'66 Monza Coupe Project

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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Thu Aug 07, 2014 9:02 am

Got a quick update, not a lot going on lately. Managed to clear up a lot of the wiring problems, ran 4 gauge power wire to the front of the car from the battery, and replaced the old crummy engine compartment connector. The new connectors will allow me to add circuits later on. I bypassed the old junction by the battery and made a new one on the firewall and another behind the dash to replace the connection between all the power wires. These junctions will allow me to tap power for relays and such later on. I have also started work on the interior, bought all the vinyl and padding to do the dash pad, visors, door panels, and seats. I will be attempting to shape the new seat foam to make it a little more comfortable and fitting. I have already put together the dash pad to test out a few things since this is my first time doing upholstery.

One more thing: picked up a '66 Corsa with a 140 and 4-speed and hope to build the engine for my car. I have a quick question regarding this swap:

I have read that the 140 comes with a larger clutch and flywheel than the 110. When I swap the engine, will there be any complications swapping the clutch and flywheel from the 140? Or would it be better to keep the 110 clutch and flywheel? I may have more questions later on but so far so good. I do have some quick pictures of the wiring, dash pad, and door panels cut from 1/8" hardboard:

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bbodie52
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by bbodie52 » Thu Aug 07, 2014 10:53 am

91blaze wrote:...I have read that the 140 comes with a larger clutch and flywheel than the 110. When I swap the engine, will there be any complications swapping the clutch and flywheel from the 140? Or would it be better to keep the 110 clutch and flywheel?...
There is no difference in the clutch bell housing or mounting point on the crankshaft, or in the throw-out bearing shaft or configuration of the differential face. Early pressure plates use a flat finger diaphragm spring and late (1964-1969) clutches use a bent finger diaphragm spring (with a matching throw out bearing). Some low horsepower engines used an 8" clutch disc, but most used a 9" disc. 1960-1963 used a flat style flywheel, while 1964-1969 used a recessed style flywheel. As long as you don't mix early (1960-1963) with late style (1964-1969) clutch components, everything will be fine. I.E. The 140 hp clutch assembly will mount properly with a 110 hp (1964-1969) or a 140 hp (1965-1969) engine.

The variations in clutch pressure plates, discs, throw out bearings, and flywheels are described and illustrated below, using specifications from the 1965 GM Heritage Center document and from the Clark's Corvair Parts online catalog...
1965 Corvair Clutch Specifications.jpg
1965 Corvair Clutch Specifications
:link: http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... w_page=110
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:link: http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... w_page=111
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Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible

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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Mon Aug 11, 2014 8:07 pm

So here goes the biggest part of my budget... the engine. Like I said, I managed to pull a 140 out of a Corsa, it seems to be in good condition and turns over. My plans are very optimistic right now and hopefully will make the engine much more efficient, powerful, and reliable. Here's a list of future modifications, which I will be asking many questions about.

- Heads worked over, ported and deep seats
- bored .030 over, pistons undecided
- EFI, which I can hopefully do a lot of myself and save money
- hydraulic roller lifters and cam, I know this may be a long-shot but I'm hoping
- slant tube exhaust
- new seals all around (obviously)
- new pushrods, connecting rods, rockers, etc
- New bearings
- check crank and replace if necessary
- general cleanup, de-flashing, etc

I know a lot of work and money will be thrown into this engine but it will be worth it. I will be getting work done by LeVair and asking for advice from him and all of you. If anybody can shed some light on the availability of the hydraulic roller lifters and cam that would be greatly appreciated. This will be a "modern" build but nothing extreme, I want this to be a lighter, stronger, more reliable engine when all is done. I do have moderate access to a machine shop so I may be able to make some things. I will continue to update with my plans and progress as I do more research, any suggestions/help is welcome.

As for the car, it has been driving great until today. I pulled into the driveway and it died. Seems the driver side carb is stopped up, the gas stream is very weak when the throttle is blipped as compared to the other carb. I will be disassembling it tomorrow, I do have some ideas as to what could be wrong. Yet another reason why I want to go EFI.
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cad-kid
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by cad-kid » Tue Aug 12, 2014 4:51 am

91blaze wrote:Ran 4 gauge power wire to the front of the car from the battery, and replaced the old crummy engine compartment connector. The new connectors will allow me to add circuits later on. I bypassed the old junction by the battery and made a new one on the firewall and another behind the dash to replace the connection between all the power wires. These junctions will allow me to tap power for relays and such later on.


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Nice work on the wiring :tu: But there is a bit more work you should do on the power wire leading to the front - Where the red wire lays across the vertical panel - put a piece of hose on the panel to prevent rub through. And please :pray: install a grommet where the red wire goes down through the large hole. I would hate to see your hard work go up in flames.
Jeremy (cad-kid)
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SOLD 9-2016 65 Monza 4spd/140
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bbodie52
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by bbodie52 » Tue Aug 12, 2014 6:02 am

:goodpost: Good advice! Any point where a battery cable's insulation has the potential of being cut or worn-thru by a sharp metal edge needs to be protected. And if an electrical short to ground ever does occur, it is also a good idea to install a heavy ANL type fuse to protect the wiring in the event of a short circuit. The fuse should be physically located near to the voltage source, so that all of the power cable that is routed through the vehicle will be protected by the fused link at the beginning.

In this first diagram, you have a simple system. You simply need to safely get the B+ (12v) line from the battery to the amplifier. One of the most important things to understand here is that wire segment A is not protected in any way. If it were to be shorted to ground, either the wire or the battery would be damaged and in either case there would likely be an electrical fire. This is why the wire must be short. 12-18" is the maximum recommended. The fuse protects the remaining length of wire. This generally extends from the front of the vehicle to the back of the vehicle. The fuse must be rated to protect the wire that's being used. The wire 'gauge' is generally the deciding factor when it comes to selecting a fuse. More information on the selection of the proper fuse will be covered on the 'Wire' page of the site. If the amp has no fuse on-board, you will need an external fuse. If you have only one amp, the fuse at the battery can be used to protect the wire and the amplifier. The fuse would need to be whatever was recommended by the manufacturer for the amplifier and would also need to be rated at or less than the suggested maximum current for the wire that you're using.
Automotive Fuse Diagram.jpg


Many types of fuse blocks, power connectors and terminals, cable protectors, etc. are available to permit safe, protected power distribution to be configured in any vehicle.

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Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible

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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Tue Aug 12, 2014 11:10 am

Don't worry guys, I have been working on those problems. The main power wire will be routed through a new grommet where the wires come through the firewall. I'm also looking into a Bussmann 150 amp circuit breaker to put near the battery. The circuit breaker will allow me to disconnect the system with the push of a button and reset the breaker just as easily if something happens.

Also thinking about getting a LED amperage/voltage display.
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Wed Aug 13, 2014 11:48 am

Quick question for you guys... on the topic of piston rings, what is the best? You all can see my plans in a previous post and this will be a daily driver. I couldn't find much but I read that moly rings are more durable but break in slower than iron. I've also read that it would be beneficial to use moly on the top rings and iron or chrome as lower rings. I'm trying to get a complete list of parts and work together and this is one of the parts holding me up.
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Sat Aug 16, 2014 10:15 am

Ok, been doing more and more research to figure out what needs to be done. Also been slowly tearing down the engine to figure what needs fixed or replaced. Here's the most up-to-date list of the engine build:

- Forged pistons +.030
- Balanced rods
- Moly rings
- New valves, deep seats, bronze guides
- OTTO valve covers and oil pan
- Harmonic balancer (if needed)
- EFI + DIS from Clark's
- Hydraulic roller cam and lifters + new pushrods
- Bearings
- Slant tube exhaust and headers
- Head work
- Still not decided on how to do intake manifold

As of right now this is the most complete list, may add more as I tear down the engine. I have a feeling that the head studs may need replaced as they are rusted solid. Went driving today through a lot of rain... found some new leaks. Still messing with the carbs and timing but it's running fine for now. Also doing more work on the electrical system, added hazard flashers and working on headlight relays. More to come soon.

Engine after removed and put on stand:

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After a little bit of dis-assembly:

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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Mon Aug 18, 2014 12:34 pm

Got my 100 amp circuit breaker installed in place of the junction on the firewall. Cleaned up the wiring under dash and finished the relays for headlights and hazards. I used a push/pull switch for the hazards and put it below the ignition switch (see pic). I'm thinking about removing the ashtray and putting a aux port, usb, and outlet there instead (there will be no smoking in my car!). While I had the instrument panel out I went ahead and put the re-done dash cover on. Only problem area was where I cut the vinyl a little close so it doesn't stay down right.

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cad-kid
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by cad-kid » Mon Aug 18, 2014 2:19 pm

91blaze wrote:Got my 100 amp circuit breaker installed in place of the junction on the firewall. Cleaned up the wiring under dash and finished the relays for headlights and hazards. I used a push/pull switch for the hazards and put it below the ignition switch (see pic). I'm thinking about removing the ashtray and putting a aux port, usb, and outlet there instead (there will be no smoking in my car!).
Looks good :tu:

One mod with the USB and such is to keep the ash tray housing so when closed it looks normal and then you can then open it up to reveal the ports.
Jeremy (cad-kid)
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CORSA Member#031129
SOLD 9-2016 65 Monza 4spd/140
My 65 Monza thread
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Mon Aug 18, 2014 4:49 pm

cad-kid wrote:
91blaze wrote:Got my 100 amp circuit breaker installed in place of the junction on the firewall. Cleaned up the wiring under dash and finished the relays for headlights and hazards. I used a push/pull switch for the hazards and put it below the ignition switch (see pic). I'm thinking about removing the ashtray and putting a aux port, usb, and outlet there instead (there will be no smoking in my car!).
Looks good :tu:

One mod with the USB and such is to keep the ash tray housing so when closed it looks normal and then you can then open it up to reveal the ports.
That's just what I was thinking of doing, just finding the best way to go about it.
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Wed Aug 20, 2014 12:49 pm

Quick update: got the brakes figured out and fixed the carburetor issue. My FR brake shoe was stuck on and took about an hour of using penetrating fluid and beating on the drum to finally get it off. Not sure what was causing that side to pull harder than the rest, but now everything brakes evenly. Stops on a dime now :cool:

As for the carbs, I was fiddling with the problem one and found that the throttle shaft was a little loose where the throttle linkages connect to the shaft itself. I pulled it off and replaced it with one from the 140. It runs and idles well now, hopefully nothing else goes wrong. Also been working on the 140, got the head nuts off one side so for, have to let it soak to remove the head because it's stuck pretty bad. Managed to keep the studs from turning or breaking, so that's a plus. One of the nuts got rounded of so I used a slightly smaller metric size and pounded it on which did the trick. I have talked to Ray from American Pi about their hydraulic roller cam and am figuring out the best grind to use. Will update when more gets done.
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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Thu Aug 21, 2014 11:20 am

Seems I just can't catch a break :banghead: The car died on me today, still have fuel so I figure no spark. Replaced the coil since it was easy, but nothing. Only other thing would be the Ignitor system going bad, I will check grounds and everything first but everything points to the module going out, which apparently isn't all that uncommon. I may end up going with a Crane system if this turns out to be the problem.

Another problem is with the engine dis-assembly. The heads won't budge and have already broken a fin on two cylinders despite my best efforts. I spent several hours just using penetrating oil, screwdrivers, crowbars, hammers, etc. with no luck. I have thoroughly sprayed the studs and head with penetrating oil and left it with the head facing the ground so the oil will get where it needs to. I have two of the nuts lightly screwed on so the head won't just fall off.

I have also decided to go ahead and pull the engine to replace the clutch. It has gotten to a point where it's difficult to drive without the clutch slipping. I will be using the clutch disc from the 140 if it's not too worn and put a new one in when the engine is complete.
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bbodie52
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by bbodie52 » Thu Aug 21, 2014 12:32 pm

:think: I never had that much trouble unseating the cylinder heads. The main problem was always getting the upper row of head nuts off, since they are soft, rusty, and hard to get at under the intake manifold. Double check to ensure all upper head nuts and all rocker studs have been removed. Instead of prying on the cylinder barrels, perhaps you can rig some steel bar stock to press against the cases and the cylinder head main body, and use some form of bottle jack to press against the bar stock. Or perhaps tapping on the bar stock while securing it at the bottom will break it loose. :dontknow:

Sorry to hear about your ignition problems. Do you have a Pertronix Ignitor or Ignitor II? In any case they come with a 30 month warranty.

:link: http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx

SUPPORT...

:link: http://www.pertronix.com/support/

PerTronix, Inc.
440 East Arrow Highway
San Dimas, CA 91773
Phone: (909) 547-9058
Fax: (909) 599-6424

I've attached some Pertronix troubleshooting and instructions sheets with warranty information...
Attachments
Pertronix Ignitor 12v neg Instructions.pdf
Pertronix Ignitor 12v neg Instructions
(73.1 KiB) Downloaded 17 times
Pertronix 91162A Ignitor II Instructions.pdf
Pertronix 91162A Ignitor II Instructions
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Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible

Scott V
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by Scott V » Thu Aug 21, 2014 9:27 pm

bbodie52 wrote:I never had that much trouble unseating the cylinder heads.
looking @ the pics - the engine has a bunch of corrosion on the heads & cylinders. probably left outside in a wet/damp area. the corrosion between the cyls & head makes the cyls stuck real good to the heads.

-Scott V.

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91blaze
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Re: '66 Monza Coupe Project

Unread post by 91blaze » Sat Aug 23, 2014 5:47 pm

Pulled the engine out of my car to check out the clutch and may have figured out why it was slipping so much...

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From what I can tell it seems like it's the input shaft seal, I've already checked out Dave's video so I know what needs to be done. I figure since the seal won't be here until the end of the week I might as well do some clean-up of the engine. Mainly just degreasing and painting as well as cleaning out the fins. I will be buying new heater hoses and seals while everything is easily accessible. Also going to fix up some of the wiring and little bits here and there. Didn't get a chance to mess with the 140 today since it started raining.

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