oil cooler seals

[jwarren]

I'm replacing the leaking oil seal and cannot find what the torque spec in the TSM for the bolts that holds the cooler on. Even if I could find the value, I'm not sure if it would be applicable because the material in the new ones appears to be of a different composition

[66vairguy]

If I recall correctly the cooler has a limit it will compress the seals. So they do not compress more depending on the torque. The biggest issue is making sure the seals are installed correctly. If they get off center during assembly they WILL leak. Folks incorrectly try to tighten down the bolts more to seal a leak and that won't work or strips out the threads.

Torque for bolt to adapter and bolt to head is 7-13 ft lbs for an average of 10 ft lbs - THAT'S ONLY 120 INCH POUNDS. VERY LITTLE TORQUE!!!!

Due to the low torque I use a lock washer and flat washer under the bolt through the cooler to the head.

[bbodie52]

The rubber seals will compress the correct amount when the oil cooler body comes into contact with the aluminum adapter. The torque spec for the bolt will not cause further compression, but will cause the bolt to be secure and not loosen because of vibration. As shown on the chart, the specification is highlighted in red and is 8-12 ft. lbs.

The video below will take you through the procedure for installing your replacement harmonic balancer and also covers replacing the oil cooler seals. The section that applies specifically to the oil cooler begins at time mark 22:10.

The shop manual torque specifications page in the attachment below are found on page SPECIFICATIONS 4.

[jwarren]

Thanks I looked and couldn't find the torque spec . Its amazing how beat up the old ones were. The video shows the use of perma gasket. Probably not a bad idea to things in place during re-assembly.

[66vairguy]

Thanks I looked and couldn't find the torque spec . Its amazing how beat up the old ones were. The video shows the use of perma gasket. Probably not a bad idea to things in place during re-assembly.

Use only a LITTLE (if you must) to hold the seal in place. You don't want it to squeeze into the oil passage!!!

[jwarren]

Oil cooler is not leaking any longer however, the oil pan gasket is failing again. This is the second one that Ive installed in ten years. I bought new lock washers and used red thread locker but the bolts still became finger loose.Then the vicious cycle of re-torquing begins. I also hammered out any distortion on the mating surface of the pan before I reinstalled the gasket. Thinking about buying a cast aluminum pan from Clarks; but being inherently cheap, $230 is a lot to correct what a $6.00 gasket should fix.

[joelsplace]

Common leak since it sits in oil all the time unlike other oil pans where the gasket is above the oil level. I read somewhere that the expansion between the length of the aluminum block was much greater than the steel oil pan so the gasket shifts all the time. Ken Hand did a great tutorial on keeping them from leaking. One key is not to over tighten the bolts and just snug them up every time you change the oil.
The Clark's pan has a lot of things to make the oil run cooler also but it does reduce ground clearance a little. It is really nice. I have 4 or 5 of them. The thing that gets me is the $65 fancy oil pickup. I would say 2 in 10 years isn't that bad. Disappointing but not too bad.

[jwarren]

Leaning to just installing a new gasket., lock washers and some blue thread locker. Whats the consensus; cork, composition or rubber ? Additionally, should I use any type of gasket sealer?

[64powerglide]

I changed my oil pan gasket with Clark's all rubber, hasn't leaked in 4 years. I bought both the rubber & the rubber/cork so i'm ready for a leak. Guess I picked the right one the first time. Anytime i'm doing something on the rear underside I put a socket on the pan bolts & put a bit of pressure on them, last check was yesterday they were all tight. I just cleaned the block & pan good & did not use any kind of sealer.

[jwarren]

If I use the stock bolts, I will not be able to use lock washers since the bolts have a wide, non locking and non-removable, washer on them. Should I stick with them and use some Lock Tite or buy new bolts and use star washers?

[azdave]

Stock has always worked for me and no Loctite needed either. People think the bolts are getting loose when it is actually the gasket getting further compressed and giving way. You MUST resist the urge to tighten them a little bit more just because you think they might need it. Once you see the gasket start to compress adjacent to each bolt then stop. Do not go back the next day or week or month and tighten them each time you are under the car just for good measure.

Watch this video.

[joelsplace]

People think the bolts are getting loose when it is actually the gasket getting further compressed and giving way. You MUST resist the urge to tighten them a little bit more just because you think they might need it.

These two statements don't appear to go together. If the gasket compresses further then you need to snug them up more. Clearly too tight will crush the gasket and bend the pan but you have to keep them snug or it will leak. I just fixed one that was leaking badly by just snugging the bolts.

[azdave]

These two statements don't appear to go together.

You don't get my point. Many gaskets (especially the all-rubber gaskets) will relax after they have been under initial compression and heat for a few days. If they are not leaking at this point then leave them alone. If you check them as a precaution and incorrectly think the bolts have backed out or are more loose than they should be and then tightening them again will slowly squeeze the gasket out of position little by little each time until you will cause a leak by going too far. If it is already leaking then you don't have much choice but to try a slight tightening but I have a stack of used oil pans that prove most people tighten those bolts like they are putting lug nuts on a truck.