'62 Monza convertible "Ralphie"

[Dennis66]

Yes, the project came with shop manuals and a supplement as well as a Clark's catalogue. There were also original owner's manuals and some original ads as this was the seller's M.O. for collecting cars (he was going to re-do the car, but had health issues shortly after taking delivery of the car). On the brakes, each component is being inspected and evaluated for "replacement as necessary". As I mentioned, so far, the rear cylinders look serviceable, and I have ordered kits for them. I have a very old brake cylinder hone kit that originally belonged to my father, and it's seen a fair share of brake and clutch cylinders between him and myself. I also have a tubing bender set, but if I find any questionable lines, I will probably order pre-bent lines. I recently did all the lines on a Silverado at work. I've also done plenty of brake plumbing and rebuild on Land Rovers (Girling - YUCK!). Even dropping the tank, a Corvair can't be as bad as that was. I'll probably get the tunnel cover off this coming weekend and see how things "inside" look.
Now here's a question: because someone mentioned converting an EM to a dual cylinder system (I don't plan that), I recall that on the later Corvairs the primary brakes (NOT shoes) were on the rear, and the smaller brakes were on the front axles. Was there any modification when converting single systems? Or maybe the reservoirs are the same sizes for dual system drum brakes (it's been a while, lots of disc brake work more recently, air brake work, even wedge brake work, but a LONG time since a dual brake system with all drums). Dennis

[66vairguy]

The Corvair dual MC was standard on the 67 models and used on other Chevrolet models with standard brakes that year. Nothing special about the bore and no allowance for front vs. rear. The 67 wheel cylinders were the same as used in 65 and 66 with the single MC.

The 65-69 Corvair brakes were the same as used on the 65-67 Chevelles, but yes the larger front brakes from the Chevelle were placed on the rear of the Corvair and the smaller rear Chevelle brakes were placed on the front of the Corvair. That's why all the new aftermarket "A" body brake shoes (front and rear) have slots for the emergency brake so they work on either the Chevelle or Corvair.

You can spend hours doing the math to determine if the LM larger rear brakes made sense, or was it just a way to use Chevelle parts. It's easier to go read all the old car magazine 1965 Corvair road tests. None of them noted an issue with unbalanced braking. In fact the 1965 Corvair brakes were well regarded. The only thing preventing shorter stopping distance were the tires. Most cars back then had small tires with marginal grip.

The EM models were noted for marginal braking, but no worse than most early 60's cars. That's why there was a sintered iron lining option for the EM Corvair for those who wanted to go racing (also a different MC). Brake design was slow to keep up with the bigger engines until the late 1960's when disc brakes were offered.

[Dennis66]

File this under "What your wife doesn't need to know" It's actually not THAT bad. After the parts washer, a Gunk bath, 2 days soaking in vinegar, then a baking soda bath and a comet scrub down, followed by rinsing with fresh water, I decided to warm them up before a coat of hi temperature paint. The grill got scrubbed down before using it again anyway. I had a buddy years ago who was painting, and then baking his wheel cylinders in his wife's oven.
I also decided to have a look at the fronts tonight (well, ONE side anyway). The front still has the drums on it. Were the drums originally riveted to the hubs? There seem to be rivets. Tomorrow, I'll pull the hub / drum and see. I can tell for now that the front will need hoses, the lines will be getting a thorough inspection too. More to follow. Dennis

EDIT: So I found out that GM did indeed rivet the front drums to the hubs. Something about brake noise.

[Dennis66]

Well, some progress has been made. Got the backing plates all painted, got the wheel cylinders all rebuilt. I was worried because someone else with an EM mentioned "guide plates" (these are eye shaped washers that go under the top springs on the anchor pin). I went to a boneyard and scarfed a set of guide plates off an S-10. I had to open the hole up just a little for them to fit on the Corvair anchor pin. When I went to put everything together, the springs wouldn't fit properly with the guide plates in, so I ditched the guide plates. Apparently, the 1962 - without self adjusters - don't use guide plates. When I opened the front brakes up, they didn't have them either. I checked the front brakes, and everything there looks okay (other than hoses are cracked - they will be replaced). I did clean and repack the front wheel bearings. I got the transaxle all cleaned up and painted. Hoping to get it put in tomorrow. Yes, I know people say to put the drivetrain in as one unit. I/m putting the tranny back in first. I have had engines out of and back in EM Corvairs before. I had to think about it, but almost every Corvair I ever owned had the engine out of it at one time or another. The exceptions were about two or three automatic Corvairs that I only had or drove for a short time. I also converted a few automatic Corvairs to manual transmissions. Again, no pictures, but work progresses. Dennis

[Dennis66]

First project was straightening out the front engine compartment bulkhead. It was pretty bent out of shape from the engine being forced in there and hung by the nylon cargo strap. Transaxle is in. Axles all hooked up - right axle had the bolt broken off in the center of the inner end. Got it drilled and extracted. Clutch cross shaft was a booger. I probably didn't put it in the right way, had the body bracket mounted first.

[62wagon]

I've just rejoined the forum and looked over your posts. Looks like a big project, but the car looks worth it. I would have probably just put a whole "new" powertrain with a manual trans, only because I happen to have one in the garage. I am resurrecting a '62 Monza Wagon with an automatic trans and thought I might put the 3-speed in, but the automatic is in great shape so I backed off the idea.
I wish you the best and know it must be a mission with a passion.

[Dennis66]

Thanks. I'm good with building up an engine. I haven't gotten into this engine yet, but between having a NOS crank (145 CID), the 260 cam (which will need a new gear), all the bearings, gaskets, and seals, I think I'm off to a good start. My only worry would be if the block is damaged at the front bearing web. Even if that's the case (no pun intended), I've seen reasonably priced 145 CID blocks for sale.
I haven't mentioned it yet, but I just picked up a basket case engine Saturday. It's a 164 CID, and most of it is junk, but I wanted it for a lot of parts I would be buying individually. I plan to upgrade to an aluminum fan (fan, pulley, top cover and bearing), an alternator (no alternator, but alternator mount casting was there) and there were some sheet metal parts I needed that would have been costly. It also came with a 12 plate oil cooler - jury is still out as to whether I use that or the stock finned unit I already had.
I like the wagons. The scarcity appeals to me as most folks have no idea tat they ever made them. A wagon, and the EM convertible were the only two body styles I never owned. I came very close to getting a wagon (50.00 back in the day). There are, or were two wagons in my area recently. One is a driver with some rusty spots, and one was for sale as a project at a too steep price. I just remembered that there was a third one very recently but it was so rusty I felt was more of a parts car. It was an estate sale that also had a 66 auto / AC car. They want stupid money for each one - both sold. Dennis

[Dennis66]

Slow progress continues. I got the tunnel cover removed to inspect brake lines inside tunnel (they're in great condition). I suspect that the rear lines were replaced at some time, they're super clean. Doing the tunnel cover today, with a cordless drill and 5/16 bit sure beats the heck out of how I did one last time in the early '70s. Got wheels back on and car back on the ground. Dennis

[Dennis66]

Finally, back on the Corvair project. I had several other "priority jobs" around the house that required my attention. Then a bout with bursitis that laid me up for 3 weeks. Today, it's Corvair time. I finally got started on opening up the engine. As suspected, the crank is broken on the #5 throw. The good news is everything inside looks pretty clean, and so far, I didn't see any damage to the block.

Nice and clean inside

With a nice clean break

[66vairguy]

The cranks usually break at #5. This issue was more common when folks tried to use solid flywheels to replace the Corvair 3 piece flywheel. As Corvair engineer Benzinger confirmed, the unique Corvair flywheel was needed on manual transmission cars to dampen crankshaft flexing (like a torque converter flex plate). BTW Porsche found this issue AFTER the Corvair six was designed with their prototype six and fixed it by going to a main bearing between EACH cylinder piston/rod. Chevy might have done the same, except the initial engine design was for a PG only drivetrain!! Can you imagine a Corvair without a stick shift?

After Ford and Chrysler announced their compacts would be cheaper with a 3 speed manual transmission (automatic extra), GM management told the Chevy engineers, at the last minute, to add a manual transmission so the PG would be an extra cost option. Then is when the Chevy engineers found the "harmonic problem" with only four main bearings (too late to revise the engine design). Credit to engineer Benzinger and crew for a clever, but unique, flywheel to fix the problem.

I'd suggest making sure the flywheel is good. Around 80,000 miles the old cold rivets tend to get loose. Most rebuilt flywheels are now bolted, but a fellow up in Ventura, CA does both bolted and his "hot riveted" fix. I've never heard of an issue with a properly bolted flywheel, no experience with "hot riveted". Clark's also sells bolted flywheels, but I don't know who does them for Clark's.

[Dennis66]

Yeah. Flywheel has already been done. I found out about the broken crank when I went to put the flywheel on. "That isn't supposed to move like that". It was when I realized why it came with an NOS GM crank and bearings.
My second Corvair, a 66 500 coupe, had the loose flywheel rivets thing. At idle it would "clunk - clunk - clunk". The car didn't last long, engine had been scrapped together, body was fairly roached. Then came the 25.00 Corsa convertible body - and the 10.00 engine, which ran great. Dennis

[Project65]

Great to see you back on the rebuild Dennis! Must be nice to have an essentially rust free project. I’m hoping to see lots of photos of the engine tear down. Good luck!

[Dennis66]

Thanks. Yeah, because I haven't really seen a "detailed" engine project on here, I plan to do that. Don't know how much I'll get this week as I have Spring Break company coming down, but there will be pictures when I get back on it. Dennis

[66vairguy]

Thanks. Yeah, because I haven't really seen a "detailed" engine project on here, I plan to do that. Don't know how much I'll get this week as I have Spring Break company coming down, but there will be pictures when I get back on it. Dennis

Engine rebuilding runs from just replacing the bearings and rings, to new pistons, cylinders, cam, heads rebuilt, rods rebuilt, and balancing the rotating assembly.

Not sure if your new crank has the gear on it. If not, DON'T forget the paper seal when you install the gear and it takes a BIG press. Do a cold press, DO NOT CHILL THE CRANK OR HEAT THE GEAR! Both should be at room temperature.

Over the years a few Corvair engines have grenaded due to a rod cap coming loose. Usually wipes out the crank and block!! I always have ARP rod bolts and nuts installed when the rods are rebuilt, and you must use the ARP special torque lube and their specification. Don't get carried away with balancing the rods. I bought one engine where some of the rod caps were ground down so far as to be junk. I found what other have said, you need quite a few sets of rods to "cherry pick" the ones that are close in weight. Chevy just balanced (or matched weight) of opposing rods and pistons.

One thing you CAN'T fix is worn out cam journals. So install the cam with plastigauge and bolt the block to torque FIRST. No point in assembling a block with worn out cam journals. Also get a set of "V" blocks to check the cam for run-out. I've had TWO new cams that were bent. One due to shipping and one after the machine shop installed the cam gear.

Going to the magnesium fan and alternator is a good idea. Keep in mind the 1964 engines had the one-year only magnesium fan as it used the old 60-63 small bearing. The 1965-69 models have a bigger magnesium fan bearing.

Have fun - take your time.

[Dennis66]

Crank already has the gear on it. On the cam, I plan to check it for possible out of round as the broken crank took out a few aluminum cam gear teeth. Also, because of the broken crank, I plan to plasti gauge the cam and crank bearings before final assembly. i don't think this engine had too much time (since rebuild) on it when the crank broke. Teardown and inspection will include checking ring gaps and cylinder wear. Definitely not planning rod balancing. I'm up in the air about rod bolts and nuts. I haven't had a problem with that yet. On the magnesium fan, I already have the top cover, baffle plate, fan and pulley from my "parts engine''. I was just informed yesterday, that the parts engine was a 1966 110. The engine had been sitting in a corrosive environment for some time, so the crank and block from it were junk. The fan cleaned up well, and the top cover and bearing are good and spin with no noise or roughness. Dennis

[Dennis66]

Progress report time. Got a few things done in the last two weeks. First thing was a temporary cosmetic issue. The front of the car had several chips in the paint. Two problems here: It made it look like crap (white car, dark / rusty chip scratches), the second was thet while the car is still living under a car cover, the chips were starting to pick up some rust. I "borrowed" my wife's garage for a couple of weeks (she has the attached garage, I have the detached garage, which is occupied by my motorcycle, the Coot ATV, and other "stuff". Eventually, the Coot will be leaving, and there will be room for Ralphie in the detached garage). While garaged, I took a Dremel and cleaned up the chipped areas. I treated them with some rust arrester, sanded and filled the low spots with glazing compound, and touched it up with white rattle can paint (eventually, the whole car will be painted. The original Ermine white was yellowed, and at some point over 15 years ago, the car got a "respray". They didn't do the jambs, and the paint job, while temporarily passable, is showing it's age. We also had company coming down for Spring Break, and a "dog and pony show" was on the agenda. After the touch up, I thoroughly cleaned and waxed the rest of the car for it's remaining time under the cover. No pictures of this, you've all seen shin cars before.
Back to the engine. Today, I got back to the engine. I removed the valve covers, removed the rocker arms and pushrods (kept all in order). I dod notice that on the odd side (1-3-5), the inner valve springs for #1 exhaust and #3 intake were broken. I forgot that Corvairs had outer and inner valve springs. I have spare springs from the parts engine I bought, when I get to that place, I'll measure and replace the broken springs. Between the performance cam, the broken crank, and now broken valve springs, I'm starting to think the previous owner might have run this kind of hard.
I stopped after removing the rockers. I'm itching to pull the heads, but I want to bring my torque wrench back home from work and check torque on the head bolts before I pull them. I'll start at 20, see if it clicks, move up to 25, etc. I'm pleased that all the threads so far have been undamaged, and also with how clean the insides of the engine are. Dennis