Powerglide

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Wagon Master
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Re: Powerglide

Post by Wagon Master »

While waiting on carb. rebuild kits to arrive, with engine idling in neutral, seal the palm of your hand over the top of the left carb. a couple of times.
On 5 sec.
Off 5 sec.
On 5 sec.
Off 5 sec.
Do this maybe half a dozen times. I've had luck unclogging the idle circuit this way. If there is a ton of junk in the bowl though your success will be temporary.
64powerglide
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Re: Powerglide

Post by 64powerglide »

Sounds like the float needle valve it stuck closed. Did you spray starting fluid in that carb???? If you did it should have bumped the RPM's up. How about the plugs on that bank?? Wet, dry???????? When you take that carb apart watch the float to see if it is stuck up.
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Munypit
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Re: Powerglide

Post by Munypit »

Anyone ever encounter trouble removing the main jet from the carburetor bowl?? I'm about at my wits end trying to remove. The left carburetor was in terrible shape, so I thought I should replace main jet in bowl while I had it apart where I could give it a good blowing out with compressed air. Have just about ruined screw slot. Any ideas?? Bowls are impossible to find.


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bbodie52
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Re: Powerglide

Post by bbodie52 »

I discovered long ago that it is often difficult to remove the main jet from the carburetor body. The main jet is manufactured from a soft metal material that is easily damaged with the flat blade screwdriver. If the screwdriver is a perfect fit in the slot and the carburetor body is secured in a vice to hold it in place you might be able to remove a jet that seems to be stubbornly frozen in place. But once the jet has been damaged with the screwdriver I'm not sure how to remove it — unless an "easy out" can be used successfully (?) after drilling the center of the jet to an appropriate size.

Image

The existing jet is likely still usable if only the screwdriver slot has been damaged. Soaking all of the metal components of the carburetor — including the carburetor body — in a bath of carburetor parts dip may provide sufficient cleaning of the internal fuel passages within the carburetor body.

If your problem only seems to be a lack of participation of the left carburetor while the engine is idling, but the engine seems to run well at speed, the main jet and its associated passages may not be the problem. I would suggest a thorough chemical cleaning and careful reassembly of the carburetor using a rebuild kit to see if such a carburetor rebuild clears your problem.
Brad Bodie
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Re: Powerglide

Post by Wagon Master »

Since you've already just about ruined the slot your options are limited. Next time, I've never had one that a hand held impact driver wouldn't get out. Try that this time but you may wind up having to drill it and or use a screw extractor.
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Munypit
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Re: Powerglide

Post by Munypit »

UPDATE: Got jet out with easy-out after over night soak in carburetor cleaner. Now awaiting parts to start rebuild.

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terribleted
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Re: Powerglide

Post by terribleted »

I start out with a flat blade screwdriver as big as I can fit squarely into the Jets slot and before turning it at all I rap the top of the screwdriver a time or 2 with some light hammer blows. They almost always come out after this. If not a bit harder hammer blows (now perhaps slightly deforming the slot deeper) and all but the worst will turn right out.
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Wagon Master
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Re: Powerglide

Post by Wagon Master »

"I start out with a flat blade screwdriver as big as I can fit squarely into the Jets slot and before turning it at all I rap the top of the screwdriver a time or 2 with some light hammer blows. They almost always come out after this. If not a bit harder hammer blows."

This is what the aforementioned impact driver does for you.
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bbodie52
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Re: Powerglide

Post by bbodie52 »

:think:
Although the Corvair carburetor needs to be disassembled so that it can be chemically cleaned using carburetor parts dip, there are some components that may not need to be disassembled as a part of this process. For example, the retaining screws that hold the throttle butterfly valve and the choke butterfly valve in place generally do not need to be removed when cleaning and rebuilding the carburetor. Unless there is evidence of excessive wear in the throttle shaft, for example, the staked screws that hold the throttle butterfly valve in place can be left alone. Removing them requires grinding some of the threads from the screws and then replacing them with new screws that can be restaked upon reassembly. I suspect that removing the main metering jet may also fall into this category. Since the main jet is often very tight and difficult to remove, and can sometimes be damaged by the screwdriver in the removal process, it may be best to just leave it in place during the cleaning process. As you can see in the illustration the internal fuel passages within the carburetor body are very small, and are often smaller than the orifice in the main metering jet. Unless there is evidence that the main metering jet is completely blocked, it may be wise to just leave it in place. The carburetor parts dip chemical cleaner will still pass through the main metering jet and into the passages within the carburetor body. I'm not sure that removing the main jet enhances the chemical cleaning process at all.

Of course if you intend to change the size of the main jet you would need to remove the old jet to replace it. But if you do not intend to change the size of the main metering jet, it is likely acceptable to leave it in place when you clean the carburetor body.
Rochester HV Fuel Passages.jpg
Brad Bodie
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Re: Powerglide

Post by terribleted »

Wagon Master wrote: Fri Sep 15, 2017 4:14 am "I start out with a flat blade screwdriver as big as I can fit squarely into the Jets slot and before turning it at all I rap the top of the screwdriver a time or 2 with some light hammer blows. They almost always come out after this. If not a bit harder hammer blows."

This is what the aforementioned impact driver does for you.
Of course it is the same technique!! The impact drivers I have owned (commonly sold around here) are a little too large in diameter to let the bit fit squarely into the jet without finding a large 5/16 bit longer than the ones supplied with the tool. Only one time have I needed to resort to anything more than a good screwdriver and a few good taps.
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terribleted
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Re: Powerglide

Post by terribleted »

bbodie52 wrote: Fri Sep 15, 2017 5:53 am
Of course if you intend to change the size of the main jet you would need to remove the old jet to replace it. But if you do not intend to change the size of the main metering jet, it is likely acceptable to leave it in place when you clean the carburetor body.

Rochester HV Fuel Passages.jpg
Jet removal sure makes it easier to get the large passage under the jet. It is harder to clean thru a .048-.053 etc hole;)
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/

Located in Snellville, Georgia
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