Making my Corvair UK road legal

CorvairCon65 · Post by **CorvairCon65** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 5:58 am

Hi all,

My 65 Corvair convertible is due to arrive in the UK soon and I will have to work on her to pass an annual inspection test (MOT) so I can register her to be road legal.

So, my questions are...

What size are the headlamps? I need to change for similar units which dip to the other side of the road. Can they handle halogen bulbs or would I need to fit a relay?

Rear turn signals on mine are red but here they need to flash amber. I was thinking perhaps of using a pair of back up lenses instead with amber bulbs, would that work? Do the indicators also work as stop signals or are they independent (i.e. turn signal only)?

I have no windscreen washer which I will need to fit. I see Clarke's had a package which converts a car with no washer to a washer system but they apparently no longer stock it. I'll probably fit an aftermarket to see me through for now. I believe the washer switch works off the wiper switch? If that's true then how easy is it to convert to a twin speed wiper system and possibly amalgamate the washer system? We do get our fair share of rain over here in the UK!

And if anyone fancies decoding my VIN (pretty please...) it's 105675L107894

Thanks for any assistance,

Pete.

Post by **66vairguy** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 9:05 am

India has companies that make the quad headlights that will fit the Corvair and of course they are set up for driving on "the other side of the road" like the U.K. Typically they use H4 and H1 bulbs, which come in all kinds of wattages. You might check with other U.K. car clubs that import U.S. cars since all U.S. cars in the 60's used either quad or dual headlamps of the same configuration (mounting and alignment tabs).

The Corvair headlamp switch has a built in thermal breaker rated at 15Amps. In the U.S. I use H4 bulbs and on LOW BEAM and they are fine, but on HIGH BEAM (all four headlamps on) a relay is required or the headlamp switch thermal breaker will open and close intermittently (heats up and opens, cools and closes) as a safety feature, although having you headlights flash on and off every half second on a dark road isn't very safe, but better than just losing all light. With a relay system you fuse each side separately (as done in Europe) so if a fuse blows you still have light on one side of the car.

CorvairCon65 · Post by **CorvairCon65** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:28 am

Thanks for that, I will look out for the RHD headlamps. Think fuses/relays the way to go then. Wiring is a black art for me but I know people in the auto trade who can sort out for me as a nice private job...

Post by **bbodie52** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:30 am

VIN: 105675L107894

Corvair VIN Decoding Detail
Late Car VIN Detail

(1965-1969)

Your car is a 1965 Monza convertible.
It was the 7894th Corvair built at Los Angeles that year.

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... IN&page=95

The brake/turn signal and tail light bulb is an 1157. You can order amber 1157 bulbs (standard or LED replacement) from sources like Amazon.com.

The turn signal and brake circuit are the same from the steering column to the tail lamp, so the brake light and turn signal light are the same filament in the bulb. The other bulb filament is a separate circuit for the running /tail lights. The turn signal switch changes the circuit, so that when you activate a turn signal the power source (brake light pedal switch) is disconnected on the turning side, and the bulb filaments are temporarily connected to the turn signal flasher in the fuse block as the flashing power source. The same switching action in the turn signal switch adds the front lights and the instrument panel turn signal light to the circuit. The opposite side remains unchanged, so that braking is indicated on that side, while the turn signal is indicated on the other side. When the turn signal is cancelled, all circuits return to normal, with both rear lamps powred by the brake lamp switch.

: 1965-1969 Corvair Engine Compartment Wiring Diagram (CORRECTED)

: 1965-1969 Corvair - Instrument Cluster and Body Harness (CORRECTED)

: 1965-1969 Corvair Interior Compartment Wiring Diagram Turn Signal Sw Labels

: 1965-1969 Corvair Interior Compartment Wiring Diagram

: 1965-1969 Corvair Trunk Schematic Diagram

CorvairCon65 · Post by **CorvairCon65** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 12:30 pm

This is superb, many thanks Brad!

Post by **66vairguy** » Wed Aug 19, 2015 3:47 pm

Yes relays and fusses are the way to go. Use new headlamp sockets. Keep in mind the Corvair has the battery in back and unlike front engine cars the headlamp supply line runs a LONG way from the battery. Add to that the poor grounding scheme and it's not unusual for Corvair headlamps to be dim.

Use the headlamp switch/floor dimmer switch wiring to run the relays and run a NEW large 12 gauge power wire from the battery/alt connection to power the headlamps via fuses. Then install 16 gauge (or larger) ground wires from each headlamp socket to a good body ground. That will do it. Easy for any good automotive electrical person.

CorvairCon65 · Post by **CorvairCon65** » Thu Aug 20, 2015 7:52 am

Stop the press! Have discovered that if my car was first used before 1st September 1965 then it's ok to keep the turn signal/brake arrangement stock. Trouble is mine is a Vermont car and in the day there were no title documents issued in the New England states. Is there any way of finding out when she was first on the road?

Post by **66vairguy** » Thu Aug 20, 2015 8:36 am

CorvairCon65 wrote:Stop the press! Have discovered that if my car was first used before 1st September 1965 then it's ok to keep the turn signal/brake arrangement stock. Trouble is mine is a Vermont car and in the day there were no title documents issued in the New England states. Is there any way of finding out when she was first on the road?

If memory serves me, the 1965 Chevrolet model year sales started in Sept. 1964 and ended by Sept. 1965 - so it would be almost certain your car was "on the road" BEFORE September 1st, 1965. I'm not sure how U.K. government bureaucracy works, but I suspect you can show the 1965 Chevrolet models were not built after August 1965 they will accept that. BTW - you can use the VIN serial number to and body tag to get figure out what month the car was built. If the car was built earlier in the model year it would be almost certain it was "on the road" before September 1st, 1965.

If they want the lights changed, not a big deal. In the U.S.A. it not uncommon for Vair owners to replace the backup lamps with tail/brake lamps. All you have to do is run a separate wire from the brake switch to two of the rear bulb sockets and disconnect the wire from the brake switch to the turn signal switch so it only blinks the other set of bulbs on the original brake/turn wire. Move those sockets to the backup lens and use an amber bulb. What about back up lights - there are a number of options, but I like the low power LED lamps because they are easier on the backup light switch.

SteveH · Post by **SteveH** » Thu Aug 20, 2015 9:28 am

interesting post here about cars being stamped with the date of delivery. Minehas this stamp of the VIN and the TAG
http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,757926" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

CorvairCon65 · Post by **CorvairCon65** » Thu Aug 20, 2015 11:06 am

That is interesting indeed, I shall look at mine when it arrives.

Speaking with my friendly vehicle inspector he tells me I should be ok and better still, if I can prove that the car did not have windshield washers fitted at the factory then I can't fail the test on them being missing. Thanks to help on her I can now do that because I have guidance on the VIN number and I would have an extra letter denoting the comfort/convenience pack which I don't have fitted. Better still, my friend tells me that original headlamps had a flat beam (as opposed to angled kerbside) and if that's the case then it will be legal here. So I might not have to worry too much, fingers crossed!

CorvairCon65 · Post by **CorvairCon65** » Tue Sep 01, 2015 2:23 pm

Well, she's home today and seems to have faired well from her travels.

CorvairCon65 · Post by **CorvairCon65** » Tue Sep 01, 2015 2:27 pm

CorvairCon65 · Post by **CorvairCon65** » Tue Sep 01, 2015 2:31 pm

My recovery man tells me that she drove onto the trailer at the docks and the missus says she drove it off the trailer and onto the driveway, yet when I got home she wouldn't start, no warning lights or anything.

Is there a nack to starting these? Presume in neutral with handbrake on but anything else? Was wondering if the battery might be pancaked but then the heavens opened before I could get the multi meter the heavens opened. And she leaks...sigh...

Update...checked battery this morning and totally flat, so looks like she has a charging issue or something continually draining the battery...

cad-kid · Post by **cad-kid** » Wed Sep 02, 2015 7:10 am

Congrats on having it delivered safe :coolphotos:

After your battery is charged, check for something drawing power when the car is off.

Possible sources of draw are interior lights (if the headlamp switch is rotated one way the interior lights will stay on). The glove box light, the brake lights (switch can go out of adjustment). The voltage regulator can stick and this can draw a good amount of current.

Keep us posted :goodpost:

Post by **66vairguy** » Wed Sep 02, 2015 8:46 am

Congrates, nice car.

She leaks!!! Yes convertibles do leak. I hope you'll be able to store it in an enclosure when not in use (U.S. term is a garage). DO check under the rear seat that is an infamous place for water to collect. Corvair convertible lower rear seat frames are scarce due to corrosion damage from leaking tops.

Post by **bbodie52** » Wed Sep 02, 2015 1:11 pm

CorvairCon65 wrote:...My recovery man tells me that she drove onto the trailer at the docks and the missus says she drove it off the trailer and onto the driveway, yet when I got home she wouldn't start, no warning lights or anything.

Assuming that your battery is not dead and the battery cables are clean, tight and intact, the 12-pin multiconnector in the engine compartment is sometimes a point of electrical disruption. With the exception of the starter solenoid connections and some cylinder head temperature sensor(s), everything passes through that multiconnector. Since it is aging, and physically located within the engine compartment (below the voltage regulator, near the firewall), it is exposed to moisture, heat and vibration. The metal contacts inside the plastic connector shell can become corroded, loose, bent, etc. So it might be helpful to carefully separate the two halves and inspect the condition of the pins inside. Sometimes simply unplugging and reconnecting the two halves will clear the problem, as re-seating all of those connections may reestablish a previously marginal electrical contact. If you want to attempt any cleaning with a wire brush, chemical contact cleaner, etc. you should disconnect the battery ground terminal to avoid creating any undesired electrical shorts.

There should be TWO CONNECTIONS from each battery post. The heavy-gauge thick positive and negative cables serve only the starter motor. The positive cable connects directly to the starter solenoid to carry the heavy current needed by the starter motor. The thick negative cable bolts directly to the engine, near the alternator, to provide a ground return path for all of that current drawn by the starter motor. (The engine is suspended by three rubber engine mounts that provide vibration isolation, but also create electrical isolation from the car chassis. For this reason there are three braided ground straps around the perimeter of the engine that establish an engine ground between the engine sheet metal and the chassis — engine compartment perimeter frame. But the primary ground connection for the engine is that thick battery ground cable, which has the same current-carrying capacity that is provided by the thick positive cable).

All of the remaining electrical components throughout the Corvair are powered through the thin 10/12 gauge wire that is also attached to the positive battery terminal. It also has a "soul mate" on the battery negative terminal, which is bolted directly to the engine compartment chassis frame. Sometimes a previous owner will omit this connection, or will bolt the thick negative ground cable directly to the chassis, which starves the starter motor for adequate ground return to the battery. Both the chassis ground and the thick engine ground connections are essential.

Cleaning the battery posts and the inside of each battery terminal connector with a wire brush is important. I remember seeing a car in the gas station I worked in that was having electrical problems similar to yours. The battery cables on the battery terminal posts appeared to be in-place and tight, but while I was looking the owner attempted to crank the engine. When the solenoid engaged a wisp of smoke rose from one of the battery terminals. It turned out that there was dirt and a poor electrical connection between the cable connector and the battery post. Even though they appeared to be physically well-connected, they were not establishing a good ELECTRICAL connection. The heavy current draw from the starter solenoid caused an electrical arc between the post and the terminal, which created a thin carbon electrical isolation that blocked current flow. The smoke I had observed was generated as the high electrical current attempted to pass through the high resistance of the dirty battery post and its associated cable connector.

A battery cleaning tool similar to this should be used to clean the battery posts and the cable connectors, before reconnecting and tightening them. If the terminal connectors are in poor physical condition they should be replaced.

Left-click on the image to enlarge for better viewing...