‘63 Spyder Convertible

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Beers
Posts: 26
Joined: Sun Jun 07, 2020 5:38 pm
Location: SF Bay Area, CA

Re: ‘63 Spyder Convertible

Post by Beers »

I rebuilt the steering box, didn’t get a chance to test it much and play with the pitman adjuster screw, but figured with all of the new components the box is now the weak link on a previously worn out steering system and would deteriorate even more.

Picked up the rebuild kit from Clark’s, the races looked good so ordered the one without them. Always nice to clean up a crud covered piece and make it look good and perform to specs again. Surfaces weren’t perfect but overall good shape and serviceable with no pitting or heavy marking.

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1963 Monza Spyder convertible

Beers
Posts: 26
Joined: Sun Jun 07, 2020 5:38 pm
Location: SF Bay Area, CA

Re: ‘63 Spyder Convertible

Post by Beers »

Suspension and steering and box all in now. For the steering box, I tried this lube. I know a lot of people will mix together grease and STP for example, but this 00 stuff seems a really nice overall consistency. Comes out thick like molasses or honey in the cold, thick but still will flow a little. Anyone have long-term use experience with this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018 ... UTF8&psc=1


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1963 Monza Spyder convertible

Beers
Posts: 26
Joined: Sun Jun 07, 2020 5:38 pm
Location: SF Bay Area, CA

Re: ‘63 Spyder Convertible

Post by Beers »

Wondered why the turn indicator felt so loose, a PO had went with the rare “pot metal random rivet flex option” on the directional ring. And it sure did flex lol

Replaced it with the Clark’s one, works great now.

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Also rebuilt the master cylinder, wanted to keep the original screw top vs. the rebuilt clip style

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Honed up totally fine with a small two blade brake hone.

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Also, something to note on the steering box rebuild the kit from Clark’s. The pitman shaft bushing (the longer one, not the cover bushing) needed to be reamed once in place to fit the shaft, the brake hone made quick work of it.
1963 Monza Spyder convertible

Beers
Posts: 26
Joined: Sun Jun 07, 2020 5:38 pm
Location: SF Bay Area, CA

Re: ‘63 Spyder Convertible

Post by Beers »

The piston was solid with crud, doubt this master had ever been touched.

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I bought a new line set to replace the corroded front lines, so just used this previous line to bench bleed the rebuild.

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Fresh master installed. The entire trunk was painted with gray primer, I imagine over some surface rust (trunk is solid otherwise). Eventually I’ll redo the trunk but wanted to spray the splatter paint behind it since it was out and can just wrap over it later.


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1963 Monza Spyder convertible

Beers
Posts: 26
Joined: Sun Jun 07, 2020 5:38 pm
Location: SF Bay Area, CA

Re: ‘63 Spyder Convertible

Post by Beers »

Pulled out the rear axles to see how the bearings felt. Nice and smooth, no roughness or any grinding. Looks like the grease is still really wet just from the bits that were outside the seal. I used a needle on the grease gun to try and add a little more grease under the seal and it would push out the old grease pretty quick and that looked good so I’m thinking both bearings are at least in grease and serviceable. I’ll put some miles on this once I get the car up and running well and keep an eye on these to see if they still feel good. U-joints also looked in good shape.

Should I assume Bower bearing in the last photo (drivers side, with the blue seal) is a replacement?

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1963 Monza Spyder convertible

Beers
Posts: 26
Joined: Sun Jun 07, 2020 5:38 pm
Location: SF Bay Area, CA

Re: ‘63 Spyder Convertible

Post by Beers »

Finished up the front end alignment. I hadn’t done an alignment myself before other than setting toe in with string, but got the alignment book by Fred Johnson that Clark’s sells. It’s a good read, and walks you through making the alignment tools so gave it a shot. Here’s the tools, it is surprisingly easy to do.

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Also, tried to rebuild the power top pump. It’s pretty straight forward but this one was very corroded, and no matter how much I cleaned it up I couldn’t get even get the armature to move. Ended up getting a new pump motor. The original line was cracked at one of the fittings so had to replace it.

Both original cylinders still worked, but one has a little seepage at the top so it may be on borrowed time. The power top now works again, but the frame is out of alignment so it binds at a couple spots both going up and coming down. Will sort that out when I replace the top (going back to the original white).

Bled the new pump and lines, and since the cylinders were long empty used transmission fluid instead of the original brake fluid.


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1963 Monza Spyder convertible

Beers
Posts: 26
Joined: Sun Jun 07, 2020 5:38 pm
Location: SF Bay Area, CA

Re: ‘63 Spyder Convertible

Post by Beers »

As I move to cleaning up the rear underbody and rebuilding the rear suspension, I’m also thinking about swapping out the ‘64 transaxle for a ‘63 trans/diff as part of the restoration (to make the whole power train match the car, since I still have the original block). Will also return the car to the original 3.55 ratio from the current 3.27 in the 64 rear end.

While it’s still in the car, is there any way to tell if a bellhousing (and the internals like the flywheel/pressure plate) is an early ‘60-63 style or the later ‘64-69 style?

This may be a dumb question, but won’t either style of bellhousing/pressure plate/flywheel work with the other style as long as the input shaft matches the trans and diff?
1963 Monza Spyder convertible

joelsplace
Posts: 1026
Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 12:51 pm
Location: Northlake, TX

Re: ‘63 Spyder Convertible

Post by joelsplace »

The bell housing is dependent on the crankshaft, nothing to do with the clutch.
The clutch package difference is in the flywheel, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pivot ball.
114 Corvairs, 5 Ultravans and counting
Northlake, TX

Beers
Posts: 26
Joined: Sun Jun 07, 2020 5:38 pm
Location: SF Bay Area, CA

Re: ‘63 Spyder Convertible

Post by Beers »

Thanks Joel. So as long as all the matching components are used in the clutch pack, no problem swapping in a 63 differential for the 64. Certainly need to make sure I don’t forget to swap over the pivot ball to match the pack.

And I can either leave in the 64 4 speed as is, or swap in 62-63 4 speed as long as I use the right input shaft and seal, right?
1963 Monza Spyder convertible

joelsplace
Posts: 1026
Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 12:51 pm
Location: Northlake, TX

Re: ‘63 Spyder Convertible

Post by joelsplace »

Yes the input shaft and seal follow the transmission. The 63 and earlier are 12 spline and the 64-65 are 14 spline with a larger diameter at the seal.
114 Corvairs, 5 Ultravans and counting
Northlake, TX

Beers
Posts: 26
Joined: Sun Jun 07, 2020 5:38 pm
Location: SF Bay Area, CA

Re: ‘63 Spyder Convertible

Post by Beers »

Perfect, thanks Joel.
1963 Monza Spyder convertible

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