Our First Corvair

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perfectreign
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Our First Corvair

Post by perfectreign »

Going to start a build thread here. Last week, after some months of searching, my 17-year old son and I bought a non running 1965 Corsa coupe. The first posts and some pics are here.

viewtopic.php?f=80&t=13736&p=95126



The PO towed it to my garage and we started trying to see what we had.


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Frame and interior were good with the seller telling me it wasn't running.


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The car is a 65 Corsa...


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...but it has a 64 motor


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So, today we began the work of seeing what's what. The brakes and shocks are new.

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Also, the engine was changed from using a generator to a alternator . Unfortunately, it doesn't really work.

Compression test also shows low numbers. In addition, leaving the battery hooked up for more than a day drains it.

So, we're tearing it down to get at the piston rings and see what the heads are doing. Also going to venture to California Corvairs to get a new wiring harness. The existing one is spliced beyond recognition. Unfortunately, CC isn't open Sunday or Monday. Stay tuned.
Last edited by perfectreign on Sun Dec 17, 2017 12:13 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Jerry Whitt
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Re: Our First Corvair

Post by Jerry Whitt »

The 1965 models came with alternators, not generators.

You noted compression shows low numbers. Proper procedure before tear down is a leak down test. In this test air pressure is put through the spark plug hole on each cylinder, with the piston on the compression stroke. near top dead center. A leak down gauge is used. If the leak test indicates more than about 20 percent, listening to the exhaust, intake or oil filler will help diagnose where the leakage actually is. Once the leak is determined, then
a tear down, if needed, is completed.

Doing a tear down before confirming the problem can be a big waste of time, energy and money. Do a proper diagnosis first.

Another test involves the suspected electrical leakage. A test of the battery, called a 3 minute charge test should be completed. In this test hook up a battery charger that can produce at least 40 amps. Attach a volt meter to the terminals of the battery. Turn on and watch the voltage. If the voltage goes beyond 14.4 volts, wait for about 3 minutes. Check the voltage again. If the voltage is still more than 14.4, you have a battery that is sulfated.
In effect, the lead peroxide on the battery plates has been sulfated, meaning, lead sulfate, rather than lead peroxide, and it will not accept a charge at normal alternator voltage.
Jerry Whitt
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65 Monza, purchased new
65 Corsa convertible
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bbodie52
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Re: Our First Corvair

Post by bbodie52 »

:goodpost:

A cylinder leak down test is a more advanced diagnostic procedure, and little more difficult to perform, because it requires some fabricated plumbing or a special test instrument, and a large capacity air compressor. Each cylinder to be tested is set at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke (both valves closed). External air pressure is applied through the spark plug hole, and the percentage of leakage is evaluated. The source of the leakage (intake valve, exhaust valve, cylinder head gasket, or piston/cylinder seal) can be determined using an automotive stethoscope to listen for the leakage path (intake manifold, exhaust manifold, or crankcase). This test is performed on each cylinder, to determine the mechanical seal and condition of each cylinder. A video demonstration of this process (in this case, using a Volkswagen engine) is shown below.



There are many leak down testers available on Amazon.com. An example is shown below...

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OTC 5609 Cylinder Leakage Tester Kit

4½ Stars out of 5 with 420 customer reviews | 39 answered questions

Price: $66.87 & FREE Shipping.

Prices ranged from $33.54 to $99.99 with 10 LEAK DOWN units listed.

:link: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_st_revie ... eview-rank

A decent mechanic's stethoscope can be had for about $15.00...

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Also helps to locate noisy idler bearings, blower bearings, etc.

OF COURSE, A PURCHASE OR A RENTAL WILL DO YOU NO GOOD IF YOU DON'T HAVE ACCESS TO A DECENT AIR COMPRESSOR WITH ADEQUATE CAPACITY.

Also, what clues did you rely on to determine that the installed engine is a 1964 engine. A 1964 engine would normally have a cast magnesium cooling fan. A 110 hp 164 CI 1964 engine should be fitted with a harmonic balancer on the crankshaft, a 95 hp a 1964 engine would have a solid cast crankshaft pulley. A 145 CI 1963 or earlier engine would have a steel cooling fan (as seen on your engine) and a stamped steel (riveted) crankshaft pulley.

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As mentioned in your earlier post viewtopic.php?f=80&t=13736&p=95076&hili ... ead#p95076 a serial number with the suffix code "YN" is inconclusive, as it was found on a wide range of engines from 1961-1964.

T0501YN
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T = Tonawanda, New York (GM Tonawanda Engine Plant)
http://media.gm.com/media/us/en/gm/comp ... wanda.html
0501 = Engine manufacturing date (month and date). May 1st.

YN
  • 1961 98 hp 145 CID Manual Transmission 9:1 Compression Ratio (Corvair 500/700/900 Monza)
  • 1962 102 hp 145 CID Manual Transmission 9:1 CR (No PCV system — Road Draft Tube) (Corvair 500/700/900 Monza)
  • 1963 102 hp 145 CID Manual Transmission 9:1 CR (PCV system w/PCV Valve) (Corvair 500/700/900 Monza)
  • 1964 110 hp 164 CID Manual Transmission 9:1 CR (PCV system w/Fixed Orifice) (Corvair 500/700/900 Monza)
The cylinder head casting numbers wold be more certaain as to the model year and configuration of the engine.

Cylinder heads have a casting number on the end of the head, as shown in the example below...
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Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible
perfectreign
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Re: Our First Corvair

Post by perfectreign »

Thank you each. The alternator looks like something from the 80s and has no identification on it. There is a custom mounting bracket for it also. We’ll do comprehensive tests over the next few days.


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Jerry Whitt
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Re: Our First Corvair

Post by Jerry Whitt »

The alternator in you picture has a plug on the top. That indicates it is an "integral unit" meaning it has a voltage regulator built inside.

The picture also shows a voltage regulator near the drivers side rear fender well. These items are NOT workable in the same system. The pictures are not clear enough to make out the wiring. It is possible the voltage regulator is just sitting there with no wires. (that might be a good sign)
Jerry Whitt
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65 Monza, purchased new
65 Corsa convertible
perfectreign
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Our First Corvair

Post by perfectreign »

The regulator is not connected to anything.

I almost decided to give this up but will persist. Need to figure out if i want to find a decent 110 or 140 engine - or if it would be better to do something like get another rear engine air cooled donor. Not many out there. OR get an A4 tdi engine and make it a Corvair TDI.

Grrr...

Here are some more pics:


Front drivers side next to wheel. Not sure what that is.

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Front passenger area, looking from the front i see some minor corrosion. Not bad.

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Need some new dash lights


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Thinking i might buy a local car with a good engine and strip it out.


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Apittslife
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Re: Our First Corvair

Post by Apittslife »

Well, you will have to Find a Turbo engine if you wish to replace the one that is missing. Putting the turbo parts on a NON-Turbo engine, would most likely be a bad Idea. But you can certainly just go with a 110 or 140 engine. I am new to corvairs as well, I have a 66 corsa turbo, & plan to put the original engine back in the car. I was lucky to get it with the car. Good luck with your project.
perfectreign
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Re: Our First Corvair

Post by perfectreign »

Thank you! Now to find a donor engine. Seems like all the local engines worth anything have been transplanted into dune buggys. People love to take these up into the desert and fly through the sand.
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Image2006 Chevy Avalanche WBH LS

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perfectreign
Posts: 68
Joined: Wed Jun 21, 2017 12:53 pm
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Re: Our First Corvair

Post by perfectreign »

Apparently my dog likes the car. Image


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