Checking wiring ignition to starter/battery/coil

All Models and Years
User avatar
66corsaguy
Posts: 125
Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 10:34 pm

Checking wiring ignition to starter/battery/coil

Unread post by 66corsaguy » Fri Sep 01, 2017 3:22 pm

So I have bombarded terribleted with so many private message questions I feel like I should make this a general forum question and maybe others learn also


How do you test the ignition switch and all the wiring to the battery, coil, starter?
I have a multi meter and have been reading about how to use. Should I be checking volts or continuity? And how do you physically test the wires with probes? If I am checking yellow wire to starter I put one probe into the harness wire but what about the ground probe.

Here is background. Not sure it's necessary for these questions tho: 1966 Corsa

I'm still in a no start condition. I am now at the point where I'm checking wiring.
What I've done so far: replaced hot and ground battery terminals. New Crane ignition (this I had decided on before my problems) Switched out ignition switch but not sure if this one is good either as it's Justin a box of crap I have.
Car was running until after too tight rocker adjustment. I've spent a lot of time checking my valve adjustment it's not the problem any more at least. Valves and rods are not bent everything there is fine.
This seems electrical

I bench tested started- it works and looks good. Battery is good and charged. And has over 12 v may be a tad low cos I've been stuck here.

It used to crank a little but now nothing. I have a new wire for starter coming. I re wires the yellow wire to the starter temporarily
When I try to start lights go dead for a second. Accesory lights are fine. I checked fuse. It's fine.

What the heck?


Sent from my iPhone using Corvair Forum mobile app

dave t
Posts: 74
Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2017 7:16 pm

Re: Checking wiring ignition to starter/battery/coil

Unread post by dave t » Fri Sep 01, 2017 5:05 pm

Ignore the yellow wire for now. The purple wire on the starter is the start wire from the keyswitch. Put the negative probe from the volt meter on a good ground under the car. The positive wire goes on the purple wire on the starter. Have someone turn the key to start. You should get 12v. If not. Check the purple wire plug in the engine compartment at the firewall. That plug fails often. See if you get 12v at the purple wire in the engine compartment while the key is in start mode. Test both sides of the plug.
Give us a report or send me a personal msg and I will help you out. Dave

Sent from my SM-G930V using Corvair Forum mobile app


User avatar
acarlson
Posts: 278
Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2016 5:54 pm
Location: Dahlonega, GA

Re: Checking wiring ignition to starter/battery/coil

Unread post by acarlson » Fri Sep 01, 2017 5:38 pm

If I were you, I'd eliminate all the car wiring and just see if the engine will start and run. See diagram below:
Wiring.jpg
Wiring.jpg (51.13 KiB) Viewed 256 times
Get yourself a remote starter switch.
Get a SPST switch.
Disconnect all wiring from the engine except for the XR-700.
Disconnect yellow and purple wire from the Starter.
Disconnect any non-XR-700 wire from the coil.
You got an external ballast resistor - use it.
If you wire up according to the diagram you should be able to start and run the engine
Connect the remote starter switch to the Starter.
Put the SPST switch in the ON position
Pull the trigger on the remote starter switch
---Engine should crank and start----
Flip the SPST switch to OFF to shut down the engine
Simple.

Do not leave the SPST switch ON if the engine is not running. The resistor will get VERY hot...

If that works, then you know the engine is fine and you can trace your electrical problem in your wiring. I say eliminate the engine issue first since it's easy to do. If it doesn't start then you still have a timing/valve problem. Stay on the engine till it's running. Then move on to other issues.

Alec
1965 Regal Red Corsa 4 Speed Turbo Convertible

gnrand
Posts: 241
Joined: Sun Nov 15, 2015 8:10 am
Location: Wildomar,Ca

Re: Checking wiring ignition to starter/battery/coil

Unread post by gnrand » Fri Sep 01, 2017 6:37 pm

All the fuses are good?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Corvair Forum mobile app

1965 140 Corsa
1968 140 Monza convertible 4 speed
1965 Corsa Convertible
1986 Buick GN V6 600hp

User avatar
terribleted
Posts: 2009
Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2010 2:36 pm
Location: Atlanta, GA
Contact:

Re: Checking wiring ignition to starter/battery/coil

Unread post by terribleted » Fri Sep 01, 2017 7:52 pm

Using your wiring diagram you can follow the 12V signal from the battery to the ignition switch and back to the starter and ignition if you like. I would check for 12V at the input to the ignition switch. I would check for voltage at the coil when switch is in run and start. I would check for 12V on the solenoid S terminal (PPL) wire with the ignition switch held in the start position. If you have starting voltage on the S terminal w/switch in start, 6-12V at the coil with the switch in run and 12V in run then you ignition switch is doing what it is suppose to relative to starting and running the engine. If any voltage is missing you move from the end of the run toward the battery checking each plug until you find out where the voltage stops...your problem is at that plug or the section of wire just past where you actually found the voltage. If voltages are good then since you told me the engine turns readily with a wrench either a bad battery, starter or starter ring gear issue is causing the no crank.
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/

Located in Snellville, Georgia

64powerglide
Posts: 1217
Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2014 9:18 pm
Location: Kalamazoo Mi..

Re: Checking wiring ignition to starter/battery/coil

Unread post by 64powerglide » Fri Sep 01, 2017 8:46 pm

Did you bench test the solenoid when you tested the starter motor? Are you saying the starter will not turn the engine over & nothing happens when you turn the key to the start position??? When you start the car the starter motor & solenoid have to work at the same time, bad solenoid no start.
64Powerglide, Jeff Phillips

Kalamazoo, Mi..

User avatar
66corsaguy
Posts: 125
Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 10:34 pm

Re: Checking wiring ignition to starter/battery/coil

Unread post by 66corsaguy » Sat Sep 02, 2017 8:40 am

acarlson wrote:If I were you, I'd eliminate all the car wiring and just see if the engine will start and run. See diagram below:
Wiring.jpg
Get yourself a remote starter switch.
Get a SPST switch.
Disconnect all wiring from the engine except for the XR-700.
Disconnect yellow and purple wire from the Starter.
Disconnect any non-XR-700 wire from the coil.
You got an external ballast resistor - use it.
If you wire up according to the diagram you should be able to start and run the engine
Connect the remote starter switch to the Starter.
Put the SPST switch in the ON position
Pull the trigger on the remote starter switch
---Engine should crank and start----
Flip the SPST switch to OFF to shut down the engine
Simple.

Do not leave the SPST switch ON if the engine is not running. The resistor will get VERY hot...

If that works, then you know the engine is fine and you can trace your electrical problem in your wiring. I say eliminate the engine issue first since it's easy to do. If it doesn't start then you still have a timing/valve problem. Stay on the engine till it's running. Then move on to other issues.

Alec
I have a remote starter. I will pick up a switch today and try this. It's a great idea!! Thank you so much what a clever plan!! I am thinking it's electrical but maybe it's mechanical. It started after over tightened valves.
I think with the 700 I have to reset my timing but I've not been able to run since switching over. It was pertronix prior and possibly timing is really whacked since I had not switched from points to the 700.
Is there a way to check timing without running motor?


Sent from my iPhone using Corvair Forum mobile app

User avatar
66corsaguy
Posts: 125
Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 10:34 pm

Re: Checking wiring ignition to starter/battery/coil

Unread post by 66corsaguy » Sat Sep 02, 2017 8:41 am

dave t wrote:Ignore the yellow wire for now. The purple wire on the starter is the start wire from the keyswitch. Put the negative probe from the volt meter on a good ground under the car. The positive wire goes on the purple wire on the starter. Have someone turn the key to start. You should get 12v. If not. Check the purple wire plug in the engine compartment at the firewall. That plug fails often. See if you get 12v at the purple wire in the engine compartment while the key is in start mode. Test both sides of the plug.
Give us a report or send me a personal msg and I will help you out. Dave

Sent from my SM-G930V using Corvair Forum mobile app
Ok I will. I don't have anyone to help me at the moment. New wire and housing should arrive Monday or Tuesday.


Sent from my iPhone using Corvair Forum mobile app

User avatar
66corsaguy
Posts: 125
Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 10:34 pm

Re: Checking wiring ignition to starter/battery/coil

Unread post by 66corsaguy » Sat Sep 02, 2017 8:44 am

64powerglide wrote:Did you bench test the solenoid when you tested the starter motor? Are you saying the starter will not turn the engine over & nothing happens when you turn the key to the start position??? When you start the car the starter motor & solenoid have to work at the same time, bad solenoid no start.
I tested the starter I assumed this would test solenoid also? Can you tell me how to isolate and check solenoid ?
I pulled starter off, put it into my vice and attached battery with jumper cables. With additional wire from hot to S the starter spun with great force and speed.


Sent from my iPhone using Corvair Forum mobile app

User avatar
66corsaguy
Posts: 125
Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 10:34 pm

Re: Checking wiring ignition to starter/battery/coil

Unread post by 66corsaguy » Sat Sep 02, 2017 8:47 am

66corsaguy wrote:
64powerglide wrote:Did you bench test the solenoid when you tested the starter motor? Are you saying the starter will not turn the engine over & nothing happens when you turn the key to the start position??? When you start the car the starter motor & solenoid have to work at the same time, bad solenoid no start.
I tested the starter I assumed this would test solenoid also? Can you tell me how to isolate and check solenoid ?
I pulled starter off, put it into my vice and attached battery with jumper cables. With additional wire from hot to S the starter spun with great force and speed.


Sent from my iPhone using Corvair Forum mobile app
Yes nothing happens when I turn the key. Anymore. It used to crank but not turn over. Now no crank. On occasion if it's been a little while since I tried to start it will make a small effort to crank, for a millisecond (as if sitting allowed it to fill with energy) and than additional attempts to start leads to no noise no nothing.


Sent from my iPhone using Corvair Forum mobile app

User avatar
66corsaguy
Posts: 125
Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 10:34 pm

Re: Checking wiring ignition to starter/battery/coil

Unread post by 66corsaguy » Sat Sep 02, 2017 8:52 am

gnrand wrote:All the fuses are good?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Corvair Forum mobile app
I physically looked at the fuses and I see no breaks in the post inside. I'm assuming a visual check is all that's needed? Should I check continuity with meter on each fuse?




Sent from my iPhone using Corvair Forum mobile app

User avatar
66corsaguy
Posts: 125
Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 10:34 pm

Re: Checking wiring ignition to starter/battery/coil

Unread post by 66corsaguy » Sat Sep 02, 2017 9:00 am

terribleted wrote:Using your wiring diagram you can follow the 12V signal from the battery to the ignition switch and back to the starter and ignition if you like. I would check for 12V at the input to the ignition switch. I would check for voltage at the coil when switch is in run and start. I would check for 12V on the solenoid S terminal (PPL) wire with the ignition switch held in the start position. If you have starting voltage on the S terminal w/switch in start, 6-12V at the coil with the switch in run and 12V in run then you ignition switch is doing what it is suppose to relative to starting and running the engine. If any voltage is missing you move from the end of the run toward the battery checking each plug until you find out where the voltage stops...your problem is at that plug or the section of wire just past where you actually found the voltage. If voltages are good then since you told me the engine turns readily with a wrench either a bad battery, starter or starter ring gear issue is causing the no crank.
Ok. Thanks AGAIN Ted. I have not been able to follow the wires yet as I just got the meter in but more importantly, I need additional set of hands. I can fly you to San Francisco? Lol.
Yes I am glad the motor does turn with manual attempts. I didn't bust it that bad with those valves overtightened!!!
It sounds like the magic number is 12v or 6-12v at coil (I assume this is due to resistor wire)

Hey Ted my brown wire attached to the coil negative that is my tachometer ?


Sent from my iPhone using Corvair Forum mobile app

User avatar
bbodie52
Corvair of the Month
Corvair of the Month
Posts: 7356
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:33 pm
Location: Lake Chatuge Hayesville, NC
Contact:

Re: Checking wiring ignition to starter/battery/coil

Unread post by bbodie52 » Sat Sep 02, 2017 9:12 am

66corsaguy wrote:Fri Sep 01, 2017 5:22 pm

It used to crank a little but now nothing. I have a new wire for starter coming. I re wires the yellow wire to the starter temporarily
When I try to start lights go dead for a second. Accesory lights are fine. I checked fuse. It's fine.


What the heck?
I have read through the previous comments, but I have not seen any pictures of your engine compartment and have not seen any comments concerning the ground connections for your battery. Assuming that the battery does not have any dead or shorted cells and is holding a charge and is capable of delivering the amperage needed to power the starter motor, I'm troubled by your comment about the lights going dead for a second.

As shown in the schematic wiring diagram for the Corvair below, as well as in some of the photographs, a properly grounded electrical system in a Corvair requires two connections. The ground connection that supports the starter motor must be a heavy, thick gauge cable that is the equivalent of the positive cable in current carrying capacity. The thick positive cable is connected directly to the starter motor. Its only job is to provide current to the starter motor while the engine is being cranked. Essentially all of the remaining electrical needs of the Corvair are provided through the thin 12gauge wire that also travels from the positive battery terminal to the Corvair — in this case to provide voltage to essentially every other electrical circuit in the car. In an automotive electrical system, all the electrical support that is seen from the positive terminal of the battery must have an equivalent on the negative terminal. In other words, there should be a thick ground cable that is connected directly to the engine (not to the car chassis). The starter motor draws more current than any other device in the car. It must have an equivalent return path for that current that connects to the negative side of the battery. The engine and transaxle are physically isolated from the car chassis by three rubber motor mounts. These mounts are designed to isolate much of the engine vibration from the car, but at the same time they also electrically isolate the engine from the chassis. Because of this, a ground connection from the battery negative terminal to the car chassis would not provide an adequate ground return path from the starter motor to the negative terminal of the battery. A heavy 6gauge positive cable delivers current to the starter motor, and an equivalent 6gauge negative cable must return from the engine to the battery negative terminal.

In the wiring diagram you will see a red 12gauge wire that is tied to a distribution point and then moves on to the charging system and remaining car electrical wiring harness. This wire delivers current to all the accessories, headlights, electrical fan, windshield wipers, turn signals, etc. The ground return for all of these devices is the car chassis itself. In the wiring schematic you will notice a 12gauge black wire that is connected to the car chassis, and a 6gauge thick cable that is connected to the engine. Both grounds are essential for proper operation of the car electrical systems. The fact that you mentioned that the lights dim when you engage the starter may be an indication of an inadequate current carrying capacity in your wiring harness and grounding system. Please inspect your battery connections to see if they match the wiring requirements shown in the wiring schematic. If you find the ground cable bolted to the chassis and no additional connection to the engine, this could be the cause of your starter failure. (I am assuming that when you state that your car will not start, you are actually saying that the engine will not crank when the starter is engaged. The engine failing to start normally means that you are cranking the engine, but it refuses to start. When trying to diagnose an electrical problem over the Internet, we need to know if your problem is the engine failing to turn when the starter is engaged, or if the engine fails to start, even when the starter motor is correctly doing its job).

Two Connections.jpg
To see the full schematic diagram...
:link: viewtopic.php?f=225&t=12968

Image

Image

Image

As mentioned earlier, the yellow wire that connects to the starter solenoid has nothing to do with the starter motor or starter solenoid's ability to crank the engine when the ignition key is turned to START. The yellow wire only provides 12 V DC to the ignition coil positive terminal for the period of time that the engine is being cranked. This has the effect of boosting the coil output to the spark plugs to promote starting while the engine is being cranked.

The purple wire shown in the illustration below is the one that connects directly to your ignition switch in the dashboard. When you rotate the key to START, 12 V DC is applied to the starter solenoid via the purple wire. This voltage triggers the solenoid so that it physically moves the starter mechanism to engage with a large ring gear on the clutch assembly or torque converter. At the same time, heavy duty contacts inside the starter solenoid complete the circuit between the 6gauge positive battery cable and the starter motor itself. In this way the starter motor receives its current through a special heavy duty switch that is inside the starter solenoid. The ignition switch in the dashboard actually handles very little electrical current. It only provides a small current via the purple wire that triggers the starter solenoid. The solenoid itself handles the heavy current needed by the starter motor. (If you were to utilize a remote starter switch to trigger the solenoid, you would clip one lead to the cable that connects directly to the battery positive terminal. The other lead of the remote starter switch would be clipped to the solenoid terminal labeled "S", which is the same terminal that is already connected to the purple wire. Pushing the button on the remote starter switch establishes a connection between the battery and the "S" terminal, which triggers the starter solenoid. This bypasses the entire wiring harness and the ignition switch in the dashboard. It is a method used to trigger the starter motor directly from the engine compartment location. It is also a method you can use to bypass the wiring harness between the dashboard and the starter motor, which would help you to determine if you had an ignition switch/wiring harness problem or starter problem).
1965-1969 Corvair Engine Compartment Wiring Harness Starter Connections.jpg
1965-1969 Corvair Engine Compartment Wiring Harness Starter Connections.jpg (80.88 KiB) Viewed 206 times
Image

The 12-pin multiconnector in the engine compartment is sometimes a point of electrical disruption. With the exception of some cylinder head temperature sensor(s), almost everything passes through that multiconnector. Since it is aging, and physically located within the engine compartment (below the voltage regulator, near the firewall), it is exposed to moisture, heat and vibration. The metal contacts inside the plastic connector shell can become corroded, loose, bent, etc. So it might be helpful to carefully separate the two halves and inspect the condition of the pins inside. Sometimes simply unplugging and reconnecting the two halves will clear the problem, as re-seating all of those connections may reestablish a previously marginal electrical contact. If you want to attempt any cleaning with a wire brush, chemical contact cleaner, etc. you should disconnect the battery ground terminal to avoid creating any undesired electrical shorts.

If you suspect a battery problem, he could try substituting an alternate battery (if available), or take your existing battery to an auto parts store, Sears, etc. to have it load tested. This sometimes identifies faulty batteries that have dead cells or an internal short that prevents it from delivering the current needed to crank the engine.

Sometimes dirty battery terminals will cause just enough isolation between the battery cable and the battery terminal to prevent current flow to the starter motor. A wire brush like the one below should be used to clean the battery terminals and the inside of the battery cable connectors to ensure a clean connection on both the positive and negative terminals.

Image
Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible

64powerglide
Posts: 1217
Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2014 9:18 pm
Location: Kalamazoo Mi..

Re: Checking wiring ignition to starter/battery/coil

Unread post by 64powerglide » Sat Sep 02, 2017 10:32 am

This is the beat I could find, if you don't hear a click when you turn the key you are not getting voltage to the solenoid. You can run a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to the S terminal "purple wire" on the solenoid. Get a long wire with alligator clips & hook one end to the purple wire terminal & touch the positive post on the battery. That should kick in the starter, if it doesn't then you have to check the ignition switch. This video give you the basics of what is going on.

64Powerglide, Jeff Phillips

Kalamazoo, Mi..

User avatar
terribleted
Posts: 2009
Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2010 2:36 pm
Location: Atlanta, GA
Contact:

Re: Checking wiring ignition to starter/battery/coil

Unread post by terribleted » Sat Sep 02, 2017 3:39 pm

The brown wire feeds the tach.
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/

Located in Snellville, Georgia

User avatar
66corsaguy
Posts: 125
Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 10:34 pm

Re: Checking wiring ignition to starter/battery/coil

Unread post by 66corsaguy » Sat Sep 02, 2017 3:56 pm

bbodie52 wrote:
66corsaguy wrote:Fri Sep 01, 2017 5:22 pm

It used to crank a little but now nothing. I have a new wire for starter coming. I re wires the yellow wire to the starter temporarily
When I try to start lights go dead for a second. Accesory lights are fine. I checked fuse. It's fine.


What the heck?
I have read through the previous comments, but I have not seen any pictures of your engine compartment and have not seen any comments concerning the ground connections for your battery. Assuming that the battery does not have any dead or shorted cells and is holding a charge and is capable of delivering the amperage needed to power the starter motor, I'm troubled by your comment about the lights going dead for a second.

As shown in the schematic wiring diagram for the Corvair below, as well as in some of the photographs, a properly grounded electrical system in a Corvair requires two connections. The ground connection that supports the starter motor must be a heavy, thick gauge cable that is the equivalent of the positive cable in current carrying capacity. The thick positive cable is connected directly to the starter motor. Its only job is to provide current to the starter motor while the engine is being cranked. Essentially all of the remaining electrical needs of the Corvair are provided through the thin 12gauge wire that also travels from the positive battery terminal to the Corvair — in this case to provide voltage to essentially every other electrical circuit in the car. In an automotive electrical system, all the electrical support that is seen from the positive terminal of the battery must have an equivalent on the negative terminal. In other words, there should be a thick ground cable that is connected directly to the engine (not to the car chassis). The starter motor draws more current than any other device in the car. It must have an equivalent return path for that current that connects to the negative side of the battery. The engine and transaxle are physically isolated from the car chassis by three rubber motor mounts. These mounts are designed to isolate much of the engine vibration from the car, but at the same time they also electrically isolate the engine from the chassis. Because of this, a ground connection from the battery negative terminal to the car chassis would not provide an adequate ground return path from the starter motor to the negative terminal of the battery. A heavy 6gauge positive cable delivers current to the starter motor, and an equivalent 6gauge negative cable must return from the engine to the battery negative terminal.

In the wiring diagram you will see a red 12gauge wire that is tied to a distribution point and then moves on to the charging system and remaining car electrical wiring harness. This wire delivers current to all the accessories, headlights, electrical fan, windshield wipers, turn signals, etc. The ground return for all of these devices is the car chassis itself. In the wiring schematic you will notice a 12gauge black wire that is connected to the car chassis, and a 6gauge thick cable that is connected to the engine. Both grounds are essential for proper operation of the car electrical systems. The fact that you mentioned that the lights dim when you engage the starter may be an indication of an inadequate current carrying capacity in your wiring harness and grounding system. Please inspect your battery connections to see if they match the wiring requirements shown in the wiring schematic. If you find the ground cable bolted to the chassis and no additional connection to the engine, this could be the cause of your starter failure. (I am assuming that when you state that your car will not start, you are actually saying that the engine will not crank when the starter is engaged. The engine failing to start normally means that you are cranking the engine, but it refuses to start. When trying to diagnose an electrical problem over the Internet, we need to know if your problem is the engine failing to turn when the starter is engaged, or if the engine fails to start, even when the starter motor is correctly doing its job).

Two Connections.jpg
To see the full schematic diagram...
:link: viewtopic.php?f=225&t=12968

Image

Image

Image

As mentioned earlier, the yellow wire that connects to the starter solenoid has nothing to do with the starter motor or starter solenoid's ability to crank the engine when the ignition key is turned to START. The yellow wire only provides 12 V DC to the ignition coil positive terminal for the period of time that the engine is being cranked. This has the effect of boosting the coil output to the spark plugs to promote starting while the engine is being cranked.

The purple wire shown in the illustration below is the one that connects directly to your ignition switch in the dashboard. When you rotate the key to START, 12 V DC is applied to the starter solenoid via the purple wire. This voltage triggers the solenoid so that it physically moves the starter mechanism to engage with a large ring gear on the clutch assembly or torque converter. At the same time, heavy duty contacts inside the starter solenoid complete the circuit between the 6gauge positive battery cable and the starter motor itself. In this way the starter motor receives its current through a special heavy duty switch that is inside the starter solenoid. The ignition switch in the dashboard actually handles very little electrical current. It only provides a small current via the purple wire that triggers the starter solenoid. The solenoid itself handles the heavy current needed by the starter motor. (If you were to utilize a remote starter switch to trigger the solenoid, you would clip one lead to the cable that connects directly to the battery positive terminal. The other lead of the remote starter switch would be clipped to the solenoid terminal labeled "S", which is the same terminal that is already connected to the purple wire. Pushing the button on the remote starter switch establishes a connection between the battery and the "S" terminal, which triggers the starter solenoid. This bypasses the entire wiring harness and the ignition switch in the dashboard. It is a method used to trigger the starter motor directly from the engine compartment location. It is also a method you can use to bypass the wiring harness between the dashboard and the starter motor, which would help you to determine if you had an ignition switch/wiring harness problem or starter problem).
1965-1969 Corvair Engine Compartment Wiring Harness Starter Connections.jpg
Image

The 12-pin multiconnector in the engine compartment is sometimes a point of electrical disruption. With the exception of some cylinder head temperature sensor(s), almost everything passes through that multiconnector. Since it is aging, and physically located within the engine compartment (below the voltage regulator, near the firewall), it is exposed to moisture, heat and vibration. The metal contacts inside the plastic connector shell can become corroded, loose, bent, etc. So it might be helpful to carefully separate the two halves and inspect the condition of the pins inside. Sometimes simply unplugging and reconnecting the two halves will clear the problem, as re-seating all of those connections may reestablish a previously marginal electrical contact. If you want to attempt any cleaning with a wire brush, chemical contact cleaner, etc. you should disconnect the battery ground terminal to avoid creating any undesired electrical shorts.

If you suspect a battery problem, he could try substituting an alternate battery (if available), or take your existing battery to an auto parts store, Sears, etc. to have it load tested. This sometimes identifies faulty batteries that have dead cells or an internal short that prevents it from delivering the current needed to crank the engine.

Sometimes dirty battery terminals will cause just enough isolation between the battery cable and the battery terminal to prevent current flow to the starter motor. A wire brush like the one below should be used to clean the battery terminals and the inside of the battery cable connectors to ensure a clean connection on both the positive and negative terminals.

Image
Yesterday I sanded the pole on the battery and cleaned it up I than put a new terminal on. I have a brand new engine harness from clarks and it did start since I've installed that about a month ago. Last week I suspected poor battery so I brought to O'Reilleys and they kept it for several hours and charged it and it came off their machine with a "good" rating. When I put my volt meter on it just now it's at about 10. I believe it's because I am working in the car and the lights are on and since it's not running it's not recharging.
I will try to jump it again from my van but I tried the other day at it did not work

I also tried my remote starter and still nothing.

When I say it does not start I mean there's absolutely nothing happening. No turning over no start no movement of anything that I can tell from the drivers seat. Dead as a doornail.

I've gone thru my battery ground several times as Ted also mentioned that the lights going out sounds like a relationship to insufficient or ill supplied ground but I am "confident" that's proper but I will include photos. Image
Image

Right now my secondary carbs the fuel line is capped off because one was leaking and I have to figure out how to fix (you suggested the repair Keith for the throttle bar and I am going to order thru clarks once I get running again) It did run after I capped the fuel line off.

I think I've covered all the points here let me know if you see anything I am going to include some additional photos for viewing maybe you see something. Image

I just tried to start it again. When it sits for a little bit and I turn the key on I hear the starter try to engage. NOT a click but I can hear the actual rotater trying for a millisecond. And than nothing. Further attempts I hear nothing. Almost as if there's a little bit of energy sitting there but not enough to crank

I did bench test the starter. I thought that meant solenoid was ok but maybe not so.

Thank you for your help.






Sent from my iPhone using Corvair Forum mobile app

Post Reply

Return to “Ask your Mechanical Questions here”