misfire

[Als]

Ok. Think I could find the tin. I would think it’s kinda important to have in place. Do the all have some sort of skid plate? Mine does not as far as I can tell. Pretty low to not have something there.
Back to the engine. Please read back and help me out with the odd going’s on with the compression.

[terribleted]

So what did you find under the valve cover? Could easily be a dropped valve seat or broken valve guide or something like that. Valve seats can come out and full back into place giving compression sometimes, as can some valve train part failures. Some closeup photos of the #6 valve train parts might be helpful.

Only skid plate is steel cover under the crank pulley. Lower engine tins and thermostats are not terribly important except in very cold temps really but the do help warm up. If the sits very low it may have cut or worn out springs and or undersized tires. You should measure ride height per shop manual to see how it compares to spec. What tire size is on it correct size tire for comparison is 185/80r13.

[Als]

I didn’t see anything that I thought looked unusual. I’ll try to get a decent photo of the #6 but could be tough unless I take off the headers. But I think they will be coming off now anyway.. Yep I was wondering about the ride height since we bought it. Seems to measure close to 7” as I recall and looks high in front.But that’s been awhile since wife told me to leave it alone. It’s not without it faults for sure. Bad ball joints and overall sloppy steering. IMO.

[Als]

I want you guys to know I really appreciate your help.

[joelsplace]

Pitman arm bushing and steering box are the most common front end problems. Ball joints can certainly wear out but they aren't that common because they aren't stressed highly in Corvairs.

[Als]

I did the pitman arm bushing, ball joint is definitely bad upper passenger side.Box is certainly a issue. Especially since it’s a 64. Only one not listed at Clark’s.
Btw it runs again but not right. No throttle response, lacks power, top end not there. Timing mark doesn’t sit smooth, distributor issues? Carb on right side now has problems. Running way lean, close choke most of the way down it smoothed right out. I’m bummed. It ran so good. Going into a guy whom has worked on them and which I trust. Hope he gets it all solved.
Next thing I’ll be taking it out and going through the whole mess. Happened so sudden it’s got to be simple stuff. Just one thing leading to another. Going to run it with the compression where it is and hope it was a sticky valve or lifter.

I’ll get there

[terribleted]

Hard to tell for sure but it looks like the left #6 valve in your photo is adjusted a lot tighter than the right one, more threads showing on the nut? Did you adjust these running? If not you should. To adjust loosen until tapping and tighten until quiet + 3/8-1/2 turn in. Adjustments while running should be done slowly. If the engine starts to misfire while turning in it is likely too tight or you turned in to fast. Many replacement lifters used over the years do not like much more than 3/8 turn in from quiet. Is the compression reading on #6 still consistently similar to the other cylinders now or at least consistently over 110 or so. You should never read a very low compression unless something is wrong. And yes a stuck valve can make a low reading but is usually accompanied by a bent push rod. Did you remove the #6 push rods and check them for true? If not you should do so. Roll them on a piece of glass to verify they are straight before you reinstall and adjust the #6 valves. I would actually want adjust all the valves running if I was under there just to make sure they are all adjusted evenly. Headers can make this annoying but not as bad as adjusting around a muffler. I keep a set of old dual exhausts around just for running valve adjustments. Jack car stick them on with the mufflers under the oil pan and nothing in the way and quiet too!!

[Als]

I did not adjust running and did not adjust intake, nor didn’t check push rod. Just tried to get it back running so I could get it to the shop. Good info I’ll let him know. Could save me some $$ on diagnostics. I just don’t have the patience for this and am to broken to be crawling under a car anymore, he has the hoist to get it up. I’ll be there fetching tools and extra hands if he needs it.
Anything special with putting it on a hoist. Don’t want to wrecking things. I really hope he hasn’t overstated his ability with the corvair. He is concerned about availability of parts and where he should check. Told him about Clark’s. Is there others?

[terribleted]

Nothing special just lift from the jacking points as shown in the owners or shop manual

[Als]

[Als]

Doing running vale lash adjust I found... 1 nut moves real easy. Simple fix new nut. Second thing which puzzles me is one spring is not centered on the spring seat. Possible cause? Probable fix? So far only right- passenger side done and it’s already running better.
Also... on right side carb sounds like big vacuum leak when hand is placed over carb. Something my son had done for whatever reason. But it did reveal it. It also speeds up a bit and runs better with carb partially blocked. Only the right side. Left side will kill the engine. More signs of vacuum trouble. All the listening and spraying w/d, oil, ect just doesn’t show it up. Can definitely hear it from the top near the carb.

[terribleted]

Is this valve in the same questionable cylinder? Valve off center indicates a dropped valve seat or broken or very badly worn valve guide. I think you need to remove that cylinder head and have it repaired. Best to rebuild both heads so that they are matched machining wise.

[Als]

[Als]

Not the same cylinder #6. It was on #5 opposite side, same position.
Wish I had taken a photo of it. Just looked odd and I noticed it right off.
Just to be sure we are talking about the same thing. Nut, then rocker, spring seat, spring. It’s the relation of the spring to the seat just below the rocker that is off center like the spring isn’t sitting in right. Omg why I didn’t take the rocker off and look! Idiot.
Biggest pain about the whole thing is getting it up on stands and now it’s back down. Blah

[Als]

Btw #6 is holding the 120#

[terribleted]

All exhaust valves should look the same as each other and parts of each should align the same way. All intake valves same story compared to each other. Intakes and exhausts sit slightly differently from each other. If you are talking about the round retainer that sits in the top of the spring it is possible that it lost a keeper allowing it to sit cockeyed. Hard to say without seeing what you are talking about. So you had no compression in at least one cylinder that came back after fiddling with adjustment and you have another valve spring that looks funny. I would be thinking that the heads have some issues and would want to investigate further and perhaps rebuild them. Worn valve guides or other valve train components could be responsible for your problems. 120 is getting somewhat low. What is the lowest compression currently?