62 Monza no lights

[VairsRule]

Yes, I meant to type .250 (1/4 inch). You were also right about the terminal. In fact, what I need is a MALE that has a locking tang on one edge keep them in the harness plug (see photo). So will solder the new wires onto the existing connector instead.

Before I cut the old wires off, can you confirm that on the backup light end, the wire is soldered to the raised nub that the bulb contacts (see photo)? I recalling doing this once before, but want to be sure.

[toytron]

Yes, I meant to type .250 (1/4 inch). You were also right about the terminal. In fact, what I need is a MALE that has a locking tang on one edge keep them in the harness plug (see photo). So will solder the new wires onto the existing connector instead.

Before I cut the old wires off, can you confirm that on the backup light end, the wire is soldered to the raised nub that the bulb contacts (see photo)? I recalling doing this once before, but want to be sure.

That is funny....the first picture looked like a Frankenstein tiki head, then I read the post. Lol

Ed Stevenson

[corvair500]

[Yes the wire is soldered into the part that connects the bulb . You may be able to unsolder the old one and replace . I think I would purchase a new back up light plug ) . As to the male terminals , I don't know why but they are more expensive that the female .
http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... ow_page=99

[corvair500]

for what it is worth the GM part number on the male terminal is GM 2971962 . I doubt your local GM dealer has any , and they may not even be able to get them .

[VairsRule]

Thanks! To play it safe, I'll a few inches on the plug end and soldering new wire to that first, then test voltage. If not 12 volts, will solder the new wire directly to the plug.

Still no front running/turn signal lights (headlights work). Both bulbs tested good. Grounds look good...

[bbodie52]

» Wed Nov 07, 2018 9:03 am

for what it is worth the GM part number on the male terminal is GM 2971962 . I doubt your local GM dealer has any , and they may not even be able to get them .

25 Packard 56 Series Male 16-14 Gauge Terminals GM 2971962
Price: $12.97

https://www.amazon.com/Packard-16-14-Ga ... 1439&psc=1

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Delphi Packard 2971962 GM 56 Series Male Terminal 16-14 Ga. Pkg of 25

$7.99 + $4.69 Shipping

ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-Packard-56- ... 0#viTabs_0

============================================================

https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C2CH ... idNHjQeVcI

[VairsRule]

Thanks for finding these! Good to know they are still available. Both links show the same product photo with rough zinc plating. The one on Amazon says material is "zinc plated, zinc". But the other photo you attached shows zinc plated copper and smoother plating.

[bbodie52]

» Wed Nov 07, 2018 2:10 pm

...Still no front running/turn signal lights (headlights work). Both bulbs tested good. Grounds look good...

The point of origin for voltage for these two 1034/1157 bulb filaments in each front bulb is separate. The running lights get their power from the main light switch, which passes through the trunk multi-connector and splits from a common point at the multi-connector to run to each bulb via two 20 N wires. After passing through the bulb filament the circuit terminates to chassis electrical GROUND. This circuit should function with the ignition switch ON or OFF.

The turn signals receive power from the turn signal flasher via the turn signal switch. The separate wires (20 DBL (Right) and 20 LBL (Left)) also pass through the trunk multi-connector, where each wire is routed to the separate left or right light socket. This circuit should only function with the ignition switch ON and the turn signal switch activated. NOTE: The failure of any bulb or bulb electrical connection in the front or rear circuit would cause less current to be drawn through the flasher, which could cause the flasher to stop flashing or to flash at a different rate.

If the bulb filaments are intact, but neither filament lights, the only thing they have in common would be the multi-connector, battery and the electrical GROUND path. You could verify the presence of voltage when the circuit is activated. Also check for a corroded socket or a faulty ground connection between the socket and chassis GROUND. If voltage is present at the socket connection point and the bulb is intact and functional, the fault would have to be with the GROUND return.

[VairsRule]

First, update on effort to get the right backup light working: Soldered new wire onto a stub from the plug and tested for voltage. GOOD (12v). Then cut the old wires (both backup lights) and soldered new wire for both. The two backup light wires are crimped into the same spade connector (and were firmly attached) and I didn't have a replacement connector, so I left 2-3 inches of the old wire. The old wires looked identical (both had some blackening, but otherwise intact. Note that the LEFT backup light has been working fine. RESULT: Left light works as before, right light does not work at all. Both bulbs work in the left light, neither bulb works in the right light. Tested both fixtures for voltage. Both read 11.76 volts. Cleaned up the grounds on the right fixture again, no change. If the wire for the right backup light was not connecting (well) in the spade connector, I would expect lower voltage or some such, but get the same voltage readings as for the light that works. Any ideas?

Thanks for the info, Brad. The headliight units ground directly to the body and only there, correct? I had this problem before, but the lights mostly worked. Not sure why they are not grounding. I did repaint them and the car, but the sheet metal screws should be making contact at least at the threads...

[corvair500]

Check voltage at the bulb with the bulb in socket .

[corvair500]

You should be able to get the multi meter probe into the bottom of socket , make sure the light is grounded well . This may require two people .

[corvair500]

Wires don't generally go bad . Switches do , and connectors develop corrosion and quit conducting . Now I say wires don't generally go bad but if you had some one weld in new floor they may have got to near the main harness that runs through the tunnel , and burned them .

[dave t]

all the crimp connectors used on the corvair are called packard type-56. the only connectors that i cannot find are the forked flag spade connectors used on the coil wire & voltage regulator and the dome light/fuse block connectors. i use ring terminals instead of the forked spade terminals. i use clipsandfasteners.com as my source. when using type-56 crimps, you must use the correct crimper to get the proper crimp. i got my ratchet type crimper on line for about $60.00. the die is called open barrel. if you would like, i can build you a new engine harness that will be plug & play, use the correct wire color and size, look and perform just like the original. i can also modify it for an alternator or with no resistor wire for electronic ignition. dave.thompson@verizon.net sparky dave

Sent from my SM-G930V using Corvair Forum mobile app

[VairsRule]

The right backup light housing had two soft rubber washers between the aluminum housing and the zinc plated steel backing plate. I removed those and used a sharp knife to brighten the contact points between the backing plate and the inside of the body where they make contact (had already done this once with no improvement). No improvement.

Wanted to rule out possibility that the right wire is not making good contact in the terminal. Soldered a section of new wire to the terminal and onto the two old/new wires to make one big conductor. Neither soldering iron has enough watts to properly melt solder for 3 wires, even after modifying weller soldering gun to use 14ga copper house wiring for the tip (worked better but still not hot enough). Need a good soldering station! Eventually got them soldered well enough to test, but ran out of time/daylight. Have a feeling it's not going to help. There is something else going on, probably multiple grounding issues.

corvair500: All the wires that run to the back lights were tightly bound together, and some idiot had soldered a hunk of lamp cord onto the generator wire that pointed to the front of the car, but did not connect to anything on the other end. No idea why they did that. Most of the insulation on the lamp cord was burned off, and all the other (original) wires were stuck together (they still looked normal/round, but were partially melted, and kind of hard). I was able to get all the wires separated. Not sure if the cause of heat/melting was just the lamp cord, or wires being to tightly bound, or both. Really should replace the entire rear harness, but don't have a budget to work with right now.

Also, when I cut the harness open, I found a resistor wire. This wire is still connected to the harness plug, but NOT connected to the coil. Instead, it is been bent into a "U" and run back towards the front (not connected to anything). A different wire has been run to the coil. Some previous owner did this. The coil "looks stock", but don't know if it is the resistor type or not. The engine starts/runs, so I assume the wire that runs to the coil is connected to the right thing on the other end, but will have to trace it and see where it goes.

[VairsRule]

dave-t, thanks for the info.

[joelsplace]

The early model tail light housings are bad about losing connection between the socket and housing. I just drill a hole right next to the crimp joint and install a screw that fixes the connection. This isn't your only problem obviously but it may be compounding the issues.