Compatibility

[jimbrandberg]

I've never heard the LM flywheel has more of a propensity to hit EM bell housing lower bolts if the two are used together.
I will probably never use a LM crankshaft and flywheel with a EM bell housing again because I'm flush with LM Manual bell housings now. If it's true it's a good thing to know.
I do believe that one should not put washers under the bottom 4 bell housing bolts. I never do it but wonder if I could with a PG.
I found the secret to The Source's relocated crankshaft seal is simply a thicker gasket. I always use the thicker gasket except I did use a thin one when doing the EM bell housing shim thing.
I did not mean to imply that the LM crankshaft itself is shorter, it is just the seal surface.

So what you should have to put that LM PG engine in your EM Manual is a pilot bushing, LM stepped flywheel, LM bent finger pressure plate, LM flat release bearing and LM ball stud that the clutch for pivots on. Probably best to just find a LM bell housing.
The input shaft seal matches the shaft which matches the transmission. If you use a 64 seal with a 63 shaft you will have a big oil leak.
Your 63 clutch fork and pullrod are fine. Your 63 throttle rod is fine to either carburetor cross shaft. 63 or 64 air cleaners are fine. 66 uses an orifice in the PCV and 63 uses a PCV valve, either is fine. PCV is better than road draft tube.

In the rear you also need a '64 engine mount bracket or put washers under the 4 mounting studs to move the '63 bracket enough to get the fan belt on with the harmonic balancer pulley. The 63 and 64 rubber engine mounts have a different offset of the dangling stud. If you just move your 63 bracket a little you can probably get by with your 63 mount. In 64 they had a different cover in the back and a 3 piece retainer strip for the perimeter seal. The 64 only stuff is expensive so you can often bend the 63 stuff to fit.

For shrouding you can use either top shroud but the 66 has the belt guard. The side shrouds you need your 63 stuff, the bolt holes may be a little different but easy enough to modify. The front corner shrouds use the 66 because of where they meet the crankcase. The rear corner shrouds and ducts use your 63. You should use a folded fin oil cooler or 8 plate to align with the left rear duct. A '64 duct to use a 12 plate oil cooler is hard to come by. If your 66 engine has a 12 plate cooler now the top shroud and oil cooler cover will be different.

The lower shrouds and exhaust manifolds are close enough to use either one.

63 carburetors will work on a 66 but will not have the base vent or high speed enrichment.

Rebuilt harmonic balancers are expensive but a good thing to have.

Many people have done what you're proposing. The 110 Manual and Powerglide have the same 891 camshaft and 319 distributor.

And that's all I have to say about that. Sorry I tend to run on...

[Dennis66]

Thanks Jim, Good information. Nobody has mentioned the casting numbers yet. The 6256583 (60-63) has the cam indentation (number opposite starter side). The 3832176 is the late model (64-69). Just thought I'd kick this in for the curious. Dennis

[joelsplace]

I don't know those numbers by memory but I do know the Junkyard Primer has them wrong.

[Frank DuVal]

The lower shrouds and exhaust manifolds are close enough to use either one.

As long as you do not use the front bolts, the late has one and the late has two, or vice versa, not in garage right now.... But I have interchanged them too.

Joel is right, the Junkyard Primer has the late model casting numbers listed under the 60 to 63 belhousings, and does not have any part numbers for the 64 to 69 list.??? If it starts with a 6 it is early (60 to 63) and if starts with a 3 it is a late belhousing.

Any flywheel will hit the lower 4 belhousing bolts if one uses washers, it is much worse if it is a bolted 64 to 69 flywheel.

Here is my 66 Texas car I just opened to change the transaxle (old one crunches into 2nd). Note damage to two bolts and the shrapnel a magnet picked up.

So, no washers under the lower 4 bolts, period!

And normally I see flat washers only under the upper 5 bolts, here I see lockwashers under all 9. ? I'm going back with 5 flats and a little locktite (low strength). Doing one at a time to avoid disturbing gasket. I had not planned on any engine work at this time. Project creep!!!!

You can use all your 62 clutch parts with a late belhousing. It is best to use all LM parts, but you have all the early parts on hand. Yes, you will have to adjust the linkage to get full throw to push in the throwout bearing to release properly, but, you should adjust it anyway when reinstalling a manual drivetrain.

The engine did not sound like it had a small rod knock at idle or upon revving a little, did it? I ask because all riveted flywheels are suspect of loose rivets. [/color]

[66vairguy]

Good comment Frank. Yes there should be no washers on lower bolts, but even without washers there is a clearance problem with 60-63 bellhousing lower bolts with a 64-69 crankshaft.

More wear in the crankshaft thrust surface will aggravate the problem. One fellow with a 66 engine in his 63 car would hear a squeal every time he depressed the clutch pedal (pushes against the crankshaft) and found a lot of wear on the lower bolts were the flywheel rubbed on them. That was the source of the squeal was the flywheel rubbing on the lower bolts. He went to a 64-69 bellhousing, flywheel, and clutch setup. No more issues.