Headlights problem

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66corsaguy
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Headlights problem

Unread post by 66corsaguy » Sat Dec 30, 2017 2:24 pm

66 Corsa
Headlight problem i replaced bulbs still don’t work.

When i tap the switch in the floor high beams go on but the regular lights don’t work. I’ve checked the switch and cleaned etc but i don’t see a problem. checked fuse and it’s fine
When hi beams are on do the regular lights stay on also ? Two lights or are the hi beams more powerful and headlight turns off? I assume both lights stay on?

I have searched the manual and looked for other suggestions on the forum but i still can’t figure out a fix.

Anyone have any other suggestion? How do i access the backside to check connection there?


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66corsaguy
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Re: Headlights problem

Unread post by 66corsaguy » Sat Dec 30, 2017 2:39 pm

I just stumbled across another post which says the switch in the floor may be needs to be replaced?
You all think that’s my fix?

Also read about adding a relay. Is this a good idea?


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66vairguy
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Re: Headlights problem

Unread post by 66vairguy » Sat Dec 30, 2017 3:00 pm

The floor dimmer switch is the most likely cause, the second is the connector at the dimmer switch (melts), third is the bulkhead connector.

The dimmer switches would become corroded and the contacts get HOT and melt the connector. At one time the connector with wires was readily available at auto parts stores since it AND the dimmer switch were usually replaced together.

One wire in from headlamp switch with power - Two wires out - one to both outer low beams. The other wire to FOUR high beams (yes all four headlights are on.

I suspect your dimmer is staying in the LOW beam mode - just the two outer headlights.

Time to pull up the carpet and inspect!

Relay harness is not needed for sealed beam bulbs (standard or the more popular Halogen). I've seen folks add relays and still complain the light output was not good - CHECK THE GROUNDS. Ground wire from the socket is attached behind bezel with a sheet metal screw to body. It gets wet and corrodes! Typical after five decades.

If you are going to advanced (and possibly illegal) lighting then the EVERYTHING needs to be upgraded. Wiring, ceramic bulb sockets, etc.

I'm waiting for decent LED lighting, but so far the smaller four bulb systems are all sub par and not worth wasting the money on. I've only seen one good system in a 7" bulb and the price is not for the faint of heart. In time LED's that have good light patterns and are affordable will happen.

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66corsaguy
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Re: Headlights problem

Unread post by 66corsaguy » Sat Dec 30, 2017 6:09 pm

Thanks for this response i will pull the carpet tomorrow and see


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91blaze
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Re: Headlights problem

Unread post by 91blaze » Sat Dec 30, 2017 10:16 pm

Since when do the low beams stay on with the highs? They're separate as far as I know, at least mine and every other I've seen is.
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wbabst
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Re: Headlights problem

Unread post by wbabst » Sat Dec 30, 2017 11:21 pm

In the four headlight system the 2 outer bulbs are on when it is low beam only. When you switch the highbeams on the low beams change but stay on and the high beams inner bulbs also light up. If you look the low beam bulbs have 3 contacts for two different filaments. If your low beam (outer) lights go out when you turn on the high beams something is wrong.
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Wagon Master
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Re: Headlights problem

Unread post by Wagon Master » Sun Dec 31, 2017 7:31 am

91blaze wrote:
Sat Dec 30, 2017 10:16 pm
Since when do the low beams stay on with the highs? They're separate as far as I know, at least mine and every other I've seen is.
Since the day GM and others designed and installed them. Yes the wiring "seems" separate but the low bulbs have 3 terminals and the highs have 2. Highs have high and ground. Lows have high, low and ground. Wiring schematic point this out. :doh:

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Re: Headlights problem

Unread post by bbodie52 » Sun Dec 31, 2017 10:08 am

The diagram below illustrates the High and Low-Beam switch and wiring configuration in the Late-Model Corvair. The Early-Model Corvair configuration is very similar.

Left-click the image to enlarge it for better viewing or "Pan & Scan"...
Late Model Headlights.jpg
In the illustration, the dimmer switch receives voltage from the main light switch via a 14 B/LBL wire. The dimmer switch has two outputs. In the LOW BEAM mode, the output is connected to a 18 T wire (BLUE CIRCUIT PATH) and passes through the multi-connector into the trunk, and then divides into separate wiring harness connections to the left and right outer sealed beam (4002) headlamps (55 Watt Low Beam Connector).

In the HIGH BEAM mode, the dimmer switch output is connected to trunk multi-connector (RED CIRCUIT PATH) via the 16 B/LG wire. A wire taps off of this wire at the multi-connector to power the instrument panel HIGH BEAM INDICATOR lamp. The circuit continues through the trunk multi-connector, where it splits to travel to the left and right headlamp assemblies. Each wire connects to the respective right or left 4002 sealed beam (Outer) High Beam (37-½ Watt) connector. The circuit path continues to the paired 4001 inner (37-½ Watt) high beam lamp, so that both paired lamps illuminate simultaneously in the high beam mode to produce a total of 75 watts output on each side.

(The third wire, labeled 20 B, is a GROUND connector that ties to the 4001 inner lamp connector, and then to CHASSIS GROUND to provide a ground path for both lamps on its respective side of the vehicle.)
1965 Corvair Corsa Full Schematic (Rev. D).jpg
1965 Corvair Monza Full Schematic (Rev. D).jpg

CORVAIR COMBINED WIRING SCHEMATIC DIAGRAMS
:link: viewtopic.php?f=225&t=12968

Wiring Circuit Color Code.jpg
Brad Bodie
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Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible

66vairguy
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Re: Headlights problem

Unread post by 66vairguy » Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:48 am

It should be noted that if the ground is open on either side, then electrical current will find it's way from the open ground side to the grounded side via the the high and low filaments and their respective power wires. After five decades the headlamp ground connections are usually corroded - even in the dry Western states.

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66corsaguy
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Re: Headlights problem

Unread post by 66corsaguy » Mon Jan 01, 2018 7:41 pm

Well you all helped out again. I pulled the switch under the carpet. Corroded and the plastic wiring harness is melted!
ImageImage

So that’s good to discover cos it’s taken me several months to get here!!

Is there anything i can do to keep that from happening? It melted and than is sitting on the metal body of the car which i would assume shorts it

Will pick up new parts ASAP.


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66corsaguy
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Re: Headlights problem

Unread post by 66corsaguy » Mon Jan 01, 2018 7:42 pm

Not sure my photos uploaded?


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terribleted
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Re: Headlights problem

Unread post by terribleted » Mon Jan 01, 2018 8:00 pm

Replace the switch and splice on a new plug pigtail (Clark's sells the plug with like 8" of wire for splice in...they also have the switch but it is commonly available) and it should be good for another 50 years or more.

likely not any shorts going on there with the body just a typically corroded and high resistance dimmer plug.
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91blaze
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Re: Headlights problem

Unread post by 91blaze » Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:16 pm

My bad, guess my car was messed with at some point, they never came on together. The projectors I put in are separate high/low beam so it never became an issue. I'll have to look back through the wiring and see what was changed. Sorry about the confusion.
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Re: Headlights problem

Unread post by bbodie52 » Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:27 pm

ImageImage
66corsaguy wrote:...Is there anything i can do to keep that from happening? It melted and than is sitting on the metal body of the car which i would assume shorts it...
The corrosion that develops from age, exposure and moisture creates an increasing high resistance to current flow. The voltage is applied but instead of current flowing to the bulb filaments, the high resistance in the corroded electrical contacts also generate heat, which ultimately melted the plastic connector shell.

At this point, the badly deteriorated connector and switch need to be replaced. In the future, periodic inspection and cleaning will help to ensure proper operation and a good electrical circuit.

Also, try using this on metal connectors that are subject to conditions that promote corrosion. (Should help in the engine compartment multi-connectors, too!)
:link: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-D ... ive+grease
Image

Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube
  • Protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosion
  • Prevents voltage leaks around any electrical connection
  • Extends the life of bulb sockets
  • Required for modern high energy ignition systems
  • Suggested Applications: Marine and automotive electrical connections, spark plug boots, trailer hitches, battery terminals
Brad Bodie
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66corsaguy
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Re: Headlights problem

Unread post by 66corsaguy » Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:52 pm

terribleted wrote:Replace the switch and splice on a new plug pigtail (Clark's sells the plug with like 8" of wire for splice in...they also have the switch but it is commonly available) and it should be good for another 50 years or more.

likely not any shorts going on there with the body just a typically corroded and high resistance dimmer plug.

Ok. Good to know touching metal is no big deal. But yes i noticed clark has the plastic part and i have a few other things to buy so will add that and the mount to the order

Yeah! So happy when the problem is so easy to see but took the forum to show me.


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terribleted
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Re: Headlights problem

Unread post by terribleted » Mon Jan 01, 2018 10:22 pm

You need more than just the plastic part. You really need the pigtail with plastic part and sections of wires to splice to the harness P/N C2557 on page 99 (Dimmer switch housing and connectors). The female spade metal wire connector in the plastic plug housing is where the issue is...cleaning it is not a good option...replacement is what you want (and of course the spade contact on the switch itself is corroded as well (and the internal switch contacts are likely not much better...so a new switch is in order as well). Clark's P/N C457 page 84B (seems to be same part as most parts stores and may need some filing or grinding out of mounting holes to fit perfectly (some of the aftermarket switches seem to have mounting holes that are just a touch narrow for the screws to line up nicely (Clark's and local parts store switches as well)).
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