a '64 with a really stiff clutch. Everything works fine on mine it just requires 3-4 times the effort my other Corvairs do.
Check the thickness of the pressure plate spring and the angle of the fingers compared to the new one you get.

[acarlson]

When I had my engine removed to rebuild it I decided to lube the cross-shaft. I kept pumping grease into it and eventually 50 year old gunk started coming out of the end of the shaft. As a lubricant the old grease was useless. I didn't have a binding problem beforehand but the zerk is there for a reason. This may not be your problem but it wouldn't hurt to put fresh grease into it.

[terribleted]

If the clutch rod is bent enough to contact something or to bind pivots at either end then it could cause a bind. Beyond that I would be looking for corrosion in the pedal pivot under the dash or the transfer tube and the rear between cable and clutch rod. Also inspect the pulley in the tunnel for binding or damage

[bbodie52]

The guidelines and illustrations in the attached manual sections maybe helpful to you. Pay particular attention to following the clutch cable path through the tunnel and pulleys. Look for damaged cable sections or binding, broken pulleys. Some may be in need of replacement, or just lubrication.





Clutch cables and parts are covered on three pages of the Clark's Corvair Parts online catalog, starting here...

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... w_page=112

While inspecting the clutch cable path, you might also want to examine and service the parking brake cables.

Left-click each image to enlarge for better viewing...

[my65]

Thank you for your suggestions. Clark’s shipped my parts today so I will be putting the power train back together soon. I will post my results.
Happy new year

[my65]

Well I finally got everything back together and in the car. The motor looks and sound great with NO oil leaks!! Yesterday I asked my wife to come down and push on the clutch pedal so I could make final adjustment. When she had the pedal on the floor, the clutch would not release the transmission. The rear transaxle mount does not look like the 64 or 65 shop manuals. The clutch crank is also totally different. All this said, the clutch crank arms only move 1” when the clutch pedal is floored?? How much travel should there be??? Can anyone identify the parts is my car??

[bbodie52]

I believe this illustration refers to the direct clutch cable pull design for the Corvair 95 vans and trucks. The passenger cars utilize a clutch cable cross shaft to transfer the center-routed cable pull to the side of the transaxle to link up with the clutch fork pull rod.

Check the condition of the cable and pulleys in the center body tunnel and under the dashboard (along the route of the clutch cable). If a plastic pulley has self-destructed the cable length may have lost its way, losing its ability to pull the clutch fork pull rod enough to disengage the clutch.


http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... w_page=119


http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... w_page=112




Page 113 illustrates the 1961-1965 Corvair Van clutch linkage.

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... w_page=113

[my65]

Thank you Brad, I will pull the tunnel pans off tomorrow and look. Do you know how much travel you should expect in the cable??

[corvair500]

It appears to me that your swivel ( clarks # 22) is badly worn .

Part number C40: CLUTCH ROD ADJUSTING SWIVEL