Clutch response

[my65]

Today I took the 1963 out for a ride to Galveston Texas, about 180 miles round trip. It ran great after 30 mph ( still working on carburetors) but I notices that the clutch was engaging about two inches off the floor by the time I got home, and it was taking more pressure to push it in. I had just adjusted it a few weeks ago ( to engage about two inches from top ) and don't know if the cable could be stretching???? The car is a 1963 with a 1964 transaxle and a 1965 motor. Are all those years clutch linkage compatible??
I had to move my 1965 convertible out of it's storage location ( because the a/c people are to be here tomorrow at 9:00am to work on the unit) and it's clutch took half the pressure and engaged about two inches from the top!! Where should I look for the problem

[66vairguy]

Really difficult to "guess" on this.

If the clutch disc was new it could easily change that much as the "fuzz" wears off.

If the clutch disc is broken in then I'd check for a cable off the pulley, or something awry with the linkage - all the way back to the "Z" bar. Folks tend to forget the "Z" bar needs to be lubed and it DID NOT come with a zerk fitting from the factory, just a plug (Clarks has the zerk fitting - it's a big one). I've run into a couple so badly worn at the ball that they had to be replaced.

[my65]

Thanks 66vairguy. I do not know how old the clutch and pressure plate are...just bought car a month ago. I will check the clutch cable pulleys and add the grease zerk to the Z bar.
I was just wondering if the different transaxle and body manufacturing years ( 63 and 64 ) could be part of the stiffness??
Never had disc spring break.....will it make any noise ??

[Wagon Master]

If it's a true Corvair disc, it won't have any springs.

[bbodie52]

I would think that the differences in clutch feel and performance might very well be related to a problem with the clutch cable or pulleys. The clutch cables can snap without warning, or the pulleys can fracture — which could be causing the change in clutch feel that you have noticed.

I have included a link to the Clark's Corvair Parts catalog page that covers clutch cables and pulleys. A spare clutch cable is one spare part that might be worth carrying in the trunk, sense a snapped clutch cable can occur without warning and can be a real "show stopper" if it breaks. It is not a part that you will ever find at a local store, and having a spare could make a roadside repair possible.

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... N&page=112


The clutch design was changed in 1964, as shown in the illustration and description below. Either clutch design can be used in early or later Corvairs, but you cannot mix some of the components from each version. The correct pivot ball stud and throw out bearing must be matched with the pressure plate and flywheel design. With your 1964 and later differential and engine I would guess that the "bent finger" clutch components were used in your car. In any case the cable, pulleys and other clutch actuation components would be compatible with either clutch design.

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... w_page=108

[66vairguy]

Most of my experience is on the LM cars. You said you car was a combination 63 and 64. Not sure what you combo is , but in 64 a number of changes were made in the engine and transaxle/rear suspension. Installing the 64 rear suspension in an earlier car is a popular modification since the 64 swing axle suspension was revised with softer springs and a leaf spring between the axle backing plates that required a different differential housing for the bracket. Also the 64 flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, aand bellhousing were revised to change the geometry. Mixing 64 and earlier parts can lead to issues.

The 64 upgrades improved handling and enhanced clutch release at higher RPM.

Now - before jumping to conclusions your problem happened rather suddenly so again it sounds like something changed quickly.

As far as the clutch pressure plate goes - the Corvair and most cars of the era use a single one piece flex diaphragm, not individual springs (big trucks) to put pressure on the clutch disc. When the diaphragm fails you USUALLY get softer pedal pressure. Since your pedal dropped to disengage the clutch that would indicate the linkage got "longer" or the clutch disc. got a lot thicker suddenly. While rare the clutch disc friction material can fail causing it to "bunch" up and the clutch pedal would drop.

Again don't jump to expensive conclusions. Inspect the cable and linkage, and adjust. Check the bellhousing to differential bolts (make sure there is no gap as it has been reported the bolts can come loose). Wait to see what happens.

[my65]

Thanks to all who replied and gave me a punch list where to look! While waiting for them to replace the evaporated coils and plenum in my home, I lubricated both air vent cables and made a slight carburetor adjustment. I think ya'll are correct and that my problem is fairly minor and or a lack of maintenance. We will see after the holiday!

THANK YOU TO ALL THE MILITARY ( PAST AND PRESENT ) OUT THERE FOR OUR FREEDOM.