Best way to change a belt

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killfront
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Best way to change a belt

Unread post by killfront » Thu Dec 07, 2017 4:33 am

Hello my name is josh I bought a 68 corvair with the intention to get it running while I work on a frame to do a v8 build I started to look through what needed to be done and its practically ready to go I just can't get in to properly tension the belt because the body and the distributer are in the way I was wondering if there was an easy way to do it rather then take the engine out of the car I was also wondering what the red and green wires coming from the coil were for I'm pretty sure the green is oil temp and I think the red is air I'm not too sure I looked for wiring diagrams but couldn't find anything on it.

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bbodie52
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Re: Best way to change a belt

Unread post by bbodie52 » Thu Dec 07, 2017 7:38 am

:wave: :welcome2: Welcome, Josh, to the Corvair Forum!

The car body or distributor normally don't interfere with the fan belt adjustment, which is covered in the shop manual. Can you provide some pictures or more specific details of the interference you are having in adjusting the fan belt tension?

With ignition points, there is one black wire between the ignition coil negative terminal and the ignition points in the distributor. On the coil positive terminal there is normally a single wire that leads to a two-pin connector from the starter solenoid, and then continues on to the main wiring harness (12-pin connector). This coil wire received a nominal full 12 VDC from the starter solenoid when the engine is being cranked. When the starter solenoid disengages, the 12 VDC from it stops, leaving only a nominal 7 VDC from the resistor wire that is embedded in the wire segment that leads from the large 12-pin multi-connector. (The higher voltage boosts the coil output during engine starting, while the lower voltage is sufficient for normal engine operation. The lower voltage also prolongs the life of the ignition points by subjecting them to a lower current as the points open and close, and it reduces ignition coil operating temperatures during continuous engine operation). The second wire shown in the schematic from the ignition coil negative terminal is for the tachometer sensing wire (1965-66 Corsa only).

The other wires near the distributor lead to a cylinder head temperature warning switch on the underside of the right cylinder head, and on to the oil pressure warning switch that is just to the right of the alternator. Both of these switches are wired to a TEMP/PRES warning light in the instrument panel. The light will illuminate with the key ON but the engine not started to test the bulb. It will go out when the engine starts, but would illuminate if the oil pressure is lost or if the engine overheats.

If your distributor has been upgraded to provide an electronic breakerless ignition system using aftermarket components, there would be no points or condenser inside the distributor. Instead you would find an electronic sensor that triggers/controls the ignition coil using magnetic pulses or an optical trigger. There would be additional wiring associated with the electronic system.

Here are some wiring illustrations and schematic diagrams. They are specifically for a 1965 Corvair, so the wiring color codes on your 1968 Corvair are probably different, but the wiring itself is generally the same. You did not state if your Corvair has an electronic breakerless modification to the distributor, or the original factory configuration with ignition points and condensor in the distributor.
1965-1969 Corvair Engine Compartment Wiring Harness Starter Connections.jpg
1965-1969 Corvair Engine Compartment Wiring Harness Starter Connections.jpg (80.88 KiB) Viewed 155 times
1965-1969 Corvair Engine Compartment Wiring Harness.jpg

Left-click the image to enlarge for better viewing, once for moderate enlargement, ad a second time for maximum enlargement...
1965-1969 Corvair Engine Compartment Wiring Diagram (CORRECTED).jpg

Left-click the image to enlarge for better viewing, once for moderate enlargement, ad a second time for maximum enlargement...
1965 Corvair Monza Full Schematic (Rev. D).jpg
1965 Corvair Monza Full Schematic

The link below will provide you with a list of useful websites that are Corvair-related. Some of the links will lead you to an extensive technical library that will allow you to download shop manuals and other technical references in Adobe Reader format at no cost. There is also a link that will help you to locate nearby CORSA (Corvair Society of America) club chapters. While the Corvair Forum can be very helpful as you work on your Corvair, having local friends and contacts in your region who are knowledgeable about the Corvair can also be very helpful. These family-friendly CORSA chapters often offer picnics, group scenic drives, technical training and assistance, car shows, and competition events that can greatly enhance your enjoyment of Corvair ownership. You will also find a list of essential Corvair parts suppliers. Clark's Corvair Parts is the biggest and oldest Corvair supplier in the world. You will find a link that can provide you with a series of videos that amount to a tour of the Clark's Corvair Parts facilities. I think you will be amazed at the quality of the reproduction components they offer — particularly the interior carpeting and re-upholstery items. Parts suppliers such as this truly make our Corvair hobby possible.

Common and Useful Corvair Websites

:link: viewtopic.php?f=225&t=6007

:dontknow: I would like to encourage you to expand on your earlier posts and tell us more about yourself. If you can describe your personal assessment of your mechanical skills and abilities, that would help a lot. Members of the Corvair Forum love to be helpful in assisting other Corvair owners with technical support and advice, but it helps a lot if we have some understanding of your technical background and mechanical abilities, Corvair-related knowledge, etc. Helping us to know more about you will help us to write comments to you that are tailored to your needs and experience. Knowing your specific location is also useful, because knowing where you live can sometimes suggest possibilities.

:welcome:
Brad Bodie
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Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible

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terribleted
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Re: Best way to change a belt

Unread post by terribleted » Thu Dec 07, 2017 7:43 am

Hmmm post a photo of what your belt and tensioner look like and where the "body is in the way" . It should be no issue to change or tension the belt unless something is modified or bent. The belt runs under the crank pulley, up over the alternator and tensioner pulleys and around the fan pulley. The belt is tensioned by loosening the tensioner 2 pulley bracket bolts, pulling the tensioner rearward until proper belt tension is reached and re-tightening the 2 bolts. Pretty straight forward. You want enough tension such that you can slip the alternator pulley in the belt by pulling on it with a finger (without hurting your finger). Should not be loose but you should be able to just slip it by hooking an alternator fan blade with your index finger and pulling.

Not sure about any green or red wires at the ignition coil. Factory wiring used no such colors hooked to the coil. There is no oil temp gauge in the car from the factory and what would air be?, is the car air conditioned? The wires from the controls at the dash to the A/C compressor were often green in color, but , do not connect to the coil. Wiring diagrams for your car can be found in the 1968 Corvair Chassis shop manual supplement available in reprint from Clark's Corvair parts. These shop manuals are also available in PDF on the net. I do not have a link to them, but, if you search on this site I bet you might find a link.
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Re: Best way to change a belt

Unread post by 64powerglide » Thu Dec 07, 2017 8:39 am

You should be able to loosen the bolts on the idler pulley with a 9/16 open end wrench, the one towards the front is hard to see but it's there.
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killfront
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Re: Best way to change a belt

Unread post by killfront » Sat Dec 09, 2017 1:31 pm

I tried some of your guys suggestions and I managed to get a 9 /16 a ratcheting wrench on the pully tensioner and got it tight now I got the wiring figured out and got the engine to turn over my only problem now is when I connect the battery the interior light turns on and the headlights I don't think that's ment to happen here Is a few pics of the engine bay the battery and the alternator
IMG_20171209_151714.jpg
IMG_20171209_151722.jpg
IMG_20171209_151737.jpg

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Re: Best way to change a belt

Unread post by terribleted » Sat Dec 09, 2017 2:28 pm

Interior light and headlights coming on when connected to the battery is likely an issue at the headlight switch. The interior lights are turned on by rotating the switch, the headlamps by pulling it out. It is very possible that the switch is rotated and that the knob and shaft are improperly installed into the switch causing these issues (or a bad switch or other wiring crossed up in this circuit).

From your photos: Your alternator will likely not function as the 2 wires that are hanging near it are generally connected to the alternator (if it is a stock alternator it will not function with these disconnected...it may be an internal regulated alternator conversion set up for one wire however in which case it might work). Stock setup has a bracket between the silver bolt into the engine and the spot where the negative cable is currently attached and the cable mounts to the bottom of the bracket and bolt at the engine. There should be 3-4 grounding straps from the engine sheet metal to the body around the perimeter of the engine to provide the body ground that is currently supplied by the red wrapped wire going from negative to the frame. I would at earliest convenience eliminate the rubber fuel hoses in the carb supply lines with proper all steel fuel lines as these present a fire hazard as they are. I would also be concerned about the coil wire routing, reverse the coil in the bracket or re-orient the bracket so that the coil wire is well away from the belt and fuel pump. I see no issue with clearance with the body to change the belt.

What is the car and engine? It looks like it had or has A/C, and also has indications of smog pump shrouding (the round hole below the A/C bracket near the distributor). Could be a smog spec motor or just swapped parts from one. The A/C bracket forward of the alternator would be for 1965 type A/C condenser mounting. You will learn more as you investigate it farther.
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killfront
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Re: Best way to change a belt

Unread post by killfront » Sat Dec 09, 2017 2:37 pm

I'm thinking its the ignition switch that's messed up seeing as I can take the key out no matter what position its in and when its turned to the off position the dash lights and headlights are still active the alternator was like that when I got it there's no connection on it to allow those two wires to connect as far as the a/c portion goes I have no idea I bought the car for a guy that bought it from someone who blew the original motor up and swapped it with this one the car is a 68 corvair 500 with a 110 engine at least that's what I think it is

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Re: Best way to change a belt

Unread post by funvairs » Sat Dec 09, 2017 3:54 pm

The key coming out of the switch in any position is normal for cars of that era. Also, if the light switch is on, the lights work in all positions of the ignition switch. As Ted stated, make sure the light switch is assembled correctly.
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Re: Best way to change a belt

Unread post by 64powerglide » Sat Dec 09, 2017 5:20 pm

Looks like it needs someone who knows something about wiring, Looks like the plug wires are wrong to me.
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Re: Best way to change a belt

Unread post by killfront » Sat Dec 09, 2017 5:47 pm

They might be I just left them I went over a wiring diagram and checked if they were in the spot they were sapposta be in and they were they might be out of rotation by one spot to the left but other than that there were there ment to be i went off of the diagram that brad posted


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Re: Best way to change a belt

Unread post by terribleted » Sat Dec 09, 2017 6:38 pm

killfront wrote:
Sat Dec 09, 2017 2:37 pm
I'm thinking its the ignition switch that's messed up seeing as I can take the key out no matter what position its in and when its turned to the off position the dash lights and headlights are still active the alternator was like that when I got it there's no connection on it to allow those two wires to connect as far as the a/c portion goes I have no idea I bought the car for a guy that bought it from someone who blew the original motor up and swapped it with this one the car is a 68 corvair 500 with a 110 engine at least that's what I think it is

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The alternator wires normally are in a 2 prong plug that plugs into the side of the alternator in the side that on yours is facing directly forward. Headlights and interior light are directly connected to power not through the ignition switch. yeah the engine looks like it is likely assembled from hodge podge of different parts (externally anyway).

The plug wires do not look like they are positioned at all correctly. The firing order is 145236 in a clockwise direction around the cap. It looks like in your photo some even wires and odd wires are next too each other which should not be. Study Brads diagram again. Cylinders starting at the rear of the car are left side 2, 4, 6 and left side 1, 3, 5 so left forward cylinder is 6 and right forward is 5. The #1 position by convention is the cap post pointed at the crankshaft pulley, but, in any case the rotor must be pointed at the #1 wire when the engine is at the top dead center of #1 cylinder after the compression stroke. You may need to verify this in order to get it running. Be advised that the crankshaft rotation is counter clockwise while the rotor rotation is clockwise. To find TDC #1 you rotate the engine CCW by wrench until #1 (right rear cylinder) compresses and then a bit more until the timing mark on the crank pulley aligns with 0 reference mark on the engine.
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