Early Model rear suspension rebuild
Early Model rear suspension rebuild
So I have not posted in a while, I have completed my rear suspension rebuild and it has gone as plan for the most part. Some people suggested dropping the power plant with the rear suspension as a complete unit. That might be the correct direction but I decided to do it seperate and it took some help to bolt it back up. I have included some picture below.
jdflight
61Monza aka Wilma
61Monza aka Wilma
Re: Early Model rear suspension rebuild
Very nice job
64 Monza Convertible
61 Loadside
66 Mustang Fastback
54 ea BMW motorcycles
1 TR6 Special Competition Triumph
32d Free Mason, Scottish Rite Mason
61 Loadside
66 Mustang Fastback
54 ea BMW motorcycles
1 TR6 Special Competition Triumph
32d Free Mason, Scottish Rite Mason
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Re: Early Model rear suspension rebuild
Well you've done some fantastic looking work.
64Powerglide, Jeff Phillips
Kalamazoo, Mi..
Kalamazoo, Mi..
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Re: Early Model rear suspension rebuild
Did you get the brakes sorted out?
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
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Located in Snellville, Georgia
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/
Located in Snellville, Georgia
Re: Early Model rear suspension rebuild
No I have not gotten them sorted out. Bleed the brakes again and can't seem to get all the air out of the system. I am starting to think I have a air leak somewhere, I have gone threw 2 bottles of brake fluid. I can hear the brakes actuating but pedal not firm enough.
jdflight
61Monza aka Wilma
61Monza aka Wilma
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Re: Early Model rear suspension rebuild
Are you positive the reservoir it not getting empty during your bleeding? if it does it will induce new air into the system. I never let them get more than 1/2 empty during this process. Still using the pressure bleeder? I would find a friend to push the pedal and try manual bleeding. If the situation continues I would try a new master cylinder as long as there are no leaks anywhere in the system. This is the only place that air can get into the lines of the sealed system.
Manual process I use is. Helper push pedal...loosen bleeder thru a clear hose into a clear container and observe for bubbles as the fluid runs/squirts out. Close bleeder, helper then releases pedal wait a sec for master cylinder to catch up and then repeat process until no air is seen. Do not open the bleeder a long way only just enough for fluid to flow and close immediately as the flow lessens or stops (opening too far and waiting too long can sometime induce air right there at the wheel cylinder and that can drive you nuts.
Manual process I use is. Helper push pedal...loosen bleeder thru a clear hose into a clear container and observe for bubbles as the fluid runs/squirts out. Close bleeder, helper then releases pedal wait a sec for master cylinder to catch up and then repeat process until no air is seen. Do not open the bleeder a long way only just enough for fluid to flow and close immediately as the flow lessens or stops (opening too far and waiting too long can sometime induce air right there at the wheel cylinder and that can drive you nuts.
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/
Located in Snellville, Georgia
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/
Located in Snellville, Georgia
Re: Early Model rear suspension rebuild
Thanks I was wondering if that is what happening since it seems like a lot of air.
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Sent from my iPhone using Corvair Forum mobile app
jdflight
61Monza aka Wilma
61Monza aka Wilma
Re: Early Model rear suspension rebuild
I like to have some fluid in the clear catch bottle. Extend the catch hose into the fluid. If I Don't close the bleeder quick enough or the helper takes his foot off the pedal the hose will only suck fluid back in. Not air. As you bleed, you will see any air as bubbles in the catch bottle fluid. Works for me.
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Sent from my SM-G930V using Corvair Forum mobile app
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Re: Early Model rear suspension rebuild
Exactly this helps but can still suck that bubble that just came out back in:)dave t wrote: ↑Tue Oct 17, 2017 5:09 pm I like to have some fluid in the clear catch bottle. Extend the catch hose into the fluid. If I Don't close the bleeder quick enough or the helper takes his foot off the pedal the hose will only suck fluid back in. Not air. As you bleed, you will see any air as bubbles in the catch bottle fluid. Works for me.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Corvair Forum mobile app
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/
Located in Snellville, Georgia
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/
Located in Snellville, Georgia
Re: Early Model rear suspension rebuild
Well never could get the brake pedal correct, so decided to rebuild the master cylinder. Since I am doing that I decided to replace the brake lines that I have not replaced before. I was wondering has any replaced them without removing the gas tank.
jdflight
61Monza aka Wilma
61Monza aka Wilma
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Re: Early Model rear suspension rebuild
The early model left front can be for sure (if shaped like the original)...it can be corkscrewed into place. The right front I can not remember if there is a good way without the tank out.
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/
Located in Snellville, Georgia
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/
Located in Snellville, Georgia
- toms73novass
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Re: Early Model rear suspension rebuild
If you want it in the stock location, you must remove the tank. The line is clipped in above the tank. It would have to be re routed it you do not want to remove the tank.
Re: Early Model rear suspension rebuild
Thanks Tom and Terribleted
Looks like it will be a longer project than expected. Might as well redo all the tank items while I am at it.
Looks like it will be a longer project than expected. Might as well redo all the tank items while I am at it.
jdflight
61Monza aka Wilma
61Monza aka Wilma
Re: Early Model rear suspension rebuild
Yeah, I'm with terribleted, the one line above the tank can be replaced without removing it. Years ago I did it and then, years later when I had to take the tank out, my new line was perfectly in place, except for it not being in the clip. I don't know if you will ever have success in bleeding the brakes until the pedal is hard. My '64 never had much of the late model modern car "hard pedal feel", after trying several times to do so. The brakes have always been mushy. Nice rear suspension rebuild. I tried to remove mine, but one bolt on the rust bucket just would not turn out. The red paint is interesting, it kind of looks like the underside of a race car.
1964 Monza convertible 110/PG