SOS FROM ITALY: questions

[alexbert]

I'm trying to separate the transaxle from engine. I'm a little bit worried about the transmission shaft.
Brad wrote

When you get the powertrain down, place the engine on some blocks, and prepare to separate the transaxle from the engine. There is a long input shaft between the clutch and the transmission (about 24 inches) and it is splined at both ends. Quite often, the larger spline stays embedded in the clutch disc assembly, and the smaller end pulls free of the transmission as you begin separating the heavy transaxle (supported by the hydraulic jack) from the engine. Carefully maintain the alignment between the two components to avoid any lateral pressure from being applied to the input shaft, which can damage throwout bearing shaft if the input shaft is allowed to lever against the side of the throwout bearing shaft. When some clearance opens up between the differential face and the clutch housing, you can probably reach in and pull the input shaft free of the clutch, and then finish moving the transaxle away from the engine.

Actually the shaft is embedded in the clutch disc assembly. I tried to pull it out but is too hard. Should I clamp it with a plier?
Or Can I carefully pull away the transaxle from the engine leaving the shaft in the disc assembly? (we are two people, so one can hold the shaft in the clutch ass.y while pulling away the transaxle).

I disassembled the first cyl head (right side). Barrel #5 came with the head. How can I separate it? where/how can I ... hammer???
Also barrel #1 is not coming away from crankcase. how can I pull it without damaging?
Any suggestion???
Many thanks for your valuable support!
Alex

[bbodie52]

If the transaxle is resting its weight on a floor jack, you should be able to simply pull it straight back, away from the engine, until the long input shaft clears the transaxle. Once the shaft pulls free from the transmission internally, it is just "floating" in the passageway through the differential. You will be installing a new oil seal in the throwout bearing shaft, so any minor damage that might occur to the rubber seal surface is not a concern. My warning primarily had to do wih protecting that long shaft from damage, and in particular protecting the cast, machined throwout bearing "snout" that protrudes a few inches from the differential from any serious lateral pressure that might occur if the heavy transaxle were to slip and fall from its support while part of the input shaft was still inside the differential. Such an accident might apply a lot of weight from the transaxle against the long "lever" of an input shaft. That kind of pressure might crack or fracture the "snout", and replacing it requires dismantling the differential.

With two people it is fairly easy to have one person focus on stabilizing the transaxle while the other pulls the floor jack straight away from the engine until the input shaft clears the differential. Then you can both set the transaxle on the floor. If the input shaft is still stuck in the clutch disc because of tension on the shaft, just dismantle the clutch assembly, or loosen the pressure plate bolts following instructions in shop manual. The shaft should simply pull free from the pilot bushing in the crankshaft and the splined clutch disc.

I've never had a problem with the cylinder barrels being stuck in a head or in the cases, so I have no suggestions except maybe tapping the barrel with a rubber mallet to try to dislodge it. Maybe others have actually had to deal with this problem and have a better suggestion. But I would try to avoid using a long screwdriver or something similar to pry against the aluminum head or case and the cooling fins on the cylinder barrel, since the cast fins can probably be broken easily.

[terribleted]

Concerning the stuck cylinder. Place head on floor valve side down cylinder up. Saturate area at cylinder head joining with penetrating fluids. Tap cylinder with hammer and wood block sideways from different sides. Repeat if necessary allowing time for penetrants to penetrate. Sooner or later it will come loose. Never had to break one getting it out of a head. I have broken cylinders that are frozen to pistons when the crank will not turn (small sledge hammer and a brick) :)