County98's Learn as I Go Thread
Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread
While all the painted was drying/flashing, I started stripping out the engine compartment. Not too bad, all in all, just messy. Getting the dry rotted weatherstrip from the channel was probably the messiest part. Still a lot of cleaning out to do, but got a good start on it.
- SyntheticBlnkerFluid
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread
I got all my tins painted, I need to do the engine compartment as well.
Sent from my iPhone using Corvair Forum mobile app
Sent from my iPhone using Corvair Forum mobile app
1968 Monza 140 4-Speed Posi
Rob
Chebanse, IL
Rob
Chebanse, IL
Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread
So, my forward/passenger side heater duct tin does not want to fit. Are these different from the early/YN motor to a LM 140? Can I just trim up the inside edge?
Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread
Trimmed up the duct shroud and realized I had a dumb moment and the 2 carb side shrouds weren't going to obviously work for the 140. Cut a couple reliefs in those as well.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Corvair Forum mobile app
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Corvair Forum mobile app
Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread
Started trying to assemble the tins and realized the hardware I took off old motor is a mess. Mismatched, some oversized, etc.
Is there a handy diagram on where each (seemingly random) size bolt from the factory goes?
This would be a lot easier if I had ever seen any of it before, lol.
Also put on the block off plate I got from Dave Motohead. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Corvair Forum mobile app
Is there a handy diagram on where each (seemingly random) size bolt from the factory goes?
This would be a lot easier if I had ever seen any of it before, lol.
Also put on the block off plate I got from Dave Motohead. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Corvair Forum mobile app
Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread
Finally had a break in my schedule and weather and was able to get the ZMOS blasting guy back out. Car setup was a PITA, but after it was all done, I'm happy with the blasting. $266 to do all 4 wheelwells and the engine compartment. Mainly, I'm lazy and didn't want to wire wheel the whole thing, but I also wanted to get a look at what was under the factory seam sealer and undercoat. All looks pretty good to me! Doesn't even look like the car was ever in a wreck, so that's a plus.
Before, asbestos undercoat. Tough stuff, but coming off in places.
Before, asbestos undercoat. Tough stuff, but coming off in places.
Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread
After.
Not an exact science, and I didn't drop out the full suspension, etc. We covered the hoses and stuff I didn't want hit in blasting tape and had him go for it. It will all get primer, seam sealer, and maybe undercoating in the wells.
Again, this isn't a pro rotisserie job, just me in my house shop on a budget for time and money.
Engine Compartment. Will get primer, seam sealer, and some satin black. Did have some little rust pocks in the battery tray, but I'm assuming that's fairly common.
Not an exact science, and I didn't drop out the full suspension, etc. We covered the hoses and stuff I didn't want hit in blasting tape and had him go for it. It will all get primer, seam sealer, and maybe undercoating in the wells.
Again, this isn't a pro rotisserie job, just me in my house shop on a budget for time and money.
Engine Compartment. Will get primer, seam sealer, and some satin black. Did have some little rust pocks in the battery tray, but I'm assuming that's fairly common.
Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread
Put the wheel wells and engine compartment in primer. To recap the blasting part a little, you don't have to get fancy, but have to coat the "white metal" with something in a couple days or so or it will start to surface rust pretty fast. Primer came out nice and I was pretty happy with it.
I taped off grease zerks, brake lines, etc., then just hit it all in primer. Shocks and coils had got some blast overspray, so just coated it all.
I taped off grease zerks, brake lines, etc., then just hit it all in primer. Shocks and coils had got some blast overspray, so just coated it all.
Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread
Okay, so new thing that I dislike doing immensely. Seam Sealer. Blech.
This thread isn't just about victories, but failures too. I am NO good with seam sealer. I thought it was going to be like bathtub caulk and figured I'd run a little bead and then with a latex glove dipped in water, just smooth it out. It's not, lol. It starts to tack up really fast and no matter what I tried it looks like a$$.
Oh well, I'll hit the seams with some more primer tomorrow and hopefully my hot mess won't be too noticeable.
At first I tried to tape off the seams and make it look all pro. Didn't work out as planned, so after that I just decided to save myself the time and make a mess.
This is what I used.
So any input on whether I should undercoat or not? I'm thinking of just painting at this point, only a fun car, no commuting, snow, or purposeful rain.
This thread isn't just about victories, but failures too. I am NO good with seam sealer. I thought it was going to be like bathtub caulk and figured I'd run a little bead and then with a latex glove dipped in water, just smooth it out. It's not, lol. It starts to tack up really fast and no matter what I tried it looks like a$$.
Oh well, I'll hit the seams with some more primer tomorrow and hopefully my hot mess won't be too noticeable.
At first I tried to tape off the seams and make it look all pro. Didn't work out as planned, so after that I just decided to save myself the time and make a mess.
This is what I used.
So any input on whether I should undercoat or not? I'm thinking of just painting at this point, only a fun car, no commuting, snow, or purposeful rain.
- Basicjello
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread
Loved reading through your thread. I just picked up a Corsa Convertible. You provided tons of good info!
- viewmaster
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- Location: Fresno, CA
Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread
Looking good, Shayne. I just added some seam sealer, here and there, after some had cracked and fallen out. On top of it, I just sprayed some more undercoating to match.
-m
-m
'65 '500' Sedan 110 PG
'65 Monza Sedan "Turbo'd" 110 SU conversion 4sp Manual'
'65 Monza Sedan "Turbo'd" 110 SU conversion 4sp Manual'
- bbodie52
- Corvair of the Month
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread
I checked the manufacturer's website for 3M Seam Sealer. Apparently there is a wide range of seam sealer products and applications. Perhaps a different variation of this material would suit your application better and improve the outcome...
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/ ... 911&rt=rud
Left-Click each image to enlarge for better viewing... I have attached a copy of the 3M catalog.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/ ... 911&rt=rud
Left-Click each image to enlarge for better viewing... I have attached a copy of the 3M catalog.
- Attachments
-
- 3M AAD Body Repair Catalog_Rev02-19_LoRes.pdf
- 3M AAD Body Repair Catalog
- (3.97 MiB) Downloaded 37 times
Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible
Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread
Man, can't believe how much time gets away from between chances to tinker on the car. Guess that's the downside about leaving for months at a time. Hope everyone is doing well, and can't wait for this damn COVID drama to be over with.
Brad, thanks for the info for sure. I just get impatient and get whatever is handy and on the shelf. Not anymore though, Amazon seems to be the new normal, so I'll be able to make better choices, lol.
Seam sealer came out pretty good after it was sprayed over, did the wheel wells and engine compartment in satin black paint. Good enough for the Tomato.
Brad, thanks for the info for sure. I just get impatient and get whatever is handy and on the shelf. Not anymore though, Amazon seems to be the new normal, so I'll be able to make better choices, lol.
Seam sealer came out pretty good after it was sprayed over, did the wheel wells and engine compartment in satin black paint. Good enough for the Tomato.
Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread
Latest project was to clean up the heater while the motor STILL out...
Picked up a Harbor Freight Blast Cabinet, and then changed out all the goodies except for the cabinet itself, more to come on that in another post. Still learning about all that, but got to play with it a bit while doing the heater.
Starting point wasn't heavily corroded or rusted through, but pretty dingy, surface rusted, and frozen up. All the hoses were shot, of course, but the PO came up with a different way to block off the fresh air inlet! One vintage mason jar cap.
I'll be putting this classic beauty on ebay later, but pretty stiff reserve for such a classic piece of Americana.
Picked up a Harbor Freight Blast Cabinet, and then changed out all the goodies except for the cabinet itself, more to come on that in another post. Still learning about all that, but got to play with it a bit while doing the heater.
Starting point wasn't heavily corroded or rusted through, but pretty dingy, surface rusted, and frozen up. All the hoses were shot, of course, but the PO came up with a different way to block off the fresh air inlet! One vintage mason jar cap.
I'll be putting this classic beauty on ebay later, but pretty stiff reserve for such a classic piece of Americana.
Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread
Blasted and painted:
My rubber flappers were still usable, but the small shaft was corroded and I couldn't get it out without wrecking the flapper. I just taped it off and worked around it.
Couple notes on re-assembly. There didn't seem to be any gaskets at all except one attaching motor to housing. The body fits pretty tightly as is, but I used just a bit of copper gasket rtv on the main housing sides to make it a bit more airtight. Probably no reason after thinking it through, but I had already done it.
Also, I got a new hi-volume motor and fan from Clark's. The motor and fan seem a great fit, but the only tiny thing is motor shaft is a little different and they don't include a bushing. The fan gets fastened with a set screw, but I added a bushing just to make myself feel better.
My rubber flappers were still usable, but the small shaft was corroded and I couldn't get it out without wrecking the flapper. I just taped it off and worked around it.
Couple notes on re-assembly. There didn't seem to be any gaskets at all except one attaching motor to housing. The body fits pretty tightly as is, but I used just a bit of copper gasket rtv on the main housing sides to make it a bit more airtight. Probably no reason after thinking it through, but I had already done it.
Also, I got a new hi-volume motor and fan from Clark's. The motor and fan seem a great fit, but the only tiny thing is motor shaft is a little different and they don't include a bushing. The fan gets fastened with a set screw, but I added a bushing just to make myself feel better.
Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread
So, this is the part where it gets a little redneck-y. I can say that because I live in OK, and know all about it.
The critical thing seems to be 4 tiny teflon bushings that go on the ends of the flapper pivots at the housing body. 3 of mine were good, one was missing completely. After scouring the shop for ideas, I came up with 3 options. Either grind down and shape a new one from a tube bushing, adapt a stereo wiring grommet, or use a rubber grommet.
I went with the rubber grommet route. Just the easiest snap in option. Will it hold up for 20 years? Very doubtful. But not my daily driver, and I think it will be fine for awhile.
Next up on the country ingenuity list was I needed a new motor housing foam seal, but when I looked, I was completely out of sheet gaskets. Another shop search and I found the leftover vinyl flooring from my wife's she shed. This stuff isn't like the old school linoleum from the 70's, it's extra thick, made to be waterproof, and had just the right amount of squishy-ness. New gasket waiting to be born.
All assembled. I'm not going to use a fresh air hose, I'm going to use DaveMotoHead's idea and pick up a 3" inlet conical filter to put on there. As long as the fan is one, it will pull mix air. Bonus that with no fan on, the forced air heat will probably go OUT the filter, so if I don't want heat, I don't have to have it.
The critical thing seems to be 4 tiny teflon bushings that go on the ends of the flapper pivots at the housing body. 3 of mine were good, one was missing completely. After scouring the shop for ideas, I came up with 3 options. Either grind down and shape a new one from a tube bushing, adapt a stereo wiring grommet, or use a rubber grommet.
I went with the rubber grommet route. Just the easiest snap in option. Will it hold up for 20 years? Very doubtful. But not my daily driver, and I think it will be fine for awhile.
Next up on the country ingenuity list was I needed a new motor housing foam seal, but when I looked, I was completely out of sheet gaskets. Another shop search and I found the leftover vinyl flooring from my wife's she shed. This stuff isn't like the old school linoleum from the 70's, it's extra thick, made to be waterproof, and had just the right amount of squishy-ness. New gasket waiting to be born.
All assembled. I'm not going to use a fresh air hose, I'm going to use DaveMotoHead's idea and pick up a 3" inlet conical filter to put on there. As long as the fan is one, it will pull mix air. Bonus that with no fan on, the forced air heat will probably go OUT the filter, so if I don't want heat, I don't have to have it.