'64 Monza Barn Find

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jcuda94
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Mar 24, 2017 10:48 am

'64 Monza Barn Find

Post by jcuda94 »

Hey guys, made my first post to the forum and the initial post on my Monza in the introductions topic section. I made my way out to the farm and after sorting through a box of 200 keys and a little bit of a difficult haul I got her home.

Here's a link to the post: https://www.corvairforum.com/forum/view ... 13&t=12840

Decided to just make a project post to show my progress and document it throughout the entire process. Attached are some more pics I took after the first quick bath and I'l have some interior pics soon. I'm currently just giving the car a once-over and peaking into different areas to get an idea what I need to focus on and add to my checklist. Some time over the next week I will be looking over a post I found about reviving a dead Corvair.

Link to that post: https://www.corvairforum.com/forum/view ... 225&t=5030

I got into the car after washing and kinda just fidgeted with a few things. All the seals are pretty rough as expected. Found two rats/mouse nests under the driver and passenger seat. Vacuumed all the crap out from that but the rest of the interior was pretty solid. I'll be looking into further damage possibilities with wiring. These mice even had the rat poison packages in their nests so i'm sure they didn't hold back. Cleaned and oiled a few hinges including the rear seat back rest hinges. Starting to take pieces out of the engine bay for inspection and cleaning. I'm starting to find some evidence of molestation and I'll post those pictures as well a little later.

I'll Reply to the comments on my first post in the Introductions section but might end up routing everything over to this post. Feel free to make any comments or leave any tips or headers that you think will help. Thanks guys!
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'64 Corvair Monza
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lone star
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Aug 09, 2017 12:19 pm

Re: '64 Monza Barn Find

Post by lone star »

Looks good! How's the interior? Any updates?


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Gregory_Miller
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Re: '64 Monza Barn Find

Post by Gregory_Miller »

Make sure to remove the engine top cover and clean out all the engine cooling fins.. Mice love to live there too.
jcuda94
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Mar 24, 2017 10:48 am

Re: '64 Monza Barn Find

Post by jcuda94 »

Hard to believe I haven't posted in here since 2017. Since then I've done a handful of odds and ends things to the car but I'm going to try and keep this post as organized as possible so let's start with the replies.

@Gregory_Miller
I removed the fan shroud and found more nesting on the heads and got those all cleaned up and washed out. At some point I want to get in there and clean up all the casting.

@lone star
I the interior is pretty damn good to with the expected signs of aging. The headliner has a couple holes/tears where the rods suspends the vinyl and the vinyl probably just shrunk. The chrome finished plastic moldings have lost the majority of their chrome finish (i.e. monza emblem/ornament on the door panel, trim around door arm rest). All the rubber seals are nice and gooey. Radio works but the speaker is trashed. Carpet is good overall. All mechanical aspects inside work, minus the fuel gauge. I've explored that a few times then remind myself to stay on task with what I already have disassembled. Seats are pretty good minus a few tears where the tubing runs through. I'd like to switch all interior from the vinyl to some quality leather. Interior paint is in damn good shape. Kick plates could use some loving.

Here's a quick overview of what things I've done over the years.

- Deep clean of the engine bay
- Rebuilt carbs
- Replaced fuel tank and sending unit
- Fabricated all new fuel lines
- Overhauled brake system at the hubs only
- Filled tranny and diff (both were empty)
- small tune-up (includes several aspects)
- Got it running and moving
- Replaced pushrod tube o-rings

I'm sure I'm forgetting plenty of thigs and left out a bunch of little things. Also, as mentioned before this is my first corvair and even first carbureted vehicle so there has been one hell of a learning curve. Many things were done out of the typical order and other steps had to be repeated. I'll post more where I break down each of these things I've done. Please please please don't hold back any criticism or pointers. In the end it's all helpful!

Also, just wanted to give a big thank you to all of you who have helped me with either PMs or detailed posts over the years, couldn't have done any of it without y'all!
'64 Corvair Monza
jcuda94
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Mar 24, 2017 10:48 am

Re: '64 Monza Barn Find

Post by jcuda94 »

Here is some more info I have found out over the years. However there are so many things that contradict each other I'm still not 100% what year everything is from. Here's what I have directly in my living word doc.

Body:
Year = 1964
Engine:
Year = 1965? (Engine is a swap?, 110hp Manual)
Transmission:
Powerglide Auto - 2 spd
Year = 1964? Presumed to be the original
Number on heads:3878566
Year = 1965-67, HP = 110, Notes = No Smog
Number on block: T0309RD
T = Tonawanda, New York (GM Tonawanda Engine Plant)
0309 = Engine Manufacturing Date of March 9th
RD = (Year = 1965-68, Horsepower = 110, Transmission = Manual, Application = Blank on Chart*)

VIN:40527W199512
4 = 1964 (First Symbol - Year)
05 = Corvair 500 Series (6-cyl) (Second & Third Symbol - Series)
27 = 2dr Sedan(Fourth & Fifth Symbol - Body Style)
W = Willow Run, Michigan(Alpha Letter - Production Plant)
199512 = 995,512th unit (Last Six Symbols - Production Sequence - Started at 100001)

Distributor Info./Number:
Delco-Remy
1110319 6B21
Year = 64-68, Model = All 110 HP, Dist. # = 1110319, Timing before TDC at Idle = 14°@ 500rpm
Centrifugal Advance
Full Advance = 20°@ 4800rpm, Advance Start = 0°@ 800rpm
Vacuum Advance
Full Advance = 24°@ 15”, Advance Starts = 0°@ 7”

Body Tag:
05A (05 = May, A = First Week)
STYLE 64 0927 = 1964 /
WR 70850 BODY
TRIM 712 =
This 3 digit code represents the interior color and seat type.
900 PAINT (900 - Tuxedo Black Lucite, Code - 88 Dulux Code - 93-005)
W2MP5W E
BODY BY FISHER

Transmission Code: To Be Determined when I drop everything
(Located on top of the case in the rear at 11 o’clock)

I'm not exactly sure why the engine year doesn't line up but this is what I've come up with for possibilities.
1. Engine blew up and needed replaced.
2. There is some damage to the rear bumper and signs of body work behind that. Could have been in an accident and motor needed replaced?
3. To play even further off of theory #2, I acquired this car as a barn find during an auction at my grandfathers after he passed. I was told by my grandma that he got the car from a client he had sold a tractor to when the client couldn't stay up on his payments (my GPa was a John Deere dealer). I have no idea what the status was of the car when my GPa got it, I assume running. My theory is the client wrecked the car, couldn't pay to have it fixed, at some point maybe decided to part it out and got rid of the engine, then when he began to lapse on his Tractor payments he acquired an engine for a quick swap, did some quick body work, wired up a few things (there's wire nuts all over the back and I believe an aftermarket voltage regulator), then gave the car to my GPa to pay off the tractor. Again, that's a huge farsighted theory, lol.

Regardless, these mismatching components have made this project one hell of an ordeal since I've had no previous knowledge of corvairs, let alone carbureted vehicle prior to this.

Below are some pics of the different serial numbers and tags
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'64 Corvair Monza
jcuda94
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Mar 24, 2017 10:48 am

Re: '64 Monza Barn Find

Post by jcuda94 »

Here is a more in depth post of where the she currently sits and what I've done on a more specific level. As of now she runs and drives, just not very well. Every time I would sync the carbs I seemed to find a new post telling me to look into something different to get her running proper which would send me down a new rabbit hole.

I rebuilt the carbs then after cleaning the little stone filters a few times I realized the problem was up stream. I went all the way to the source and replaced the fuel tank and sending unit. After that I fabricated new fuel lines. I still wasn't getting any fuel to the carbs so I pulled the fuel pump and replaced that. I then added an inline filter.

After that I moved on to the ignition system which went from basic to more in depth. I replaced the completely corroded battery, plugs and wires, then I gave the distributor a quick rebuild. Gave her a quick oil change and after some convincing and swearing she fired up and quickly died. After multiple restarts I did some reading.

This lead me to syncing the carbs. After that she was still wanting to die so I check compression. I can't remember what my findings were but a few cylinders were quite a bit off. This pushed me to adjust valve lash which I still need to revisit since I ordered a scope so I can hear better. While I was down there I traced a huge oily mess to the pushrod tubes so I cleaned up everything and replaced the orings. Since doing these I haven't checked compression again but she's running much better, but still not quite right.

I began to get stir crazy and needed to see this thing move so I checked the tranny and diff and both were dry so I filled them up per the procedures y'all had posted and what's mentioned in the manuals. I somehow convinced myself to pump the breaks, literally and figuratively, and decided I should give the brakes a once over. Almost forgot I had been relying on the ebrake every time I rolled it around. Ending up overhauling the brakes systems at all 4 hubs. Turned the drums, new pads, new hardware, wire wheeled and painted all small components and reassembled. Then I took here out for a spin.

She's pretty slow going but I attribute that partially to it not being tuned right. I also noticed that when I would take a good turn (a full 90 degree turn on to a new street or driveway) the tranny would start to slip and the motor would rev up then grab intermittently or once I would come out of the turn. It would also do this when cruising up a good angled hill. It would grab better at heavier throttle input up the hills but not in the turns. I assume this is to improper fluid levels in the trans or since the torque converter has never probably had the chance to really fill up properly since driving events are so few and far between. I probably also didn't get all the way up to proper temps in the PG when topping off fluids.

Since these I have ordered parts to address the PG leaking when she sits for a week or so and finding gear oil on the ground too. Looking back, it should have been obvious there was a reason the PG and Diff were bone dry. I've ordered rebuild kits from clark's for the diff. Next thing I need to do is get this thing lifted up and just drop the whole setup so I can really tear into the diff and give the PG the attention she needs.

Again, there are plenty of thing i'm leaving out for each one of these repairs and I plan on posting more in depth posts with each process and the pics I took when I went through them.

Thanks for reading!
'64 Corvair Monza
66vairguy
Posts: 4528
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 3:44 pm

Re: '64 Monza Barn Find

Post by 66vairguy »

jcuda94 wrote: Thu Mar 16, 2023 2:29 pm Here is a more in depth post of where the she currently sits and what I've done on a more specific level. As of now she runs and drives, just not very well. Every time I would sync the carbs I seemed to find a new post telling me to look into something different to get her running proper which would send me down a new rabbit hole.

I rebuilt the carbs then after cleaning the little stone filters a few times I realized the problem was up stream. I went all the way to the source and replaced the fuel tank and sending unit. After that I fabricated new fuel lines. I still wasn't getting any fuel to the carbs so I pulled the fuel pump and replaced that. I then added an inline filter.

After that I moved on to the ignition system which went from basic to more in depth. I replaced the completely corroded battery, plugs and wires, then I gave the distributor a quick rebuild. Gave her a quick oil change and after some convincing and swearing she fired up and quickly died. After multiple restarts I did some reading.

This lead me to syncing the carbs. After that she was still wanting to die so I check compression. I can't remember what my findings were but a few cylinders were quite a bit off. This pushed me to adjust valve lash which I still need to revisit since I ordered a scope so I can hear better. While I was down there I traced a huge oily mess to the pushrod tubes so I cleaned up everything and replaced the orings. Since doing these I haven't checked compression again but she's running much better, but still not quite right.

I began to get stir crazy and needed to see this thing move so I checked the tranny and diff and both were dry so I filled them up per the procedures y'all had posted and what's mentioned in the manuals. I somehow convinced myself to pump the breaks, literally and figuratively, and decided I should give the brakes a once over. Almost forgot I had been relying on the ebrake every time I rolled it around. Ending up overhauling the brakes systems at all 4 hubs. Turned the drums, new pads, new hardware, wire wheeled and painted all small components and reassembled. Then I took here out for a spin.

She's pretty slow going but I attribute that partially to it not being tuned right. I also noticed that when I would take a good turn (a full 90 degree turn on to a new street or driveway) the tranny would start to slip and the motor would rev up then grab intermittently or once I would come out of the turn. It would also do this when cruising up a good angled hill. It would grab better at heavier throttle input up the hills but not in the turns. I assume this is to improper fluid levels in the trans or since the torque converter has never probably had the chance to really fill up properly since driving events are so few and far between. I probably also didn't get all the way up to proper temps in the PG when topping off fluids.

Since these I have ordered parts to address the PG leaking when she sits for a week or so and finding gear oil on the ground too. Looking back, it should have been obvious there was a reason the PG and Diff were bone dry. I've ordered rebuild kits from clark's for the diff. Next thing I need to do is get this thing lifted up and just drop the whole setup so I can really tear into the diff and give the PG the attention she needs.

Again, there are plenty of thing i'm leaving out for each one of these repairs and I plan on posting more in depth posts with each process and the pics I took when I went through them.

Thanks for reading!
You are certainly getting a Corvair education. I've had a few projects like yours, but I knew what I was getting into. Keeps me off the streets - LOL.

BTW -- Make sure PG Dexon fluid isn't getting into the differential. Yes the torque converter has to fill up, I usually wait until the engine is warmed up, then put it in "R" and "D" then back to neutral and with the engine idling - check the fluid level.

The differential side bearing adjusters that the axle shafts go in have in inner seal the axle yoke fits through that can leak. There is also an "O" ring that goes around the adjuster to seal it when it's screwed into the differential case. Hopefully they aren't leaking. If you ever have to replace the bearing adjuster "O" ring you have to get it to "relax" after screwing in the adjuster by moving the adjuster to it's correct position, then back off a quarter turn and re-tighten --- repeat a few times. This allows the "O" ring to relax and seal.

Good luck with the car.
jcuda94
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Mar 24, 2017 10:48 am

Re: '64 Monza Barn Find

Post by jcuda94 »

Thanks @66vairguy. I've decided to wait on drive train and I'm tackling some electrical while I have it all together.

Looking over the harness, it's pretty intact but definitely brittle and could use some attention. On top of that, I think I need to do some work adding some grounds and figuring out where some disconnected wires go.

I have a random wore coming up through the engine shroud near cylinder 6 that looks like it was chewed through by rats. I also have an area loaded with butt connectors I want to sort out and solder then shrink wrap... or if I get a new harness just replace.

What do yall think I should do? Also. 2hat the hell is this red clothe wrapped wire? Pics to come shortly.
'64 Corvair Monza
66vairguy
Posts: 4528
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 3:44 pm

Re: '64 Monza Barn Find

Post by 66vairguy »

The engine harness tends to fail first due to heat and oil. If the plastic insulation is brittle, it is time to replace the engine harness.

The problem I run into is "creative" wiring folks add for various reasons without documentation. Keep in mind the EM Spyder/turbo car wiring is poorly documented. Hopefully you car has always been a Monza with a Monza engine.

The engine harness plugs into a connector near the bulkhead. On an EM I worked on the new engine harness could not be plugged into the beat up and corroded main harness connector. Then you need the main harness, although one club member I helped didn't want to replace the main harness, so I made up a new main bulkhead connector (new contacts and 1 foot wires) that the owner spliced into the main harness (soldered and heat shrink connections). Coat the connectors with some di-electric grease and they will go together easier and it reduces corrosion of the metal contacts.
jcuda94
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Mar 24, 2017 10:48 am

Re: '64 Monza Barn Find

Post by jcuda94 »

Here's some pics of the engine bay.

If anyone see's any flags (other than my obvious fire hazard with the fuel filter) please point it out.
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'64 Corvair Monza
66vairguy
Posts: 4528
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 3:44 pm

Re: '64 Monza Barn Find

Post by 66vairguy »

Yes the "plastic" fuel filter should be replaced with a metal can at a minimum until you can get hard metal fuel lines installed in the engine compartment. The Clark's bent fuel lines fit, but their flares are not that good. Nothing beats the old automated machine tube flares. The Clark's fuel lines are obviously flared with a basic hand tool. I usually "seat" them with a snug turn on the nut, then I remove the line and install the copper flare washers to get a good seal. Otherwise about half of the lines I've installed "weep" gasoline.

Last month a buddy with an old truck he bought had me over to look at it. I said the "plastic" fuel filter laying on the intake manifold had to go. He grabbed it and it BURST open in his hand. Fortunately the engine was cold!
jcuda94
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Mar 24, 2017 10:48 am

Re: '64 Monza Barn Find

Post by jcuda94 »

Any ideas what that red wire would be?
'64 Corvair Monza
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