Chrome trim-windshield

[plrgpr]

How do you remove it? I don’t want to force it and damage it, it’s in good condition!

[terribleted]

what year car are you working on?

On a late model you use a special tool made for removing reveal moldings like these. It slide down the face of the glass and hooks on the metal clips allowing you to pull them toward the glass a little releasing the molding from the clip. something like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes- ... 2OEALw_wcB

On an early model for the most part you need remove the glass and rubber weatherstrip and trim as a unit and then remove the stainless trim from the weatherstrip.

[plrgpr]

Thanks Ted. I may have a similar tool. If not, I’ll pick one up and get to work!

[terribleted]

Thanks Ted. I may have a similar tool. If not, I’ll pick one up and get to work!

Just be careful to pry only on the clips. Prying the tip of the hook on the tool against the glass can break the windshield.

[plrgpr]

Uh oh.......now you’re scaring me I’ll tread softly! After washing the car recently, I discovered my new carpet was damp on the drivers side. Took the kick panel off and pulled back the carpet while hosing the lower windshield area and discovered a leak

[66vairguy]

Uh oh.......now you’re scaring me I’ll tread softly! After washing the car recently, I discovered my new carpet was damp on the drivers side. Took the kick panel off and pulled back the carpet while hosing the lower windshield area and discovered a leak

Well you've got two choices here. Pull the trim and put some sealer on the leaking area and keep water away from that area (sponge bath). For a permanent fix that will last you have to pull the windshield out, repair the rusted areas, prime with a 2 part epoxy primer, then paint, install new caulk rope sealer and install the windshield. Yes a lot of work - I've done it more than once on GM "glue in glass" cars from the 60's. I'd recommend using the newer plastic trim clips instead of the old metal clips.

Most folks don't have the time, ability, or money to do it right. They do a patch and paint over the issue.

[plrgpr]

I’ll probably pay Safelight to pull and reinstall the windshield after I repair the rust????

[bbodie52]

The attached sections from the 1966 Fisher Body Service Manual may be helpful.

The entire manual is too large in Adobe Reader file size to upload to the Corvair Forum. if you would like to download the entire manual, it can be downloaded for free using the following link...

Corvair Tech Pages Index

http://1969corvair.com/techpages/Corvai ... Index.html



The links below will provide you with a list of useful websites that are Corvair-related. Some of the links will lead you to an extensive technical library that will allow you to download shop manuals and other technical references in Adobe Reader format at no cost. There is also a link that will help you to locate nearby CORSA (Corvair Society of America) club chapters. You will also find a list of essential Corvair parts suppliers. Clark's Corvair Parts in Shelburne Falls, MA is the biggest and oldest Corvair supplier in the world. You will find a link that can provide you with a series of videos that amount to a tour of the Clark's Corvair Parts facilities. I think you will be amazed at the quality of the reproduction components they offer — particularly the interior carpeting and re-upholstery items. Parts suppliers such as this truly make our Corvair hobby possible.

Common and Useful Corvair Websites:

viewtopic.php?f=225&t=6007

Dave Motohead How to DIY YouTube Video Library:
https://www.youtube.com/user/davemotohead1/videos

[66vairguy]

I’ll probably pay Safelight to pull and reinstall the windshield after I repair the rust????

Hmmm - to do the job correctly you have to pull the windshield BEFORE repairing the frame. Most glass shops are NOT equipped to do body work. A body shop that does old cars can remove the windshield, fix the frame and paint it, and install a new windshield, or the original if it's good.

I've read some good reports on Safelite, but it appears they are franchises. In S. Calif. I called three Safelite shops and was told "We don't work on a car that old." So much for Safelite. You may have better luck. Beware most windshield places just goop up all the corroded areas so they don't leak - fine for a year or so.

[plrgpr]

Yeah, I meant that I would have Safelight pull the windshield (I would be afraid I would wind up breaking it) and I would repair the rust then call Safelight back to reinstall the windshield. I’ve a feeling that there is not much damage as there is currently absolutely no external sign of rust. Other than myself, I would only trust a reputable body shop to repair the frame!

[terribleted]

Yeah, I meant that I would have Safelight pull the windshield (I would be afraid I would wind up breaking it) and I would repair the rust then call Safelight back to reinstall the windshield. I’ve a feeling that there is not much damage as there is currently absolutely no external sign of rust. Other than myself, I would only trust a reputable body shop to repair the frame!

I would suggest that unless your current windshield is already new that you should just replace it with a new one after repairs. They are not very expensive. I bought one last year for $175 through local glass man. $225 installed. If you have much rust you will need to move the glass in and out of the opening a number of times while doing repairs so scratches are likely. If any welding is done the glass MUST be protected from weld sparks as they will pit the glass. No better time to get a nice fresh windshield in place with no haze from age.

[66vairguy]

I agree with TTed. A good test is to look through the windshield in the late afternoon facing the sun. If your windshield is clear, then fine. Most aren't and a new windshield is so much nicer when driving toward the sun in the afternoon.

The other issue many face is getting the windshield at the right height so the trim fits back on. I use the 3M windshield bead and install it in the frame with the wax paper on the trim so I can test fit the windshield using suction cups - best for two folks to do this. Once everything fits nice you pull off the wax paper form the adheasive bead and CAREFULL install the windshield. Once the windsheild touches the adheasive bead you have to cut it to remove the windshield. You need the lower rubber blocks to support the glass (it will slide down over a couple of weeks without the rubber blocks). Convertibles are notorious for off square windshield frames and a test fit is more important and sometimes you have to trim the rubber support blocks to center the windshield. NOTE: 3M includes new rubber blocks in the bead box, BUT sometimes they get lost so check the box if you use the 3M bead.

Some use the flexible urethane in a caulk tube. It's very soft and tricky to control and is intended for new cars with very precise, and small, gaps. I've never experimented with it myself.

[terribleted]

I also prefer bead on these cars rather than tube urethane. And MUST use the blocks either way.

[plrgpr]

Thanks for all the comments and tips! Where would the rest of us be without you guys with the experience and expertise willing to share your knowledge and helping us to avoid the pitfalls you’ve already been through?

[terribleted]

Thanks for all the comments and tips! Where would the rest of us be without you guys with the experience and expertise willing to share your knowledge and helping us to avoid the pitfalls you’ve already been through?

You would be learning more things the hard way like many of us did:)