Alternator Issues

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KiltedPhoenix
Posts: 34
Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2016 12:49 pm

Alternator Issues

Unread post by KiltedPhoenix » Fri Dec 01, 2017 8:13 pm

First, what I'm working with: 63 700 sedan, with EXTERNAL voltage regulator and alternator, like a 65.

History: I did the conversion last spring, everything's been good until recently, I had an ugly oil leak from the oil pressure sending unit, got oil everywhere, and I'm assuming IN the alternator. Lately ive had pulsing lights at night. Last weekend i was trying to get my gas heater going and probably pushed the alt a bit too hard, it stopped charging completely. I was seeing voltage in the single digits at the alternator.

I decided it was the alt, bought a new one, put it in today.

Problem: the GEN/FAN light is on at idle (750-800 rpm) and alt is making 12.2-12.4v at idle, GEN/FAN light goes out with rpms but not until about 2k rpm. even at that alt is only putting out 12.51v max. Could the VR be fried too? I had a spare, still new, and put that in, with the exact same results. 2 bad VR's? how do i test them? They are (sadly) the new ones, not the nice old ones that can be adjusted.

I dont have money to be loading/firing the parts cannon at this, its also my daily driver so waiting around for a week for a part is NOT an option either. Do I just buy another VR ($21.99 at FLAPS) or can i test both of mine to see if that is even the problem?

I am a total idiot when it comes to electrical diagnosing.

Please help, in plain "electrical for dummies" English.

Thanks.

Jerry Whitt
Posts: 657
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2013 2:42 pm

Re: Alternator Issues

Unread post by Jerry Whitt » Fri Dec 01, 2017 8:55 pm

With an external regulator you can do some tests. On the upper portion of alternator back side is a small plastic plug with two wires. Remove the plug Inside are two small contacts. The housing is marked R and F. The F means field. With the engine running attach a volt meter to the battery terminals. Attach a jumper wire from the plus battery terminal to the field contact

The voltage meter should now read 14 volts. If it does not the alternator has failed.

The R terminal acts as a ground for the red light. When the system works properly the ground is eliminated and the light goes out









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Jerry Whitt
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER TECHNICIAN
Retired
Hemet, Callifornia
65 Monza, purchased new
65 Corsa convertible

KiltedPhoenix
Posts: 34
Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2016 12:49 pm

Re: Alternator Issues

Unread post by KiltedPhoenix » Fri Dec 01, 2017 9:00 pm

So how do I determine if the VR is bad?

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Jerry Whitt
Posts: 657
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2013 2:42 pm

Re: Alternator Issues

Unread post by Jerry Whitt » Fri Dec 01, 2017 10:06 pm

If the voltage hits 14 volts, when the field is energized manually, that tells us the voltage regulator is not telling the alternator to work.

If the alternator does not produce about 14 volts when energized, faulty alternator.
Jerry Whitt
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER TECHNICIAN
Retired
Hemet, Callifornia
65 Monza, purchased new
65 Corsa convertible

KiltedPhoenix
Posts: 34
Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2016 12:49 pm

Re: Alternator Issues

Unread post by KiltedPhoenix » Fri Dec 01, 2017 10:11 pm

Jerry Whitt wrote:If the voltage hits 14 volts, when the field is energized manually, that tells us the voltage regulator is not telling the alternator to work.

If the alternator does not produce about 14 volts when energized, faulty alternator.
How do I energize the field manually?

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Jerry Whitt
Posts: 657
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2013 2:42 pm

Re: Alternator Issues

Unread post by Jerry Whitt » Sat Dec 02, 2017 12:46 am

Attach a jumper wire from the positive battery cable to the F terminal.
Jerry Whitt
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER TECHNICIAN
Retired
Hemet, Callifornia
65 Monza, purchased new
65 Corsa convertible

KiltedPhoenix
Posts: 34
Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2016 12:49 pm

Re: Alternator Issues

Unread post by KiltedPhoenix » Sat Dec 02, 2017 5:20 am

Thanks

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