'62 Monza convertible "Ralphie"

[66vairguy]

Good advice. BTW -- the paint on the cylinders should be thin --- like the old radiator paint, so it allows good heat dissipation. GM never painted the cylinders, yes they get a light rust on them, but it is not an issue unless the car sits for very long periods in a humid climate.

Make sure you install the lower cylinder baffles BEFORE the push rod tubes. Seems like almost everyone makes that mistake once. Without the baffles air to the heads is reduced, not to mention the cylinders getting hotter on one side.

BTW --- the fan bearing height is critical. Years ago a fellow experimented and if it is too high or low by 1/8" or more the fan belt will either flip or come off. If you don't have the spec. I'll find it and post for you. Let me know. NEVER force the bearing into the cover. You heat the cover and the bearing shaft will almost fall out. So why does the bearing stay tight in the cover when the engine heats up? Because both the cover and bearing shaft heat up at the same time. To change the bearing you use a propane torch and heat the cover around the shaft hole for a minute (or less) and before the bearing shaft heats up it comes loose. A little tap and it falls out. Same to install. Once the cover and bearing shaft are the same temperature, that bearing shaft WILL NOT move, unless someone already broached the cover forcing the bearing in or out.

[Dennis66]

Yes, When I rebuilt the Greenbrier engine a few years ago, there were the lower tins. Head bolts, push rod tubes, all had to come back off . Won't happen this time. On the blower bearing, I had measured before the cleaning and greasing. The 1962 hub is 1/8 higher that the 1966 hub. I figure I will make a shim to go in there rather than screw around with trying to change the height of the shaft. The hub / bearing did not move when I greased it. Checked that.
Other thing was I purposely omitted the fuel pump pushrod. I'm planning a Clark's dummy fuel block and electric pump.
Final thing. I pulled my "turkey roaster" down from the attic. I have two, the modified '62 that a bit cobbled up, and a straight, but rusty 66 one. I gave it a couple of muriatic acid baths which did a good number on the rust. After wash down and drying, I put a coat of rusty metal primer on the inside followed by a good coat of black rust reformer. The outside still needs a good sanding, then it gets the Rustoleum and Duplicolor 1635, which seems to be the choice for tin painitng.

[Dennis66]

Today's progress. I often don't get anything done after a day at work, but I've been trying to do whatever I can. Today was: paint and install lower cylinder baffles. This doesn't seem like much, but it's important. Why? These are easily forgotten. I advise to put them on as soon as you get the cylinders installed. They go on a lot easier before the heads are installed (don't forget tube spacers to hold cylinders in place against the block). The baffles go in a WHOLE LOT easier before you install the pushrod tubes (ask me how I know - I forgot them on my last engine 9 years ago. When you have to loosen head bolts, remove the guide plates and pushrods, it kinds of sets doing this first in your mind).
Beyond the baffles, I double checked al the rod bolt torques (good). I installed the oil cooler adapter block. Dug through parts in my attic and the car trunk verifying I had a few things and getting parts for the next step. Then "The Challenge". Removing the carb studs from the heads. These suckers were nasty, and they were in there good. It is obvious from the marks that previous mechanics had used a pipe wrench and vice grips trying to remove them. I was worried. I started by double nutting them (note the one that still has the nuts). I was pleased that the inside (short) ones came right out. The outer ones were ugly. I started by cross drilling a 1/16 hole through the outside of the carb pad and down to the stud. I dribbled ATF into the hole. I tapped a little (CAREFULLY) against the end of the stud (with the nuts just above the threads to avoid damaging the threads. I used a brass hammer. Then I heated the sides of the carb pad around the stud - not with a propane torch, with my oxy acetylene torch. After heating, I applied a little pressure back and forth until I got just a little movement. I dribbled a little more ATF in and applied more heat and worked it a little more. Light and barely moving each direction until I got a little more movement. Finally got a good 1/4 turn and lubed and rocked it until it moved more freely and began to turn. Got them both out. if you're not careful doing this you can easily break the stud, or the stud can pull the aluminum threads right out of the head. The holes will be cleaned with a tap, I'll probably use the studs from my spare 110 heads (bare heads), and will install with never seize.

Carb studs

[66vairguy]

That sounds about normal. No fun. I've had good luck starting with PB Blaster penetrating oil and heat first since. It requires patience since a number of heat/lube cycles are required. I learned that lesson the Chevy L98 engines -- the EGR valve bolts ALWAYS seize up in the aluminum manifold. Worst one took me three days to get the bolts loose without destroying the manifold.

BTW - I'll suggest using lock and flat washers to hold the carburetors down via the studs. The old nuts tend to come loose and folks over tighten them and warp the carburetors (cant' be fixed) !!!! I've used the flat and lock washers for years and use minimum torque, never had a carburetor nut come loose ---- just me.

[Project65]

Hi Dennis. That’s interesting how you removed the studs. Could you post a picture of where you drilled?

[Dennis66]

Glad to.

The hole

The hole was placed as close to the center of the 5/16 stud hole as I could get. I drilled until I hit steel (the shavings change). Again, the purpose was to introduce lubricant to the threads. The goal was to not have the steel vs. Aluminum gall or pull the aluminum threads out. From my experience, ATF seems to wick and run out as good as anything. One of my favorite penetrants is a mixture of 50/50 ATF and either lacquer thinner or brake cleaner. A guy on another forum named it "Dennis' cocktail". I don't remember exactly where I first heard about it, but when I was working on a lot of heavy equipment, I used to keep a small container of it. There was always something frozen up, or broken off. The other important part as "66" pointed out is repeated heat cycles. For me, I was lucky and this only took two. Sometimes it takes a lot of patience and just walking away from it and coming back tomorrow. sometimes, you still loose. For that, we have Helicoils (or other brands).
Another trick I have successfully used many times (usually with a 3/8 or larger bolt) is to drill down the center of the broken bolt, I then take a hacksaw blade, a pair of tin snips, and i cut the blade down to about 4'' and one end small enough to fit in the hole I drilled (usually about 3/16 for a 3/8'' bolt). I then use the cut down blade, by hand, and cut 3 even slots in the bolt from the center out (most bolts aren't bottomed in the hole). After making my cuts, I'd use a small punch to drive the three pieces towards the center. This would break what remained of the threads on the bolt and I could work the pieces out with a pick. I'd run a tap down in there to clean the remaining threads in the hole, and be good to go. It was a lot of work, but it saved a lot more work, usually would have meant having to pull a head. Done this on several Cummins engines and a GM 2.8 V6 that was still in the truck (angle drill). Yeah, sometimes being a mechanic requires the finesse of a Dentist. Dennis

[Project65]

That’s a great photo and explanation. Thanks. I’m loving your rebuild project. Great detail and description. I’m expecting to be into one of these someday.

[Dennis66]

"The weekend project". Once the studs were removed, I could start "piddling" with the heads. I started with a good pressure wash. After drying, I decided to try a little pressure test on the valves and seats. Some were concerned because when I pulled the heads you could see where the valve seats had been peened (some call it staking). This used to be a fairly common practice on aluminum heads or aluminum flathead blocks (usually small gas engines). I've done it a few times myself and had good results. Some seemed concerned about it being done on a Corvair. While the BEST cure is the improved deep valve seats, there didn't seem ot be any leaking around the seats. There was some bubbling coming from the valves themselves. Bear in mind that this engine sat for about 17 years and whatever valves had been open were open and exposed to the air.
I decided to give hand lapping the valves a try. I pulled the valves and all are in excellent condition. Apparently, the seat peening was part of a head overhaul as there are shiny new brass valve guides, and the valves have obviously been replaced as I found the name of the company printed on a couple of stems. I made a trip to Autozone for a valve spring compressor and a suction cup lapping tool (I already had a smaller one, but it's too small. The spring compressor was less than user friendly, and the suction cup didn't work too well. I ended up making a "head jig" to hold the valves closed, and provide a bracket for my home made "lever spring compressor". The first head was done with a combination of the AZ compressor, and my jig. I also modified the AZ compressor by welding a large washer to the forks so it would center on the valve better. I used the jig and my lever compressor to completely disassemble and reassemble the second head. It worked flawlessly. For lapping the valves, I ended up supporting the heads with the valves facing up, and using a piece of 3/8 ID hose and a small clamp on the valve stems for spinning the valves. Worked pretty good.

Head showing valve guides

Head showing springs reinstalled

[Dennis66]

Changed things up a bit this afternoon. As I started making progress on the engine, I realized I don't want to put it in a nasty looking engine compartment. I had already pressure washed it, but there was a lot of room for improvement. One big mess was that the entire battery box had been coated with about 1/4 inch of silicone - kind of like frosting a cake. I had already removed about a gallon bucket full of this stuff, but there is still more. Last week I ordered a gallon of ermine white for the car, so I got back to work on the engine compartment today. I removed the entire engine harness (this required all 4 tail lights to be removed too), regulator, body plugs, and the side engine seal retainers, which were covered by a thick coat of undercoating. The good news is the battery box and undercarriage are well preserved because of the undercoat and silicone.

Battery box

[66vairguy]

Your lucky the battery tray is good. Often is not, even on solid Western cars. I always install a plastic tray under batteries now.

The other thing is a missing battery hold down. Just recently I helped a club member with wiring and noticed the battery hold down was missing. After I showed him how the engine lid prop folds down next to the battery, and a rocking battery can hit it and cause a short and fire, he bought and installed a battery hold down.

[Dennis66]

I'll have to post a picture of the hold down. I'm thinking it is an aftermarket. it is narrow, like I remember the batteries in the EM being, but I think the cross piece is plastic, and I think I remember the originals being rubber coated metal. Maybe picture tonite.
EDIT / UPDATE. Here's the hold down picture. Definitely not OEM. I also gave the engine compartment another cleaning. First a gasoline spray (stale lawnmower gas from an old spray bottle), then a shot of Gunk, and a spraydown with Purple power. A little cleaner. Then a scrubdown with comet cleaner and another quick pressure washing. Finally getting there. Dennis

battery hold down

Much cleaner

[66vairguy]

Looks good! Beware of power washing since the overlapping welded panel seams (laminated) will hold water for a LONG time. In aerospace this was a headache after cleaning with a water solvent. We used vacuum and heat ovens to get all the moisture out.

Out West in the summer a dry week in the sun usually takes care of the moisture issue.

[Dennis66]

While my paint arrived, much of the weekend wasn't suitable for painting. I also had other projects and commitments going on. To continue progress, I decided to finish painting the blower housing, which was already starting to rust again. I also cleaned up the finned oil pan and painted it. The car had obviously bottomed out a few times and some of the fins had flattened edges, so I ground everything back to shape and painted it.
Another project involved adapting the left air exit shroud to fit my 12 plate cooler. This involved sliding the left cylinder head on, installing the L/R shroud plate, the oil cooler. After this, I drilled out the spot welds on the baffle and removed the cooler shroud part. A trial fit showed me how much I had to remove. It took about 6 fittings before I finally had the parts where I wanted them. Got them tacked, fit one last time, and welded up. Next project will be fabricating a top cooler cover using the stock cover and corners I trimmed from the shroud. Plenty to do.

Baffle door housing

Cooler and cover

[66vairguy]

I can't tell from your picture, but did you install the end caps on the 12 plate cooler (used on Corvairs equipped with A/C)??

Nice work. I recently ran across an EM with a 140HP engine. It had the folded fine cooler (which is claimed to be as good as the twelve plate at cooling, but plugs up with dirt easier). The owner got talked into installing the newer 12 plate cooler, BUT the lower shroud wasn't revised so a third of the 12 plate is blocked off!!!! I told him to either go back to the folded fin, or remove the lower shroud and modify it (yeah I was the bearer of bad news).

[Dennis66]

The end plates are laying on the floor in the picture. I didn't fit them yet because I was more worried with getting the fit right. I still need to add fillers between the head and the vertical duct (under the cooler). After I get the top cover fabbed and the bottom all done, everything gets cleaned and painted pretty. I didn't even know about the end plates when I had Corvairs before. I honestly can't remember if th e12 plate I had back then had the end plates or not. (I only had one 12 plate cooler that I had bought the whole car for - 10.00. I put that cooler on my 66 500 that had a "put together" Spyder engine. It ended up being a worn out 150 less the turbo and oil cooler with a bunch of 95HP parts to scrap together a running engine).This cooler that came with a basket case '66 110 engine I bought for parts luckily had all the cooler parts. Ironically, it didn't have the correct blower or the very hard to find extended cooler cover. I tried to buy one from a facebook seller (actually he had two), but he couldn't find them. There was recently another one offered for 50.00 plus shipping, but I didn't want to spend that much.

[Dennis66]

So today's project (at least the CORVAIR project) was converting a stock oil cooler cover into the extended cover for my 12 plate cooler. I had already trimmed the ends off the blower housing. I started today by fitting the cover and seeing how much longer it needed to be (7/8"). I cut it lengthwise and welded in a 7/8 filler strip. A little shaping and it fit pretty good. That was the easy part. Next, I trimmed, notched, fit, and welded the cut off corner pieces from the original blower housing. Then I cut sections from an extra blower to extend the corners back and overlap the shortened cooler part of the blower housing. I think I ended up with 8, maybe 9 pieces by time I had everything made into one piece.

Completed cover

cover in place