'66 Monza Coupe Project

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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Mon May 26, 2014 10:16 am

Ok, took it on a quick drive down the road. Apparently I was in 3rd because I had to force it over to get in 1st and 2nd gear. Im thinking maybe the linkages need adjusting. Fortunately I live on a back road so I didn't get in people's way when I stall it. Im getting the hang of it though.

Questions:
1) steering is a little sloppy, is this normal or will the box need replaced?
2) what RPMs are normal at 60 mph? I only ask because in 4th gear I go 1500 RPM at 45 mph which seems high compared to what Im used to driving.
3) I removed the stock air cleaner in favor of separate elements. I know others have done the same and am curious on what to do with the carb equalizer thing. Should I put a T at the center and run hoses to each side, or is there a different route I should take?
4) As you know, I installed a 12SI alternator. I know it is charging because the battery voltage stays between 13-14 volts when running but the alt light never goes off completely. Part if the problem may lie with the LED replacement bulbs, but has anyone else run into this problem before?
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cad-kid
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by cad-kid » Tue May 27, 2014 4:51 am

How difficult is it to get in reverse? Inspect the shifter linkage bushings. I just installed bronze bushings from the hardware store - what an amazing difference :burnout:

For the steering, check all the joints that the steering box connects to. Have someone gently rock the wheel back and forth while you look at each joint - a little slop in a joint will lead to a lot of play in the wheel.

RPM - sounds about right - 4th is a highway gear and these engines love to run on the high side -

The balance tube is at the base of the two carbs - the other tube is for crankcase ventilation. Some run a tiny filter on that others plum it to one of the air filter bases.
Jeremy (cad-kid)
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bbodie52
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by bbodie52 » Tue May 27, 2014 5:46 am

91blaze wrote:...steering is a little sloppy, is this normal or will the box need replaced?
:think: The play in the steering wheel on your car could be a steering box issue, but a likely culprit is often a worn-out pitman arm bushing. I have seen examples where the rubber in the bushing is completely missing — leaving only an empty shell with a bolt through it and a lot of slop in the steering. Of course the rubber bushing can also just show some decay, but it should be checked out. I've included some pictures below to help you.

Pitman Arm Bushing Info :link: http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.ph ... 186,518425

:link: http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... N&page=156
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If you do need to get into the steering box, this reference may be useful...
Rebuilding a Corvair Steering Box.pdf
Rebuilding a Corvair Steering Box
(570.04 KiB) Downloaded 30 times
I have attached a copy of the applicable section of the 1965 Corvair Chassis Shop Manual...
Attachments
1965 Corvair Chassis Shop Manual - SECTION 9 - STEERING.pdf
1965 Corvair Chassis Shop Manual - SECTION 9 - STEERING
(4.31 MiB) Downloaded 14 times
Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible

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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Tue May 27, 2014 10:03 am

Cad-kid, reverse and first are the only difficult gears, so I'm going to install new bushings later on and see if that helps.
bbodie, thanks for the tip about the arm bushing, will definitely check that.

I ended up driving it to town today, about a 15 mile round trip with several stops along the way. It ran fine for the first half but soon started running rough. By the time I got home, it didn't want to idle. I'm hoping it's just a simple fix, I'll update when I figure it out.
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Tue May 27, 2014 1:38 pm

It won't run without touching the throttle, but runs fine off idle. Seems like more carb problems, great. When I cover the driver side carb, it speeds up, but when I cover the pass side carb, it doesn't react at all. I took both carbs off and took them apart, couldn't find anything clogged up. Oddly enough, the pass side carb was missing the power valve so I'm ordering a new one. If it still acts the same when I get done going through it, I will just take it to someone who knows what they're doing.

FYI, both sides get hot after driving, so nothing wrong there.
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Fri May 30, 2014 6:49 pm

Managed to get a few things done. Replaced my turn signal cam as it was broke in half and causing problems. Put the carbs back together and it runs OK, but still a rough idle. Been experimenting with the GEN/FAN light, and found that it works a little better with normal lights due to the fact that the LEDs only work with + voltage. I also found that the alternator is putting out more than the signal wire is giving, which makes the light stay on a bit, so need to figure that out. Decided to mount the 2 4" speakers up in the stock position with a few brackets. Going to take it on a drive again tomorrow so we will see how that goes.

Radio and front speakers:
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LEDs in instrument panel:
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Halos:
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Headlight beams, not too bad:
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Sat May 31, 2014 9:59 am

I think I'm going to have to live with the rough idle until I can afford to get new carbs. I drove it about 20 miles round trip and it seemed to run well. At first, I noticed a "rattling" under acceleration, which I figured was pinging. I backed the timing a bit and it runs and drives a bit better. I've noticed that it only idles badly when cold, and gets better after driving a bit. Won't be many updates as I will be driving it more, but I will try to do more work to it.
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bbodie52
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by bbodie52 » Sat May 31, 2014 10:45 am

:think: I have attached a copy of the DELCO ROCHESTER - Models H, HV Carburetor Service Manual. The last five pages cover a number of settings that could impact the proper operation of the choke system. The manual also provides a detailed explanation of the choke system. The cold engine rough idle you mentioned could be related to a faulty choke system adjustment. You might want to look over the attached guide and check the applicable choke system settings on your carburetors.
DELCO ROCHESTER - Models H, HV Carburetor Service Manual.pdf
DELCO ROCHESTER - Models H, HV Carburetor Service Manual
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Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible

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cad-kid
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by cad-kid » Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:32 am

Looking good :tu:

To get a more polished look - toss a piece of black fabric between the speakers and grill.
Jeremy (cad-kid)
Kronenwetter, WI (Central Wisconsin)
CORSA Member#031129
SOLD 9-2016 65 Monza 4spd/140
My 65 Monza thread
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Wed Jun 11, 2014 3:03 pm

Not much to update here. Work has kept me from doing much, but I have been driving it regularly and it seems to be doing well. I still have not taken it on the interstate but I will need to test it out soon because next weekend I will be going on an hour long trip down the interstate and I want to know how it will run. I have been slowly fixing things such as the glovebox, lights, and a windshield leak. I have managed to get it idling smooth around 800 RPM, only trouble with running is the occasional hiccup on heavy acceleration. It seems to have created a leak from the pushrod tubes, which I already have the o-rings for. This weekend I hope to get the o-rings, pitman arm bushing, and shift tube bushings replaced.
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Sat Jun 14, 2014 4:23 pm

Having a crappy weekend. Yesterday I took the car down the interstate and the temp light came on as I was exiting about 10 minutes down the road. Pulled over to let it cool and everything seemed fine, no smoke and ran fine. On the way back, the bolt holding the accelerator linkage pivot pulled through the metal. Seems that the nut under the rear seat had rust around it, but I have it fixed for now.

Today I made a summer/winter plate and a plate for the side of the oil cooler to see if it helps with overheating. While out driving, my brakes went out on me. I noticed that it seemed like the brakes were sticking, which I found to be true when I got home and the rear driver's side brake was smoking. The brake pedal is soft and goes down further with constant pressure. When released, the left rear brake still stays engaged until I open the bleeder screw. I pulled of the brake cover and found the the wheel cylinder is leaking, so I need to replace it. I want to be sure not to break anything so I will be taking my time with this so it may be a while before I get this done. I will be replacing the brake shoes as well soon.
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cad-kid
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by cad-kid » Sun Jun 15, 2014 7:48 am

With your temp light - are you running the original temp sender or have you replaced it since you got the car? As these senders age they seem to come on at a cooler temp than required.
Jeremy (cad-kid)
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My 65 Monza thread
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Sun Jun 15, 2014 9:05 am

cad-kid wrote:With your temp light - are you running the original temp sender or have you replaced it since you got the car? As these senders age they seem to come on at a cooler temp than required.
It's new
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bbodie52
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by bbodie52 » Sun Jun 15, 2014 6:01 pm

:think: The engine temperature and oil pressure warning light switches are both on the same circuit. When either switch closes it grounds the circuit and illuminates the warning light. A short to ground (as with a pinched wire shorting to the engine sheet metal) will also illuminate the light, and such a short to ground may be intermittent. A defective sending unit can also provide a false alarm.

Your engine may or may not be overheating. I would check the wiring harness where it runs through the engine shroud on the right side and make sure that it is not pinched or that the insulation has not been cut in a way that could permit a short to ground (false alarm). You also need to determine if the alarm is caused by the oil pressure switch (next to the alternator) or by the temperature switch in the right cylinder head.
1965-1969 Corvair Engine Compartment Wiring Diagram.jpg
1965-1969 Corvair Engine Compartment Wiring Diagram
I have been around Corvairs since 1961, and none of my Corvairs have EVER overheated and triggered an overheat warning light. As long as the fan belt is intact it would be unusual for a Corvair engine to overheat (unless you have a critter nest under the top shroud that is blocking the flow of cooling air). The GEN/FAN warning light is usually more meaningful, to warn you if you throw a fan belt so you don't continue driving with an inactive cooling system. The oil pressure warning light is also critically important if you develop a leak have zero oil pressure. But the temperature sending unit is unlikely to ever go active. If it does it is usually a false alarm.

:chevy:
Brad Bodie
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Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible

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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Tue Jun 17, 2014 5:17 pm

I finally finished replacing the wheel cylinder. It was a pain, but I got it done. Worst part was just getting the old one off. I have driven it around for 20 minutes or so and the brakes seem to be fine. They are still uneven when under heavy braking, but I can live with it for now. I have been having a problem with "dieseling" on shutdown, so I did a little research. I went to the gas station and filled up with premium (had been using regular) and poured some chevron in the tank. We will see how it works out.

I also picked up an infrared temperature gun, and checked the head temp after my drive. The heads were at 300* on each side, so I will be taking it on the interstate in the next few days to check the temp and make sure it's not overheating. I will update in a few days.
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Mon Jun 23, 2014 7:12 pm

So I got some good and bad news...

Good: Took it out this weekend and ended up putting about 250 miles on it. Took the freeway coming back, about a 1 hour drive. About 30 minutes of 70 mph driving without problem, then went to 75-80 for about 10 minutes and the overheat light came on. Had to drive another 2-3 miles before I could pull over and check. It was running fine and the temp gun read ~450 at both heads. My understanding is that this light is supposed to go on at 500-550, not at 450. Made it home without problem, but now for the bad:

On my way home from work today I noticed a vibration at speed, it just started from nowhere. I was only 3 miles from home so I figured it would be fine. Pulling onto my road, the left rear wheel let go. Fortunately I was moving slow enough to stop, but the damage was done. Looked like Two of the nuts backed off and the rest pulled out of the threads. I managed to get the wheel back on the two good studs and drove it back to figure out what needs fixed. I'm not exactly sure why this happened, this is the wheel that I had to fix the brakes on. While getting new studs at the store, I found out that I had been using M12 nuts rather than the correct 7/16. This may have been a factor, along with improper torquing of the nuts. Now onto the damage: the wheel went under the rear wheel well and destroyed the fiberglass, and knocked loose the metal part, making the battery not sit in the tray, and the lid not open fully. The lid support contacts the hinge and stops it just short of locking. I took some pictures and will be figuring out what to do tomorrow. This should be fun to fix...

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