'66 Monza Coupe Project

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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Post by 91blaze »

That's probably the problem, I hope. I had to set the timing without a light to get it running, I'm going to borrow a timing light tomorrow and check.
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Post by 91blaze »

Got more done. Checked the timing, it was just a little too advanced but it starts and runs fine now with a little adjusting. The timing shows almost 20 but it doesn't act that high, I'm assuming something is off on the timing marks. I have also replaced the weatherstripping under the drip rail because the old stuff was cracked and falling off. Now just waiting on gaskets to stop the oil leak and finish up the brake lines. Then the car will be roadworthy.
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County98
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Post by County98 »

Good job on the Monza. I'm following your thread to see what pops up on yours. I'm about 30 steps behind you and am trying to get a driver by fall. Don't leave anything out!

-Cheers!
Cheers!

-Shayne
Lawton, OK

'66 Corsa work in progress
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bbodie52
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Post by bbodie52 »

91blaze wrote:...Checked the timing, it was just a little too advanced but it starts and runs fine now with a little adjusting. The timing shows almost 20 but it doesn't act that high, I'm assuming something is off on the timing marks...
:chevy: The shop manual indicates that the correct ignition timing setting for the 110 hp engine is 12°-16° BTDC.

Your comments about possible timing mark inaccuracies caught my attention. Your 110 hp 1966 Monza has a harmonic balancer. Harmonic balancers are three-piece assemblies with a cast inner mount attached to the crankshaft, an outer steel ring, and the two are a press fit with a rubber insert that holds the two metal components together. As the harmonic balancer ages the press fit between the two metal components can begin to loosen, and the outer ring can slip. This could mean that the outer ring would no longer be in proper alignment with the center part, which is held in place on the crankshaft with a Woodruff key. With a solid crankshaft pulley the Woodruff key ensures proper positioning of the timing mark on the outer edge of the pulley. But with a faulty harmonic balancer the outer mark can slip, which can mean your timing mark may no longer be accurate.

The Corvair shop manual indicates that there should be a registration mark on the face of the harmonic balancer that indicates a proper relationship between the inner hub and outer ring. If the mark is there but the two parts are not in alignment, the harmonic balancer has slipped and is failing and must be replaced.

Image

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You can read more about harmonic balancer slippage at the following Corvair Center link...

:link: http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.ph ... 740,494964

Image

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If your harmonic balancer is slipping and proves to be faulty, it must be replaced because it would eventually fail completely and possibly damage your engine in the process. Do not be tempted to replace it with a cheaper standard pulley. It is a critical component that helps prevent damage and cracks from forming on the 164 CI engine crankshaft. Also, a used harmonic balancer replacement may not be a wise choice, unless it has been remanufactured properly. Age causes deterioration in the rubber component of the harmonic balancer, and buying a used item — even if the registration marks are OK — means that you have no way of knowing how much life is left in the used part.

:link: http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... ge=OTTO-23
Image

If you determine that you must replace the harmonic balancer, the following video will help to guide you through the procedure...

Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Post by 91blaze »

I guess I can add this to my list of things to do when I pull the engine.
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Post by 91blaze »

Oil leak turned out to be a shot valve cover gasket. Also started removing the gas tank to get to the brake lines so I can drive it finally. There seems to be a stuck lifter, only makes noise when cold but goes away after it warms up. I know this is common, but will it turn into a bigger problem or am I fine for now?
Last edited by 91blaze on Mon May 19, 2014 8:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
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MBlaster1
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Post by MBlaster1 »

I have a 66 with 140HP it is always has a little ping when cold for about 30 seconds then goes away when lifters pump up. NORMAL
Don Howard
Lake City Fl.

66 140 Convertible
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Post by 91blaze »

Got an update and question:

Update: Dropped the gas tank and routed the brake lines to the master cylinder. Figured out I didn't need to drop the tank, but I was able to get under and check things out. For the time being, I kept the front brakes hooked up the the original junction and ran the rear brake line through hole to the master cylinder. It's not pretty, but it works until I can get something different figured out. I couldn't find a 7/16-24 plug in any hardware or automotive store so I had to order it. Once that gets here, I should be able to bleed the system and get it on the road.

Question: I got under the car and found that the steering joint was wrapped in plastic. Is there any reason why someone would do this, is there anything I should check for before I remove it? I have a picture:

Image

The brake line setup for now:
Image
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Post by 91blaze »

My plans for this car is split in two stages. First is getting it driving and on the road for the summer, then doing the rest of the major bodywork, engine, and everything else when fall comes around.

Current to-do list (summer):
- Wiring (still having turn signal problems)
- Interior lighting
- Audio
- Console
- Brakes (nearly complete)
- Exhaust
- Misc. engine work
- Lowering

After summer:
- Interior (Seats, headliner, etc.)
- Heater
- Bodywork
- Powdercoating and paint
- Engine rebuild
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cad-kid
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Post by cad-kid »

Thanks for all the pics, making good progress!
Jeremy (cad-kid)
Kronenwetter, WI (Central Wisconsin)
SOLD 9-2016 65 Monza 4spd/140
My 65 Monza thread
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County98
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Post by County98 »

I have no idea about the plastic. I still have my old tank out waiting for the Rust Bullet to cure. Decided to do that area while I had it out and to test out that stuff.

I can certainly take any pics you need of my steering if you need them though.

Good progress on your ride! I like seeing your pics since I'm working the same things and just got my brake line kit from Clark's the other day.
Cheers!

-Shayne
Lawton, OK

'66 Corsa work in progress
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Post by 91blaze »

Finally got the brakes done and bled. The rears bled pretty easily but the left front brake wouldn't. I drove it around the yard a bit and it seems to stop well. Figured out the problem with the turn signals. With the rears as LEDs and front normal bulbs, it works fine, but if I put LEDs in the front they don't. I'm just going to leave it with normal bulbs in the front until I figure out the problem. Also, I tried using an LED flasher, but it acted the same. I still don't want to drive it too much until I get a new temp switch and clean up the leaked oil so it stops smoking. Hopefully more to come in the next few days.
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Post by 91blaze »

The front brakes finally bled completely. Not sure what was wrong, maybe a blockage but it stops on a dime now. I removed the driver's side lower shrouds and found a lot of oil from the leaking valve cover. It's not smoking as much now, but there's still some oil on the exhaust. I will update when the temp switch is done.
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Post by 91blaze »

Temp switch installed and wired up. Wasn't sure how hot the wires would get so I used wire loom on them just in case. I had problems removing the pass. side lower shrouds and ended up breaking a bolt. Since I don't have a torch, I sprayed the bolts with penetrating oil, then warmed up the engine. Tomorrow I will be working on speakers and radio. I installed a radio from Retrosound: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151151233318?ss ... 1439.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I didn't like the way that the radio installs because it points the screen downward. Right now it is installed like the factory radio, so I need to make some sort of bezel to go between the radio and faceplate, which will be done later. My plan is to mount 5" round speakers up front and 4" round speakers in the rear. I will be using the amp and subwoofers I pulled out of my Blazer before I sold it. They are 4 400 watt 10" subs and a 2000 watt amp. I used this setup for several years in my Blazer so I know it will work well. They will be mounted in the rear sill.

One last thing, a question for anyone who can help. This is my first manual and I'm teaching myself how to drive it. I have figured most everything on my own, but something still confuses me. While driving around the house I can go about 20 mph. When I'm going a steady speed, I cannot let the clutch out completely or the engine goes down to about 200 rpm, which is strange for me. I figured the first gear would be fairly short and would be able to go 20 mph without touching the clutch. Is something wrong here or is this normal? I have to let the clutch slip just a little to go this speed without stalling out.
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bbodie52
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Post by bbodie52 »

:think: Are you sure you are in 1st gear? The Corvair shift linkage can be a little vague for an inexperienced "shifter". You could have accidentally shifted to 3rd gear instead of 1st, which might explain the need to continually slip the clutch, since 3rd gear would drag the engine speed down somewhat at 15-20 mph. :chevy:
Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Post by 91blaze »

I should be in first gear if the gears are like this:

R__1___3
_____N__
___2___4

Is there something odd about the shifter that would make it difficult to get in 1st gear? I can feel the shifter engage in all 4 gears, so I don't think that's the problem. I'm going to take it out on the road today to test out the other gears.
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